2 wires or 1?

ekah

Senior VIP Member
398
3
hawaii
i have 2 amps 1 for sub and 1 for 4 channel

im using a 5 gauge for my sub and 8 gauge to my 4 channel.

was wondering if its better to do this 2 separate wires to run to my battery under the hood or 1 0 gauge wire to battery and then split it to each amp.

if the 0 gauge way which brand is best for 0 gauge and if i do run 1 wire do i need additional things like distribution blocks or the ones with fuses etc.

 
I too am running a mono amp and a 4 ch amp. So yes you will need a distrib block, and fuses as well.

So here's the thing about amps and its' power/ground terminals: buy the biggest wire it will accept. Reason why is because you don't wanna "choke" your new system and might/will create issues/problems down the road.

What I did with my amps is my monoblock is a pretty lengthly amp, accepts 1/0 gauge power/ground wire. I ran that. My 4 ch accepts 4 gauge for both power/ground. And again I did that. Next I had to find a distrib block that has 2 inputs of 1/0 and between 2-4 4 gauge inputs. This is exactly what you need to do.

For my power to battery, I "accidently" used 2 gauge welding wire, neg as well. Yeah I know how do I "accidently" use 2 gauge because the factory wire was exactly 2 gauge...I just replaced it with the same gauge. I got some 1/0 gauge tho so that's another poject I will change out next year/summer.

Hope this helps...

 
whats 2 gauge welding wire?

so find a distribute block that can support 0 and 2-4 gauge

upgrade the power to distribution block to 0 then run it then split to mono amp 0 and split 4 gauge to 4 channel.

this is what youre implying right? could you give some recommendations on dist block and gauge wires like skyhigh or stinger? any links would help to like amazon..

the dist block does it need to have the one that uses the fuse? or just need the dist block without?

 
All distrib blocks come fused. You just gotta supply the fuses for it. There's a few diff styles tho. Small ones like the ones in your vehicle fuseblock, ANL type "waffle" fuse, and bussmann type fuse.

Many people like diff brands of amp kits. I can suggest knukoncepts for amp kits. Distrib blocks I got mine off ebay because I had a hard time finding the right one. Going to the store and buying one wasn't an option for me.

Welding wire is mainly used for upgrading the big 3: (pos)battery to alt, (neg) engine ground, (neg) battery ground. I highly suggest this if your adding anything audio. Plus, it won't put much strain on your stereo and lights won't dim.

 
i honestly thought you could use any power wire to use for the big 3 didnt know there was a difference between the wire you use for that and the one you used for the amps. good thing you said this or i wouldve used regualar gauge wire to do the big 3

 
You prob could but since welding wire is made to take a little bit more heat than reg power wire, I would suggest it. Plus, under the hood and if your out and about with your car all day, it gets pretty dam hot under there.

 
Almost forgot to add. Add an inline fuse between the battery and your amp. In other words, say like 5-6 feet from your battery pos have an inline fuse there, and then hook up the rest of the pos wire to your amp.

 
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KNF-60-Gauge-Distirbution-Block/dp/B00F6K1256/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Really nice distribution block, use one side to feed power to your amps and use the other side for your amp grounds. Four terminals on this will fit 2/0 welding wire and two will fit 4 gauge wire. Little pricey but will probably be the only distribution block you will need to buy.

https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Installation-Wiring/dp/B008UL19ME/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1483012782&sr=1-11&keywords=knukonceptz

Amp wiring kit. Even comes with a two amp distribution block so you wouldn't have to buy the one above. Looks like a decent kit, one good thing is the wire is OFC and not CCA.

Personally I would keep my inline fuse right around 18 inches from the battery post, not 5 or 6 feet.

 
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KNF-60-Gauge-Distirbution-Block/dp/B00F6K1256/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8Really nice distribution block, use one side to feed power to your amps and use the other side for your amp grounds. Four terminals on this will fit 2/0 welding wire and two will fit 4 gauge wire. Little pricey but will probably be the only distribution block you will need to buy.

https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Installation-Wiring/dp/B008UL19ME/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1483012782&sr=1-11&keywords=knukonceptz

Amp wiring kit. Even comes with a two amp distribution block so you wouldn't have to buy the one above. Looks like a decent kit, one good thing is the wire is OFC and not CCA.

Personally I would keep my inline fuse right around 18 inches from the battery post, not 5 or 6 feet.
I was giving an example, thank you. Btw, my fuse is about 3-4 feet from my battery.

 
18 inches so maybe right when the wire gets through the firewall install there and then continue running wire along to the back of the car and install distribution blocks there?

 
The standard is 18" to fuse from battery

Do not put the fuse after your firewall

That is one of the biggest problem areas for cutting into the wire

You can use a regular unfused distro block

Run 1/0awg back then run to each amp.

