15" L7 at 1,500 watts

36-38hz for the sub is fine, not the best sounding subs in the world.
I've had buds give the L7's 1200 watts daily in 3ish ft^3 ported boxes daily and they did fine. 1500, I have no idea on how it'll do.
4-4.5 is the sweet spot for l7 15s. 3 cubes is rather small, and is going to give you more of a peaky response than anything.

 
4-4.5 is the sweet spot for l7 15s. 3 cubes is rather small, and is going to give you more of a peaky response than anything.

kinda looks like its all personal preference, and type of car your have, acoustic wise, some say 3, some say 5, i guess stayin around 4 shoul give ya a good area to work with...,

A steezy you need to listen to erics l5's and see

 
why should you have the bottom of the sub no more than 6" from the bottom of the box i have 2 12's l7's in a box thats 33tallx13wide and 26long subs are mounted ontop so about 26-27"from bottom of sub to the bottom of the box and the center of the port is 17"up from the bottom so about halfway up the box so around 8-10"from port

so plz exlpain

thanks
it's louder. I haven't played with the 12's though.

I built 23 boxes for a pair of 15's last year. I learned that distance from the bottom of the motor to the bottom of the enclosure makes a huge difference.

 
it's louder. I haven't played with the 12's though.
I built 23 boxes for a pair of 15's last year. I learned that distance from the bottom of the motor to the bottom of the enclosure makes a huge difference.
you had to build 23 boxes for a single pair of 15"s????

that could possibly be the biggest fail of all time, i'm throwing all your advice straight out the door, buh bye

 
try a 155db dumbass
maybe a 151db on music?

I could do more with a 15L7 than you could ever dream of.....
alright, go pull the tampon out of your ass faggot

so what were the box dimensions??? i wanna go build one of these boxes

 
I believe it was 16" tall w/ a double baffle, 22" deep, and about 38" wide. 3 6" psp aeroports full length. The ports were internal firing back and the subs were up. The subs were butted up against the back of the enclosure (port wall).

The distance to the bottom of the box isn't as important when running lower power. I had 2kw to each. (xx Goliath @ .5)

I'd go measure it for you but I put it out in the trash last weekend. I tried giving it away but no one wanted to pick it up.

 
As a tip that delvryboy hinted at with a shallow box: keep the box skinny and design the box to make the sub as far from the port opening as you can.

Example:

100_1351.jpg


 
I think that it is all car dependent and different tips work better for other cars. The shallow (magnet close to the bottom of the box) idea works really well in my truck, but I have found the box that I posted to work really well in trunk cars and suv's for single sub setups. Maybe I'll give your idea another round (sub up, ports back) for a suv because Tommy also recommended that to me. To be honest, the box my team built for sub up ports back was really ghetto and had some flaws, so it might be better than I thought. Generally speaking, keeping the magnet close to the bottom usually tends to make the box longer and thus keeping the sub away from the ports. I have found this to be very important.

 
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