10" midbass in a custom three way

[IBLIS/SHAITAIN]

Hard to burn up any driver if you set the system up right to begin with.

wanna bet? very easy to do if you abuse your drivers. sq speakers are not designed to run at full volume for long periods of time. especially with the kind of music i listen to.... death and black metal witha crap load of kick-drum, and mega low drop tune guitar riffs. i run a lot of power to my front stage... a lot. i use a scop meter to make sure that i'm not over-powering my drivers. problem is the voice coils and the spiders break down... burn the fvck up. with a pro audio driver you can blast the fvck of them and not worry about killing them... period

 

[cj407]

The only reason to use pro audio drivers is for the sheer output. Once you accept that loud and accurate are not necessarily the same thing, you'll see what I'm getting out. And once you get out of central FL where systems are judged solely on output, you'll hear what a good system sounds like.
What you're talking about is a sound reinforcement system. They almost always use big drivers on the bottom end (usually extended range woofers, not subs) and large midranges for increased efficiency. The woofers are what are doing the majority of the work in the midbass range, not the midranges. Play them without the woofers and they sound pretty hollow. You get the skin tone off the drums, but there's a full octave and a half in most music below 100hz.

what's this attack on Central FL for....now you makin out to be like all of Central FL is only about being loud and obnoxious. you know sometimes people have to use pro audio drivers to keep up with the amount of woofers they have. 4 15's and a component system in each door isnt gonna sound correct...all you're gonna hear is bass. So when you think about it...EV is a pro driver manufacturer...guess who most of the time has EV in their vehicles....NEW YORKERS...so its not just one region who has to keep up with the bass output...and not everyone on here does Competition vehicles most on here are just using daily systems and not trying to compete for bragging rights cash and trophies...u must be one of those non-competitors.

 

[80INCHES 5,000+ posts]

ok im a complete idiot

check ur pm ...cuz im not tellin all or any of my secrets.

80

 

[teedot231999 10+ year member]

i would go with a beyma mi10 10" midrange, paired up with a beyma ast-09 bullet tweets.

do a two-way active, with a pro audio driver designed for car audio. these 10" drivers are loud as fvck and sound sweet. you wanna kill the competition go with beyma.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9253_Beyma+PRO+10MI.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6525_Beyma+AST-09.html

I personally think Beyma, B&C, And the Emeince Alpha's are the best pro audio woofers out there. I personally think Beyma are the best sounding as far as clarity next to B&C. I realy wanted to stay away from pro audio equipment because most of them are very loud and harsh on the ears. Yes an EQ can control certain frequencies. If I were in to straight SPL then Pro audio Is the route I would go but I am looking for a 10" MIDBASS WOOFER. I am also taking suggestion.

hey not everyone in tampa is SPLZ squeak. DO i get kudos?
i suggest to the op the following.

midbass wise. id suggest peerless sls 8's coupled with either seas l series aluminum 4.5" midranges or some peerless exclusive 4.5's topped off by the peerless large format hds series tweeter or hiquphon ow1 / ow2 tweeters.

but im sorry im more sq. and while the 3500 series dd's can actually sound quite nice. 3 of them will prob kill most sq you would have.

another suggestion would be to look into dynaudio's sets. all around extremely nice set.

Thanks for the suggestion. I was actually looking at peerless and seas products. I owned a pair of seas 7" midbass driver. I sold them so I can get a pair of 10" midbass. I am not sure if I am going to get three 18's but I have ordered 2 so far. I am still debating if I am going with three 18's it all depends if my enclosure builder thinks I he can build an efficent enclosure for all three subs

I knew you were from Florida before I even looked at your location //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
Keep the FL idiocy confined to that state, and please quit trying to infect the rest of the nation.

New yorkers have already adapted the Beyma bug. I'm not saying I hate them but They are decent depending on how you use them

let's see i have this system in a 2006 tahoe and it will tear your head off. i couldn't run my neo comp horns soooo i was looking for a large dome tweet that could play up to 4hz with super high sensitivity. the beyma bullets are about as close as your gonna get to a compresion driver. the sound not as smaooth but kills on spl.... nothing a good eq want tone down. the beyma mi10 sounds very similar to a clestian.... warm midbass... kick-drum to crack your chest plate in half.... nothing like a large driver glassed in the door. i went this route because i was tired of drivers not being able to take abuse... voice coils burning up. you cross those mi10's at 100hz, sub stage to 80 and it will blow you away. sounds like your bringing the sub stage to the front. if your in to hard metal like me... loud and clean... hard to beat a pro audio driver. don't tell me you don't respect the jbl 2118's....

