12 years since my last box, before I start cutting figured I'd get a sanity check on this design. 2x Ev3 12s in 2x 1.76cf chambers ~32hz

Wish I would have read that before getting started... No worries buck, I don't plan on bothering you until probably early next year as my woodworking skills are nowhere near where they need to be to pull off a 'buckbuild'. That's the main reason I ripped off the bassahaulic build from sundown's page, no one to bother and if I screw up the cuts it doesn't hurt near as bad.

Currently have the box 80% built, just need to put the top plate on but am exploring different alternative glue/adhesives to ensure the minor variations on the panels seal nicely. All the more reason to get the scrapper over here to pick up my s10 racetruck so I can get the table saw out I suppose.

One dumb question for anyone who is willing to entertain it: How would the tune be affected if the first (rear) sections of the port were approx 1/5-1/4in smaller and the merged port is ~.75 wider than the stolen design? I would think the narrowness would cause a shift towards the higher frequencies but I'm not too sure. That is somewhat shameful to admit considering I'm a decade-old user, but to be fair, my last setup was sold about 8-9 years ago.

I'll post some pictures of the finished build here in a day or two, I never post anything 'in progress' due to my tendancy to do everything in the hardest way possible. The end result is always functional, just the route there is horrific to observe. Also I'm over working with MDF, plywood all the way if only due to hella less dust/wood boogers.

I can make really simple boxes sound really good. Just because a design is simple, that doesn't mean the design isn't exactly what it should be. I always design to the level of whoever is building. You get no judgement from me; everybody has to start somewhere. I actually have that as part of my information that I collect from you; I figure out what you are and aren't capable of building, then I design accordingly.
 
I'm debating on if I want to just see what buck could do for a tline (size is no object), or saving up a few bones to grab 3x more e12 d4 v4s so I can wire somewhere close to 1ohm and see where that gets me with a properly designed box.
After my experience dealing with Buck for my box, I would suggest contacting him BEFORE you buy any more equipment. He has dealt with a lot of different combinations of subs and vehicles, and has a decent idea of how things work together and what will get you to your goals.
 
What software did you design this? @ExtremeODD
Literally stole the refrence box for the e12 v3 from the sundown site (not realzing that I had infact purchased version 4 woofers with different T/S specs), mirrored it and removed the panel that would have divided it into two boxes. That was done in sketchup since the refrence box came with a file I could import. Once it looked good enough I modified the included cutsheet to add the extra bits.
Unforuntatly since I was using a circular saw and the bed of my dead s10 as a cutting table, quite a few cuts were slightly off.
The ports start at 1/4 under what I intended and expand into a 4in wide combined port which has made modeling it in winiso a pain, basically I cannot get winiso to accurately show anything this box does other than being fairly spot on for when the woofers start over extending at full filt.

I don't get why people use all this complicated stuff to set their systems up. I do all my tuning manually, no offense. I mean all of it.

I do gains by ear. I do crossovers by ear. I do EQ'ing by ear. I do time alignment by my own measurements, if I do that (not really relevant to how I listen to music). I highly recommend people learn how to tune everything by ear. If you don't know how to do that, then you may not thoroughly know what's going on with your system. IMO, again, not trying to be offense, if you know how to tune everything by ear, then you really know what's going on with your system. I can just jump into any vehicle, for example, and just start playing with the EQ based off the way it sounds. I know what frequencies make what sounds. I really, really suggest you learn how to tune like that; all of these automatic tuning devices don't really know what you're hearing is like, what you truly like out of your sound. There is no "perfect" EQ setup; it's all based around what YOU like.

Quite literally every single one of my 14 vehicles have been tuned by ear. I've never owned a DSP and this is the first headunit (pioneer x2800bs I got for free from my stepdads nephew) that I've owned with any form of tuning beyond "bass + 3, trebel +2, etc". To be entirely honest, this is my first setup that indicates when the woofers are clipping, and I'd bet that I over drove all of my previous setups past clipping constantly. The 'flow' is android playing pandora over bluetooth to the x2800 BS, the BS has the eq set to flat most of the time with any/all output/input gains left at 0 then the sub frequencies are sent to the sfb/2x e12 with it set to start pulling out at 30ish hz. The rest of the speakers are purely driven off the headunit.

