2 18's in a RANGER!!!

The wire in the pictures of the sub sitting on top of the box is 18 gauge. But that was just for messing around with the subs when they were on the shop floor. We upgraded to 12 gauge when we put the subs in. Also, I'm going to bridge the amps up tomorrow where I only have to set on, and the other one will take them settings, so it will be easier to get a more accurate tune for both subs.

 
1. Bass boost knobs are stupid, you're going to clip the signal

2. Brutus amps **** the big one, for 450 bucks you could have gotten GP3000Ds, which will put out oodles more power

3. The box looks nice

4. I think you should have gone with a little more port area for 2 18 BLs

I think Fi says that you should have 12-16 square inches of port for every cubic foot for any of their subs. Which means you should have 178.8 to 238.4 square inches of port for your 14.9 cube box. You have 56.52 square inches of port. Now, you do have aeros, but still, I think you should have at least 4 6" aeros.

 
Well, here's the deal guys. I've unhooked both bass knobs from the amp as of now. The reason is because now when the subs are playing bass notes from just a normal song, it will hit hard, then sort of just go back and forth, kind of like hitting and missing bass notes( all of this is after the bass knobs have been unplugged). But it does this when the bass notes are still being played in the song, not just randomly after bass hits. Right now the bass boost on the amps are half way up(if I turn them all the way down, I can have the gains cranked and nothing will come out of the subs, so they have to be set half way to even get the subs moving). I've checked the remote wires going to the amps and they are fine, but I think the problem is the rcas. The rcas we are using are pretty thin Schoche rcas, but we are going to replace them tomorrow with some pretty beafy ones that deffinatly won't have signal interference. Do y'all think this is the problem, by having thin rcas, or do you think it's something else.

I really need to know something soon!

Thanks.

 
Well, here's the deal guys. I've unhooked both bass knobs from the amp as of now. The reason is because now when the subs are playing bass notes from just a normal song, it will hit hard, then sort of just go back and forth, kind of like hitting and missing bass notes( all of this is after the bass knobs have been unplugged). But it does this when the bass notes are still being played in the song, not just randomly after bass hits. Right now the bass boost on the amps are half way up(if I turn them all the way down, I can have the gains cranked and nothing will come out of the subs, so they have to be set half way to even get the subs moving). I've checked the remote wires going to the amps and they are fine, but I think the problem is the rcas. The rcas we are using are pretty thin Schoche rcas, but we are going to replace them tomorrow with some pretty beafy ones that deffinatly won't have signal interference. Do y'all think this is the problem, by having thin rcas, or do you think it's something else.
I really need to know something soon!

Thanks.
The bass boost on the amp and the bass boost remote are basically the same thing. Please don't use either. Bass boost will clip the signal and kill your subs.

 
The bass knob is just a gain knob, it just cuts the gain as you turn it down. Nothing more, bass boost on the amplifier itself should not be turned on. I would assume as is the case with most hifonics amps that I have used that you will have to run the gain slightly over 1/2 way to achieve the amplifiers potential. Check it with a dmm to be sure like you should anytime you set up an amplifier. Make sure the low pass and sub-sonic are set correctly as well. Low pass around 50-80hz sub sonic at or just below tuning to be safe......

 
What do you mean seal it off? We are both going to compition this sunday in joplin, mo if anyones close enough to go and watch. Another kids coming along with us with 4 12w7's in a blowthrough in an extended cab chevy. Last year he maxed at 145db at 25hz.

 
The bass knob is just a gain knob, it just cuts the gain as you turn it down. Nothing more, bass boost on the amplifier itself should not be turned on. I would assume as is the case with most hifonics amps that I have used that you will have to run the gain slightly over 1/2 way to achieve the amplifiers potential. Check it with a dmm to be sure like you should anytime you set up an amplifier. Make sure the low pass and sub-sonic are set correctly as well. Low pass around 50-80hz sub sonic at or just below tuning to be safe......
Bass knobs are not always gain knobs. Many cheaper amplifiers that I have seen are bass boost knobs. Make sure that it is not a bass boost knob before you turn it up.

 
Well, with the setting how I have them on the amp, and I plug in the boost knob with it cranked all the way, the settings stay the same, and when I turn it down, it gets softer.

 
What do you mean seal it off? We are both going to compition this sunday in joplin, mo if anyones close enough to go and watch. Another kids coming along with us with 4 12w7's in a blowthrough in an extended cab chevy. Last year he maxed at 145db at 25hz.
seal off the top of the box, basically making it a true wall instead of just a huge box.

that guy only hit 145 with 4 w7s? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
Well, with the setting how I have them on the amp, and I plug in the boost knob with it cranked all the way, the settings stay the same, and when I turn it down, it gets softer.
Its a bass knob not bass 'boost' knob, just leave it unplugged, use the sub setting on the hu to adjust the subwoofer output

 
seal off the top of the box, basically making it a true wall instead of just a huge box.
that guy only hit 145 with 4 w7s? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
At 25hz //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif

 
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