2 Channel Project

[konechiwa 10+ year member]

OK, so I'd like to create myself a little stereo tower system so i can listen to music through something besides the POS computer speakers i have (a laptop, no less //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif)

Anyway, I was thinking of doing a tower setup, 3-way (or 2), and have absolutely no idea where to start. Wiring, installation-that sort of stuff i can figure out myself, but I need help picking speakers, crossovers and a budget receiver that sounds nice. Budget is pretty tight, like 300 max. That's for speakers, reciever, etc. I'm fine with buying used, ebay, whatever, but I want the best quality i can get for this.

P.S.- to anyone who may flame me on searching- I'm so much a newb at HT/Home Audio that I have no idea where to start and what to search.

Thanks Everyone! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

Click to read more...

 

[jmanpc 5,000+ posts]

i have bookshelves that are .5cf apiece tuned to 49hz via a 2" PVC port, housing AA poly mids and tang band tweets... sound awesome. won't break the bank, either.

 

[sqhertz 5,000+ posts]

i wanted to do one for the longest , but im a noob with crossovers , selection and everything else. i started looking at compact/micro systems like these... http://www.onkyousa.com/model.cfm?m=CS-415&class=Audiosys&p=i - because i dont have the space. sub preout , 3 audio ins , 1 out , low power for the smaller rooms. havnt found any reviews though. just a thought.....

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

buy.com was havng a sale on the logitech z5500 system... that was pretty damb cheap after rebate + free ship. the price was around ur range too and u cant get much better bang for the buck

 

[konechiwa 10+ year member]

buy.com was havng a sale on the logitech z5500 system... that was pretty damb cheap after rebate + free ship. the price was around ur range too and u cant get much better bang for the buck

I'd like to make it myself.

I thought it would be a fun project.

But thanks for the info i'll check it out.

 

[BrianChia 10+ year member]

For your first project, I'd highly recommend building someone else's design instead of trying to create your own. Check out some books, such as the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook, and do lots of reading online (such as diyaudio.com) Then take the time and effort to learn exactly why the designer chose certain components, crossover frequencies, and enclosure types.

Here are two great tower designs to start you out. Both should be able to be built for well under $300 in parts and materials.

http://www.zaphaudio.com/BAMTM.html

http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/indexn.cfm?project=Tritrix&CFID=249692&CFTOKEN=11882072

 

[konechiwa 10+ year member]

For your first project, I'd highly recommend building someone else's design instead of trying to create your own. Check out some books, such as the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook, and do lots of reading online (such as diyaudio.com) Then take the time and effort to learn exactly why the designer chose certain components, crossover frequencies, and enclosure types.
Here are two great tower designs to start you out. Both should be able to be built for well under $300 in parts and materials.

http://www.zaphaudio.com/BAMTM.html

http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/indexn.cfm?project=Tritrix&CFID=249692&CFTOKEN=11882072

i like the first one. It's actually pretty much what i was thinking about building. I've never built crossovers before- is it hard to do? I know how to solder (or however you spell it) but It would be a challenge for me. Would it be worth it to make them, or should I just find some that match the points that he used?

Thanks, thats a lot of help actually.

THe only thing is that I'd really love to make it out fiberglass...If i where to use the same dimensions as him (port size, length, tuning, internal volume)- same drivers too, but make a new design, would it really be that hard?

 

[BrianChia 10+ year member]

I would recommend that you keep everything the same, including crossover component values. If you do choose to make it out of fiberglass, there are two things that you need do. Keep the internal airspace and port tuning frequency the same as that which Zaph recommends. This will yield a maximally flat frequency respone. And keep the width of the baffle where the speakers are mounted the same as Zaph's design. The baffle width has an effect on the sound diffraction patterns and this is compensated for in the crossover. It would require a lot of time and effort to design a new crossover so just keep the same baffle width and use his crossover design.

Other than that, you can make the enclosure out of fiberglass and change other aspects of it around such as the base, depth, and height. Just keep baffle width and volume/tuning the same.

For crossovers, the easiest way is to get pegboard and make as many direct connections between wire leads of the components as possible. Then make sure you twist the leads togeter it properly and tightly, scrape off the enamel on the coils where you are making connections if the tinned area is short.

Use a high power soldering iron and "hot join" the connections. That means you heat the joint with the iron tip then melt the solder on the joint instead of the iron tip, letting it flow over the joint. Make sure you don't heat the components too long since this can damage capacitors.

Some details here:

http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/xover/xover.html

 

[ballstothewall 10+ year member]

I'd build a miniOnken design.

http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/downloads/miniOnken-1v01-FR125-map.pdf

 

[konechiwa 10+ year member]

I would recommend that you keep everything the same, including crossover component values. If you do choose to make it out of fiberglass, there are two things that you need do. Keep the internal airspace and port tuning frequency the same as that which Zaph recommends. This will yield a maximally flat frequency respone. And keep the width of the baffle where the speakers are mounted the same as Zaph's design. The baffle width has an effect on the sound diffraction patterns and this is compensated for in the crossover. It would require a lot of time and effort to design a new crossover so just keep the same baffle width and use his crossover design.
Other than that, you can make the enclosure out of fiberglass and change other aspects of it around such as the base, depth, and height. Just keep baffle width and volume/tuning the same.

For crossovers, the easiest way is to get pegboard and make as many direct connections between wire leads of the components as possible. Then make sure you twist the leads togeter it properly and tightly, scrape off the enamel on the coils where you are making connections if the tinned area is short.

Use a high power soldering iron and "hot join" the connections. That means you heat the joint with the iron tip then melt the solder on the joint instead of the iron tip, letting it flow over the joint. Make sure you don't heat the components too long since this can damage capacitors.

Some details here:

http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/xover/xover.html

I was actually planning on building his sealed model, just because the frequency response had a pretty big bass rolloff below about 70hz.

But yeah, i think I'll just go with buying crossovers... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Last time i messed with those the capacitor blew up...big bang.

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

Or, you could go full range with a B3s or 871s. Best speakers for the money on the market, IMO.

 

[BrianChia 10+ year member]

No, I highly suggest you make your own instead of buying off the shelf. The crossover designs are extremely customized; many aspects are incorporated such as baffle step compensation and output shaping, matching slopes, proper attentuation, etc. You won't find generic ones that match, even if the crossover point is similar. You will really lose out on the potential of the speaker if you don't use his crossover design. I'm sure someone on here might help you build them if you don't want to. I'd do it for you but right now I don't have access to the proper tools.

 

[sqhertz 5,000+ posts]

Or, you could go full range with a B3s or 871s. Best speakers for the money on the market, IMO.

the b3s are on clearance on PE now, iirc.

 

[konechiwa 10+ year member]

Or, you could go full range with a B3s or 871s. Best speakers for the money on the market, IMO.

so i don't understand what your saying, add those into the arrangement?... Huh!?

I took a look at the crossover page, and it actually doesn't seem taht hard. I can do it by myself.

 

[BrianChia 10+ year member]

No, using those speakers would call for completely different designs.

They are full range drivers usually used in single driver loudspeakers, usually involving more complex enclosure design to extend the low frequency output of the driver. Because they are full range, a crossover is typically not needed (or if used is usually quite simple, just a BSC circuit or supertweeter on first order slopes).

I'd say stick to the basic MTM for now. After you build that successfully you'll almost certainly want to build more designs; then you can experiment with full range, three ways, horns or what not.