Maybe it's the **** tier JVC coaxials aimed at my ankles, or the **** tier JVC 4x6s aimed at my head from 7ft behind me that share their power/settings with some okayish JBLs in the back doors, but the SQ of this van is that of a wet fart. Every time I seem to get into a 'sweet spot' with one song, the next track sounds bad. I was hoping that even having a basic "X" channel eq would help at least make the adjustments quicker to make without looking away from the road. I'm sure no DSP will make up for a set of super cheap, head unit driven speakers that are overwhelmed by a cheap pair of sundown woofers in a poorly designed box. The only reason I mention adding/swapping equipemnt is due to how under utilized the sfb-2000 is running at 4 ohms, that is leaving a pontential 1600w on the table and I dont see any reasonable way to push that much through a mere pair of e woofers without killing them in short order.

I can make really simple boxes sound really good. Just because a design is simple, that doesn't mean the design isn't exactly what it should be. I always design to the level of whoever is building. You get no judgement from me; everybody has to start somewhere. I actually have that as part of my information that I collect from you; I figure out what you are and aren't capable of building, then I design accordingly.

I fully understand that simple can pound harder than a $12 vodka gallon hangover, the setup I had in my old volvo 740 wagon was a simple 4.2cf downfiring rear ported enclosure with 3 walls extended down ~1.25in to accomidate 25mm of xmax. That pounded harder on a mere 600w phoenix gold xenon amp and garbage hifonic brutus woofers than it had any right to. Might have been some weird synergy with the "chamber" under the floor where the woofers were, anywhere else, facing any other direcftion would half the output. When the brutuse's motors ripped from the baskets, I swapped in a pair of okur db9 12in d4 subs and replaced the pg amp for the ap 18000.1 amp and had the doors/sunroof flexing enough to letin snow during storms. Such a simple box that it ended up tearing itself apart due to the lack of reenforcement it had, never once having saw the full output of that AP amp (even w/ the b3 the volts would go low enough to cause the radio to turn off).

Overall I'm a fairly capable carpetneter, I just had 0 room to work with in the garage, no access to the table saw and did nearly 100% of the work from the bed of an s10 which resulted in the stolen design (for a different version of the woofers) being built out of spec. There are no leaking seams, any cuts that weren't straight enough were ground flat using a belt sander and a flap disk. I didn't bother digging out the router to finish the edes as I assumed that I would want to replace the box fairly quickly so everything was quickly rounded with a flapper disk before tossing a can of bed liner on it.

I'll get some measurements in a bit of the astro's cargo area, along with setting up an account with your payment processor so I can shoot you the loot for a design. Since I have room for days I was thinking a tline may work nicely, however I cannot find much in the way of people talking about using the E series woofers that way. Size is no object with this van, I just would like to have these woofers hit lower without getting stinky from over excursion/increase their ability to handle being cranked without needing to worry about consantly adjusting the remote gain on a song by song basis. The table saw is still buried but the truck has been eliminated so I'll have plenty of room to work and can handle cutting 45 degree corner supports.
 
Literally stole the refrence box for the e12 v3 from the sundown site (not realzing that I had infact purchased version 4 woofers with different T/S specs), mirrored it and removed the panel that would have divided it into two boxes. That was done in sketchup since the refrence box came with a file I could import. Once it looked good enough I modified the included cutsheet to add the extra bits.
Unforuntatly since I was using a circular saw and the bed of my dead s10 as a cutting table, quite a few cuts were slightly off.
The ports start at 1/4 under what I intended and expand into a 4in wide combined port which has made modeling it in winiso a pain, basically I cannot get winiso to accurately show anything this box does other than being fairly spot on for when the woofers start over extending at full filt.



