10 farad stinger cap wiring for best SPL/current delivery and ground return

[penex6]

Hey guys, question:

10 farad stinger cap.. Okay, 1/0 (+)input and output. Has the same dual 1/0 terminal for ground. On the ground side of things which scenario would be more beneficial? One of the terminals piping 1/0 OFC to my 1/0 grnd terminal on my ZX2500 and the other to frame or only using one of the cap's terminals to frame ground then grounding amp to frame instead of cap?

Done it both ways but noticed little if any change without hooking any meters up. Voltage holds about the same but one way has to b the better way. Install sheet was very vauge,and since getting two nice yellow tops and a 270 mechman I'm debating tossing it altogether. That is until results and testing i saw done by D'amore engineering on you tube with their amp dyno. SPL burps vs just street pounding around. Yea I know "it's just a bandage", but I do have the alt and batteries to back it up.

Thoughts and corrections please?

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[gckless 5,000+ posts]

What you've noticed is what you're going to get. 10F isn't much.

 

[penex6]

Yea, I'm aware 10Farads iSnt the biggest cap on the planet. I was only reaching out for as little fine tune wiring advice, and which method of wiring would be most effective. Yes, left as it is now it would be fine but I'd rather get a little feedback from guys that have been there done that with this style cap.

10 farad is more than sufficient for a 2500 watt amp.

Looking for feedback on wiring examples,if someone has ever played with these stinger caps and grounding methods with amp in consideration. I'll do my own experiment with and without the cap and decide on chunking it or not. It was installed before I added the 270A alt. Yea there are larger caps out there thanks for pointing out the size of mine. But I'm really looking for feedback and help.

 

[big scott]

ditch the cap and get a good audio battery.

 

[I'mPoor:(]

Trolling?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Yea, I'm aware 10Farads iSnt the biggest cap on the planet. I was only reaching out for as little fine tune wiring advice, and which method of wiring would be most effective. Yes, left as it is now it would be fine but I'd rather get a little feedback from guys that have been there done that with this style cap. 10 farad is more than sufficient for a 2500 watt amp.

Looking for feedback on wiring examples,if someone has ever played with these stinger caps and grounding methods with amp in consideration. I'll do my own experiment with and without the cap and decide on chunking it or not. It was installed before I added the 270A alt. Yea there are larger caps out there thanks for pointing out the size of mine. But I'm really looking for feedback and help.

caps do next to nothing with that amount of current draw, AGM batteries will be what helps out.

 

[big scott]

Trolling?

really ???

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Nobody (knowledgeable) on here will ever recommend using "mainstream" capacitors like yours. Supercapacitors are a different story. Those are more money than you're willing to pay, and are mostly used only to save on weight. Ditch your capacitor and buy an AGM battery, like was previously suggested.

Your cap may keep your lights from dimming, but its starving your amp. You may damage your amplifier if you push it too hard. The current storage capacity of small capacitors is outweighed by the internal resistance. Try running a mile while breathing through a straw

This is feedback and help, but you don't seem to want to listen

 

[I'mPoor:(]

XS Power D5100 12-Volt Deep Cycle AGM Power Cell Battery

that guy will do wonders and eliminate the capacitor.

 

[penex6]

Thanks to the guys posting positive feedback. Apparently "I don't want to seem to listen". The "mainstream" cap was bought before my 270A alt or I wouldn't have it. I always assumed that a cap re-charging was just another power eating device. I was only tossing the idea around that if you have enough power running to it that maybe the downstream side wouldn't suffer. "Caps are band aids" "it's not a fix" yea I get it. But I have a fairly small system and if it wasn't hurting it then just leave it in instead of scrapping it.

The ground scheme was the main idea behind my question and all of it was just splitting hairs. I can maintain 14.9 volts at all three amps at the max volume I can turn my H/U to b4 clipping. The fact that the ground specs were vague had me posting this thread. I was trying to see how someone else went about wiring the dreaded capacitor.

Since that first post I did try everything with and without the cap and it made no difference. Not saying it would be the same result for someone with more/bigger equipment, but for me and my set-up there was no change.

I will upgrade my batteries when my not so trendy optimas are due for a transplant but for now I'm keeping the almost 500$ pair with good amperage and voltage supply to my amps.

Still curious about grounding methods if someone's brave enough to mention a cap in the shark tank here! But seriously though thanks again to you guys supplying the feedback without the extra comments at the new dude....

 

[Snapper_Slapper 10+ year member]

Thanks to the guys posting positive feedback. Apparently "I don't want to seem to listen". The "mainstream" cap was bought before my 270A alt or I wouldn't have it. I always assumed that a cap re-charging was just another power eating device. I was only tossing the idea around that if you have enough power running to it that maybe the downstream side wouldn't suffer. "Caps are band aids" "it's not a fix" yea I get it. But I have a fairly small system and if it wasn't hurting it then just leave it in instead of scrapping it. The ground scheme was the main idea behind my question and all of it was just splitting hairs. I can maintain 14.9 volts at all three amps at the max volume I can turn my H/U to b4 clipping. The fact that the ground specs were vague had me posting this thread. I was trying to see how someone else went about wiring the dreaded capacitor.

Since that first post I did try everything with and without the cap and it made no difference. Not saying it would be the same result for someone with more/bigger equipment, but for me and my set-up there was no change.

I will upgrade my batteries when my not so trendy optimas are due for a transplant but for now I'm keeping the almost 500$ pair with good amperage and voltage supply to my amps.

Still curious about grounding methods if someone's brave enough to mention a cap in the shark tank here! But seriously though thanks again to you guys supplying the feedback without the extra comments at the new dude....

Your cap doesn't really have input and output on the neg side. It just has 2 terminals on a common neg buss. There is some sort of switch on the pos side though. If you open it up you'll see what Im talking about. I would ground both the cap and amp to the frame. The buss between input and output on your cap's neg side isn't super beefy. I don't think either way you mentioned would be "beneficial" but I think wiring it the latter would eliminate a possible weak link.

 

[globalminds_ent 10+ year member]

add the alt, and keep the optimas if they are working for you, don't see the point in adding a cap if your not going under 14.9

 

[penex6]

Thanks snap slap. Knew the neg buss was common just didn't know which way would be best. Thanks for your input.
@Global minds: not adding the cap. Already had it before the MechMan. Was just trying to confirm my suspicions on the ground scheme out of curiosity. 14.9 with or without the cap it's all good. It'll stay for now until I get my 4th amp that needs to sit where the cap is now.

Snap slap, yea the ground lug busses are very cheesy, I agree. Feels like they are about to break off if u don't hold them carefully when torquing the set screws on some 1 O OFC.