Alot of people use Beyma and other pro audio drivers in their rides. Some of these rides sound haveway decent if you ask me but it sll depends on your crossover point or some sort of processor to tame them. I respect your gansta homie

And you proved his point for him. Bullet tweets sound like crap, you basically even admitted such. If you need an EQ to make them listenable, that should tell you right there that they are not a hi-fi solution. The OP is looking for something that actually sounds good. Those do not. Loud and good are not the same thing.
If you actually knew WTF you were doing, you' find a real midbass that you could cross lower than 100hz. As it is you are running those big drivers as midranges, not midbasses and thus wasting the effort used to squeeze a 10" driver into the door.

Well like it says I am looking for 10" midbass drivers I sold my seas because thats all I had were midbass drivers trying to make them midrange woofers. I appreciate all the comments. I want a clean sound. Yeah I know three 18's isn't a typical substage for an award winning SQ setup. I am not trying to build a SQ setup but I would like to have a realy nice SQL setup. I know I will have to give and take to make it work but I believe you can be loud and maintain a quality sound response. TO EVERYONE WHO READS THIS POST HELOTAXI MAKES A GOOD POINT THAT LOUD AND GOOD ARE NOT THE SAME THING. Now granted you can be loud and sound good but just because your set up is loud doesn't means it sounds good. When it comes to car audio everyones ears and prefrence is different so what I like you may not and vice versa.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[cj407]

honestly teedot...if you are running 3 15's, 4 15's or 3 18's ur sq is out the window and in order to keep up with the bass that ur gonna have from those subs ur gonna need to look into pro audio drivers....now if you were sayin u were running 2 800 watt 12's it would be a case but 3 15's at 1200 rms a piece isnt gonna sound nice with a 10" midbass in the door 6" or 8" midrange and a tweeter...its just not feasible...3600 watts of bass with 600 watts of mb,mr,and high doesnt = out

 

[80INCHES 5,000+ posts]

...now if you were sayin u were running 2 800 watt 12's it would be a case

i gotta disagree with u there

i have ae re se 12's and one sundown sae1kd and im doing 144 @ 38hz so i definitly need somethng to keep up

he.s doing 3 18's he wants some thing thats goin to keep up without having to run a crapload of coaxials

my suggestion

1 10 on each door 2 6.5's on each door and 1 ribbion tweeter on each door( cuz ribbions sound nice and the can call whales and dogs and other tanimals)

dont put anything in the reardeck sound suppose to be in front not behind ...but if u want something back there put 2 6's and 2 tweeters and ur fine....with the pm i sent u...if u put those speakers in u ride how i just described..u will be very pleased...t

80

 

[Here-I-Come 10+ year member]

Listen it does not matter how many subs you have in the system it has no effect on SQ.

Tuning, Tuning, Tuning is key at this point. One would argue and say multi sub setups are better, why you may ask, well the extra cone are is key to having the sub system do less work in order to have the same level of undistorted output. Just because you have 3 15 in the system it does not mean the bass has to be over powering. Is it over kill, yes. Can it sound just as good or better then a single sub set, yes it can. And when you want it to over power everything else and shack some houses it can do. Different setting, one for SQ and one to pound.

You I hear man have sub/s x with x amount of power you can't your system is going to be bass heavy and this is just not true. Tuning, Tuning. And power is our friend. Headroom room my friends. The extra power help with dynamic of the system.

Back in the 90's their was a Blue Nissan is I remember correctly had like 15 15" subs in the bed with the tunnel cover and port into the cab of the truck and he won this class at finals with all of them playing. I remember reading the article on the truck and said the response from the sub system was near ruler flat.