I like to leave a couple extra feet in back just in case I need to move something I have wire to move it

Don't put 1/0awg into the amp if it only fits 4awg

Ground both amps in the same spot

Grind the paint down to bare metal

 
i have 2 amps 1 for sub and 1 for 4 channelim using a 5 gauge for my sub and 8 gauge to my 4 channel.

was wondering if its better to do this 2 separate wires to run to my battery under the hood or 1 0 gauge wire to battery and then split it to each amp.

if the 0 gauge way which brand is best for 0 gauge and if i do run 1 wire do i need additional things like distribution blocks or the ones with fuses etc.
Redundant perhaps, but I have two amps and finally settled on a big two way distribution block from KnuKonceptz to split both 0AWG power and ground cables from my battery into two 4AWG power and grounds to both my amps. It's working wonderfully so far, and I have a big ole fuse on the 12v+ 0AWG from the battery ab out a foot away from the pos post on the battery, then fuses in the dist block also I think. KnuKonceptz also supplies non-fused links in their dist blocks if you don't want redundant fuses I suppose.

John Kuthe...

 
was wondering if its better to do this 2 separate wires to run to my battery under the hood or 1 0 gauge wire to battery and then split it to each amp.
There is no electrical advantage to running a single wire to a distribution block. It is mainly about neatness and personal preference.

All distrib blocks come fused.
Huh? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

There are unfused d-blocks everywhere.

i honestly thought you could use any power wire to use for the big 3 didnt know there was a difference between the wire you use for that and the one you used for the amps. good thing you said this or i wouldve used regualar gauge wire to do the big 3
And you'd be fine if you did that -- possibly better off. Just check the wire specs instead of trusting some random thing some random dude on CA said to do.

You prob could but since welding wire is made to take a little bit more heat than reg power wire, I would suggest it.
That's not universally true. Just look around.

Almost forgot to add. Add an inline fuse between the battery and your amp. In other words, say like 5-6 feet from your battery pos have an inline fuse there, and then hook up the rest of the pos wire to your amp.
I was giving an example, thank you. Btw, my fuse is about 3-4 feet from my battery.
It's a bad example.

18 inches so maybe right when the wire gets through the firewall install there and then continue running wire along to the back of the car and install distribution blocks there?
The standard is 18" to fuse from batteryDo not put the fuse after your firewall

That is one of the biggest problem areas for cutting into the wire
x999

Fusing after the firewall is almost pointless.

18" is often quoted as a "standard". There is no standard. The standard SHOULD be -- "as close as reasonably possible." 18" is ok in most cases, but if you can make it 12" do that. The point is just that you want as little wire unprotected as possible, and nothing rubbing against the wire over that length.

You can use a regular unfused distro block
Shouldn't do that if the wire changes size.

If you have 1/0 fust at 250A to a solid d-block and 8 to the amp you have a 250A fuse protecting an 8 awg wire. It won't protect it. If the 8 awg gets shorted it could melt and burn before the big fuse blows.

 
so i can use

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UL19ME/ref=asc_df_B008UL19ME4723099?smid=A1NLNJ4Y2QP8Z&tag=shopz0d-20&ascsubtag=shopzilla_mp_1121-20;14830875661262847608810080302008005&linkCode=df0&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B008UL19ME

then go to a d-block that they give me with it and split it later in the trunk? but i need to fuse around 18 inches from battery positive which would be under the hood. would there be any heat problems? like under my hood has intense heat etc?

i never heard of the above link only skyhigh and stinger.

ofc is good though from what i read.

could i use a d block for ground as well? or no?>

btw what sort of tool could i use to crimp a terminal ring to the 0 gauge wire? or any gauge in genereal? sometimes i use a rock and just smash it.. but im sure theres a tool outhere i could use thats easier lol any links would help

 
That amp kit will work. Use the inline fuse within 18 inches of the battery then run the wire to the fused distribution block in the back. Then you can run 4 or 8 gauge wire, out of distribution block, to your amps. There should be no problems with under hood heat, just keep all your wires up and away from any moving parts and your exhaust manifolds.

https://www.amazon.com/Bullz-Audio-BGDB048P-Ground-Distribution/dp/B00MCVP3NY/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00MCVP3NY&pd_rd_r=S014WHQ687XZSMN1PPBR&pd_rd_w=lVI2E&pd_rd_wg=uHGoQ&psc=1&refRID=S014WHQ687XZSMN1PPBR

Here is an example of a distribution block for your ground wires, 1/0 in with a couple spots for 4 gauge out.

A rock will work to crimp wires but you have to watch out for your fingers. lol

https://www.amazon.com/PENSON-CAYQK007010-Hydraulic-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B0114QC3OY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1483098658&sr=1-2&keywords=hydraulic+crimpers

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer-Crimper-Tool-Warranty/dp/B00E1UUVT0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1483098736&sr=1-1&keywords=hammer+crimpers

Couple different examples of wire crimpers.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

If I was in your situation, I would experiment with the wring for a day or two. If that didn't work, I would purchase an external amplifier. Run...
9
1K
I didn't read the article, but with those GM Bose systems; either fix what needs fixing, or rip out the entire thing and start from scratch with...
7
1K
Try placing the subs in the front seat, to see if the issue persists. Just for diagnostic purposes. It may be wiring, but the distortion may be...
2
952

About this thread

ekah

Senior VIP Member
Thread starter
ekah
Joined
Location
hawaii
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
15
Views
924
Last reply date
Last reply from
n2audio
20240518_170822.jpg

Dylan27

    May 18, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
20240517_190901.jpg

Dylan27

    May 18, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top