Quite literally every single one of my 14 vehicles have been tuned by ear. I've never owned a DSP and this is the first headunit (pioneer x2800bs I got for free from my stepdads nephew) that I've owned with any form of tuning beyond "bass + 3, trebel +2, etc". To be entirely honest, this is my first setup that indicates when the woofers are clipping, and I'd bet that I over drove all of my previous setups past clipping constantly. The 'flow' is android playing pandora over bluetooth to the x2800 BS, the BS has the eq set to flat most of the time with any/all output/input gains left at 0 then the sub frequencies are sent to the sfb/2x e12 with it set to start pulling out at 30ish hz. The rest of the speakers are purely driven off the headunit.

Maybe it's the **** tier JVC coaxials aimed at my ankles, or the **** tier JVC 4x6s aimed at my head from 7ft behind me that share their power/settings with some okayish JBLs in the back doors, but the SQ of this van is that of a wet fart. Every time I seem to get into a 'sweet spot' with one song, the next track sounds bad. I was hoping that even having a basic "X" channel eq would help at least make the adjustments quicker to make without looking away from the road. I'm sure no DSP will make up for a set of super cheap, head unit driven speakers that are overwhelmed by a cheap pair of sundown woofers in a poorly designed box. The only reason I mention adding/swapping equipemnt is due to how under utilized the sfb-2000 is running at 4 ohms, that is leaving a pontential 1600w on the table and I dont see any reasonable way to push that much through a mere pair of e woofers without killing them in short order.



I fully understand that simple can pound harder than a $12 vodka gallon hangover, the setup I had in my old volvo 740 wagon was a simple 4.2cf downfiring rear ported enclosure with 3 walls extended down ~1.25in to accomidate 25mm of xmax. That pounded harder on a mere 600w phoenix gold xenon amp and garbage hifonic brutus woofers than it had any right to. Might have been some weird synergy with the "chamber" under the floor where the woofers were, anywhere else, facing any other direcftion would half the output. When the brutuse's motors ripped from the baskets, I swapped in a pair of okur db9 12in d4 subs and replaced the pg amp for the ap 18000.1 amp and had the doors/sunroof flexing enough to letin snow during storms. Such a simple box that it ended up tearing itself apart due to the lack of reenforcement it had, never once having saw the full output of that AP amp (even w/ the b3 the volts would go low enough to cause the radio to turn off).

Overall I'm a fairly capable carpetneter, I just had 0 room to work with in the garage, no access to the table saw and did nearly 100% of the work from the bed of an s10 which resulted in the stolen design (for a different version of the woofers) being built out of spec. There are no leaking seams, any cuts that weren't straight enough were ground flat using a belt sander and a flap disk. I didn't bother digging out the router to finish the edes as I assumed that I would want to replace the box fairly quickly so everything was quickly rounded with a flapper disk before tossing a can of bed liner on it.

I'll get some measurements in a bit of the astro's cargo area, along with setting up an account with your payment processor so I can shoot you the loot for a design. Since I have room for days I was thinking a tline may work nicely, however I cannot find much in the way of people talking about using the E series woofers that way. Size is no object with this van, I just would like to have these woofers hit lower without getting stinky from over excursion/increase their ability to handle being cranked without needing to worry about consantly adjusting the remote gain on a song by song basis. The table saw is still buried but the truck has been eliminated so I'll have plenty of room to work and can handle cutting 45 degree corner supports.

If you send me the dimensions you have to work with, along with the vehicle and sub(s), then I can totally tell you what I think will work.

Are you referring to a Sundown E series?
 
Yeah the sundown e12 d4 v4 subs (specs are on down4sound.com but strangely not on sundowns own website...). I sent you an email with the details.

Figured pandora might be part of the problem, are there any streaming services that have fairly high quality encoding/bit rates? I've only ever really used pandora other than back in the early 2000s when I used to carry an mp3 player everywhere. I'd download some albums but my phone is very limited on space but I will swap over to having it wired in instead of bt.
 
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