 

[cj407]

you misread my opinion.....i was sayin if you put it this way if you have x amount of woofers and want to do a 3 way system its gonna take double the amount of mids and highs to equal the thundering bass....i mean dont get me wrong i've had 2 15's at 1500 watts and only used 2 6.5's and 1 6x9(kids tore the other apart) and 4 tweeters and it sounded great....loud but clear...but he's got 3 spl 15's and saying he's not lookin at pro audio cuz he's not after spl....well to tell you the truth the only quality sounding sub that DD makes (and i use DD) is the 9000 series. the 3500 series is built to get loud pounding bass.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

you misread my opinion.....i was sayin if you put it this way if you have x amount of woofers and want to do a 3 way system its gonna take double the amount of mids and highs to equal the thundering bass....i mean dont get me wrong i've had 2 15's at 1500 watts and only used 2 6.5's and 1 6x9(kids tore the other apart) and 4 tweeters and it sounded great....loud but clear...but he's got 3 spl 15's and saying he's not lookin at pro audio cuz he's not after spl....well to tell you the truth the only quality sounding sub that DD makes (and i use DD) is the 9000 series. the 3500 series is built to get loud pounding bass.

We might have different definitions on what "sounds great" mean.

 

[Here-I-Come 10+ year member]

I have learn one thing over them 14+ years in being in car audio when it comes subs. It more of the enclosure. I mean I built a sub system for a customer to made actually man sign a discloser agreement not to copy the design. It was a tensions line design for a car that a friend of his designed for him. The design use a 20 bux subwoofer from partsexpress. He gave me the design and the sub, I say, I will build it to your specs, but if it does sound good its on you. He say no problem. I built it and man let me tell you this was one of the best sounding sub systems i have heard.

The first CV stroker is another sub. When it came out it was suppose to be a SPL sub, but in the right enclosure it is a great sounding sub. Don't get me wrong, if you start with a great product it is easier to get there. There is not many subs design for just SPL and if it is, it is usual a custom design and built to be a one note wonder.

DD makes great products and just about any of them can be made to sound very good in a enclosure designed for SQ.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

I see NO reason to do 10's in the doors if you already have 3 subs to cover the low freqs.

Get 1-2 good mids per door that will play from around 60Hz on up and you should be fine...

 

[WrenchGuy 10+ year member]

Wow.

I have 2 BTL 18's on 2000 each. They blend very nice when I back her off. The 8"mids are there also just not quite definite.

I'm going 10's just for more authority up front. I'm not a SQ guru but so far it sounds **** nice but can be ridiculously loud also. I've had great compliments on it.

I also know for a fact if I were going for SQ I would not be even close. I also know what song I'm listening to when the subs are slappin and thats the main goal for me.

To the OP if you want em get em. I am for sure! Then tell me you what you think if you beat me to it.

 

[teedot231999 10+ year member]

If he does a 10" midbass would he be better off using a 6" midrange to keep up with that 10"?

I was definately thinking a 5"-8" dedicated midrange

honestly teedot...if you are running 3 15's, 4 15's or 3 18's ur sq is out the window and in order to keep up with the bass that ur gonna have from those subs ur gonna need to look into pro audio drivers....now if you were sayin u were running 2 800 watt 12's it would be a case but 3 15's at 1200 rms a piece isnt gonna sound nice with a 10" midbass in the door 6" or 8" midrange and a tweeter...its just not feasible...3600 watts of bass with 600 watts of mb,mr,and high doesnt = out

I have several amps I can use for powering comps my JBL Gto amps Or my JBL pdx amps. I was hoping That there were dedicated midranges out there that I could use that were not pro audio woofers. IMO you have to use some sort of processor to tweake pro audio woofers so they won't hurt your ears.

you misread my opinion.....i was sayin if you put it this way if you have x amount of woofers and want to do a 3 way system its gonna take double the amount of mids and highs to equal the thundering bass....i mean dont get me wrong i've had 2 15's at 1500 watts and only used 2 6.5's and 1 6x9(kids tore the other apart) and 4 tweeters and it sounded great....loud but clear...but he's got 3 spl 15's and saying he's not lookin at pro audio cuz he's not after spl....well to tell you the truth the only quality sounding sub that DD makes (and i use DD) is the 9000 series. the 3500 series is built to get loud pounding bass.quote.

