2 Channel Project

[konechiwa 10+ year member]

No, using those speakers would call for completely different designs.
They are full range drivers usually used in single driver loudspeakers, usually involving more complex enclosure design to extend the low frequency output of the driver. Because they are full range, a crossover is typically not needed (or if used is usually quite simple, just a BSC circuit or supertweeter on first order slopes).

I'd say stick to the basic MTM for now. After you build that successfully you'll almost certainly want to build more designs; then you can experiment with full range, three ways, horns or what not.

i'd love to do more- except i'll be going to college and will be using this as a stereo/HT setup (i will be adding a sub). Right now it's more of just a casual listener, so I don't want it to be insane. I think I am going to follow that build except have external case look different. THanks Brian. I probably wont be starting this for awhile, just wanted to get an idea, but I will definately post some picks. It's still a little too cold to be fiberglassing here (high 40's and low 50's) and i just don't feel like warming up my garage.

Besides, I still need to add power locks and doors to my car, along with new fiberglassed door panels, and i need to finish painting my motorcycle. (no fiberglass on that one, but i do like the customizability of it).

I'll post pictures of all projects though. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif this is going to be a fun 2 months. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

 

[konechiwa 10+ year member]

quick question- I'm looking at the zaph website and it says that 31uF capacitor from bennet will do, but all i see is a 31mdf capacitor. Are they the same?

and do i need two of each to make 2 capacitors? It doesn't say (sorry for super noob question).

Those tweeters are **** expensive too. ****!

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

No, using those speakers would call for completely different designs.
They are full range drivers usually used in single driver loudspeakers, usually involving more complex enclosure design to extend the low frequency output of the driver. Because they are full range, a crossover is typically not needed (or if used is usually quite simple, just a BSC circuit or supertweeter on first order slopes).

I'd say stick to the basic MTM for now. After you build that successfully you'll almost certainly want to build more designs; then you can experiment with full range, three ways, horns or what not.

A B3S in about .25 cubes tuned to 70hz still has decent bass, but he'd obviously need a sub.

 

[BrianChia 10+ year member]

The tweeters are not cheap but they are excellent for the money. Much better than anything you'd find in a "component" car audio tweeter at the same price.

The capacitors are measured in units called Farads. u is the SI prefix for micro, so 1 uF is the same as 1 micro-Farad. Often this is abbreviated as MFD or mfd. So a 31 uF cap = a 31 mfd capacitor. And yes, you will need to make two different crossovers, one for each speaker.

 

[konechiwa 10+ year member]

The tweeters are not cheap but they are excellent for the money. Much better than anything you'd find in a "component" car audio tweeter at the same price.
The capacitors are measured in units called Farads. u is the SI prefix for micro, so 1 uF is the same as 1 micro-Farad. Often this is abbreviated as MFD or mfd. So a 31 uF cap = a 31 mfd capacitor. And yes, you will need to make two different crossovers, one for each speaker.

mm so I'm looking at about 210+shipping...Do you have a recommendation for a cheap reciever that will give the right ammount of wattage to these things? (and sound good doing it for that matter).

 

[BrianChia 10+ year member]

How about this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Yamaha-Rx-497-Rx497-Home-Stereo-Receiver-MUST-SELL_W0QQitemZ370032707560QQihZ024QQcategoryZ3279QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

No, using those speakers would call for completely different designs.
They are full range drivers usually used in single driver loudspeakers, usually involving more complex enclosure design to extend the low frequency output of the driver. Because they are full range, a crossover is typically not needed (or if used is usually quite simple, just a BSC circuit or supertweeter on first order slopes).

I'd say stick to the basic MTM for now. After you build that successfully you'll almost certainly want to build more designs; then you can experiment with full range, three ways, horns or what not.

I beg to differ, full range is the easiest way to get into the hobby, and the enclosures are not complicated at all unless you step into horns...
If you can build a ported enclosure, you can build a set of TABAQs for a pair of Tang Band W3-871s. If its just casual listening, they can easily fill up a small to medium sized room with bass down to 50-60hz...

Here is a link to the measurements and simulations for the TABAQ http://coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ_TL_for_TB.pdf

The drivers he used are very similar to the 871, and he has confirmed that the simulations do not differ much at all...

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-813

They can be a little harsh at high volumes, which is expected for a 3 inch driver, but at average listening levels they are very smooth and detailed. Liked them so much that I have a pair waiting to go into my car //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif The total project cost would barely break $100 for the pair after finishing...

 

[BrianChia 10+ year member]

I beg to differ, full range is the easiest way to get into the hobby, and the enclosures are not complicated at all unless you step into horns...

Hey, I never said what was easiest... I just recommended he build an MTM. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[sqhertz 5,000+ posts]

i was never aware at how simple that design is....i should of picked a pair of those up in stead of these - http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-809 .

could i use these in that enclosure? t/s are different but...

 

[BrianChia 10+ year member]

You could also build both. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

i was never aware at how simple that design is....i should of picked a pair of those up in stead of these - http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-809 .could i use these in that enclosure? t/s are different but...

Those are identical to the 871s, just different frame //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Almost certain, but if you look at the T/S parameters, they are not too far off...
As long as the Qts and FS are similar, you shouldn't have very much variation at all...

 

[sqhertz 5,000+ posts]

Those are identical to the 871s, just different frame //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Almost certain, but if you look at the T/S parameters, they are not too far off...
As long as the Qts and FS are similar, you shouldn't have very much variation at all...

how sure on that are you? i may have to build a set...

 

[sqhertz 5,000+ posts]

same xover/filter as well? im very curious as to what it would sound like...

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

how sure on that are you? i may have to build a set...

593:

*Fs: 110 Hz *SPL: 86 dB 1W/1m *Vas: .06 cu. ft. *Qms: 4.99 *Qes: .67 *Qts: .59

871:

*Fs: 110 Hz *SPL: 87 dB 1W/1m *Vas: .06 cu. ft. *Qms: 6.57 *Qes: .65 *Qts: .59

Thats pretty **** close, like I said, as long as the total Q is very similar (which it is right on the money) you will be fine...I wouldn't lose sleep on it at all...

same xover/filter as well? im very curious as to what it would sound like...

Its actually a baffle step compensation circuit, which relies on the parameters of the woofer, but more heavily on the width of the front baffle.
Without it, the bass would sound weak and it would sound "bright". It basically attenuates the frequencies above a certain point (Dependant on baffle width, but usually around 2-400hz) so the sound will be balanced again.

Usually the compensation is around 3-4db, so you will loose some output. I am guessing you are using these for near field casual listening though, so It shouldn't have a severe impact if you have a good amplifier (30watts or so)

 

[BrianChia 10+ year member]

Usually the compensation is around 3-4db, so you will loose some output. I am guessing you are using these for near field casual listening though, so It shouldn't have a severe impact if you have a good amplifier (30watts or so)

That's true. For near field, Bass knob FTW. If the speaker is placed close to a wall, the amount of BSC needed is reduced if not eliminated.