I agrree the 9000 series probably had the best SQ of all the DD subs. I have seen people with dedicated SQ setups with multiple DD95 subs and DD35 series subs. IMO the 3500 series has some pretty decent SQ even though it shares some of the same parts as the 9500 series subs. I think you can have a little both SQ & Spl in a sub. Look at the RE SX and XXX Again I am not sure if I will buy a third sub or not it all depends if my enclosure guy can build me an enclosure that will allow my subs to work efficently and to their maximum potenial. I know three 18's aren't a common SQ set up. Why can't I have the best of both worlds or al least enough of both worlds that allow me to get low loud and maintain a clean sound that won't fatigue my ears while listening to it. I know it's a give and take when doing car audio if you want a dedicated spl setup you will loose SQ and vice versa. I think you mis read or misunderstood my reply

I personally think Beyma, B&C, And the Emeince Alpha's are the best pro audio woofers out there. I personally think Beyma are the best sounding as far as clarity next to B&C. I realy wanted to stay away from pro audio equipment because most of them are very loud and harsh on the ears. Yes an EQ can control certain frequencies. If I were in to straight SPL and not care how I sound then Pro audio Is the route I would go. I am looking for a 10" MIDBASS WOOFER. I am also taking suggestion.

We might have different definitions on what "sounds great" mean.

Everyone has their own perception a definiton on what sound great, good, better, best, ok, supurb, exvellent, wonderful and etc. There is so much grey area when it comes to someones opinion or persception If we started a tread about this this thread would never end.

 

[teedot231999 10+ year member]

Wow.
I have 2 BTL 18's on 2000 each. They blend very nice when I back her off. The 8"mids are there also just not quite definite.

I'm going 10's just for more authority up front. I'm not a SQ guru but so far it sounds **** nice but can be ridiculously loud also. I've had great compliments on it.

I also know for a fact if I were going for SQ I would not be even close. I also know what song I'm listening to when the subs are slappin and thats the main goal for me.

To the OP if you want em get em. I am for sure! Then tell me you what you think if you beat me to it.

I will do so. Thanks for your input . Your setup seems like it's going to be a beast. I will document this build.My camera phone (the motorola razr v3) is F'd up so That means I have to buy a decent camera phone. I hope I can find a decent one fr less than $150. I am no professional photographer. lol!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I see NO reason to do 10's in the doors if you already have 3 subs to cover the low freqs.
Get 1-2 good mids per door that will play from around 60Hz on up and you should be fine...

Thereis no real reason to do any of the things we do in caraudio as enthusiast and hobbist but we do them form our enjoyment and or to compete. I want to try something different and record my results. I like to actually try things then when someone else needs some personal experience and input I can give them detail info from what I did and where I fell short at or had success why the should or should not attempt it. I know everyone isn't keen on this idea I respect your opinion and I appreciate you sharing your thoughts bro Thanks

I have learn one thing over them 14+ years in being in car audio when it comes subs. It more of the enclosure. I mean I built a sub system for a customer to made actually man sign a discloser agreement not to copy the design. It was a tensions line design for a car that a friend of his designed for him. The design use a 20 bux subwoofer from partsexpress. He gave me the design and the sub, I say, I will build it to your specs, but if it does sound good its on you. He say no problem. I built it and man let me tell you this was one of the best sounding sub systems i have heard.
The first CV stroker is another sub. When it came out it was suppose to be a SPL sub, but in the right enclosure it is a great sounding sub. Don't get me wrong, if you start with a great product it is easier to get there. There is not many subs design for just SPL and if it is, it is usual a custom design and built to be a one note wonder.

DD makes great products and just about any of them can be made to sound very good in a enclosure designed for SQ.

I agree that DD makes good products that can do SPL and SQ. I also agree you enclosure build determinds or plays a big factor in your overall sound

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

what's this attack on Central FL for....now you makin out to be like all of Central FL is only about being loud and obnoxious. you know sometimes people have to use pro audio drivers to keep up with the amount of woofers they have. 4 15's and a component system in each door isnt gonna sound correct...all you're gonna hear is bass. So when you think about it...EV is a pro driver manufacturer...guess who most of the time has EV in their vehicles....NEW YORKERS...so its not just one region who has to keep up with the bass output...and not everyone on here does Competition vehicles most on here are just using daily systems and not trying to compete for bragging rights cash and trophies...u must be one of those non-competitors.

I'm from FL, cool guy...and if you're using 4 15s you're out to be loud and obnoxious. If you're trying to "keep up" with a ridiculous sub system, you're trying to be loud and obnoxious.