1 door is finished

[titanle 10+ year member]

heres some final shots of the speaker and the doors. I did a double layer on pretty much the whole door, and then the lower area behind the speaker i did that whole part 3x

 

[Worlddre 5,000+ posts]

ok that speaker install is god awful.....there is obviously air escaping from the rear of the driver. So im going to need you to take a piece of mdf and make a plate to mount that midrange to so that you can acheive some sort of a seal. Below is a link on one way to do this..... All that deadening will be useless without a proper speaker install //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=308073

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

heres some final shots of the speaker and the doors. I did a double layer on pretty much the whole door, and then the lower area behind the speaker i did that whole part 3x

Absolute fail.
Never mind fixing the holes, you dont even have the speakers mounted to solid baffles.

Front and rear sound waves from a speaker should never meet. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[MikeATL 10+ year member]

^^^ agree you need to make some custom MDF baffles or something to better mount those speakers. Since you're already in there, I'd recommend sealing your door as well.

Check here or here for examples.

 

[titanle 10+ year member]

Ok i can probably take my stock speaker baffle and the round one that came with the hertz and have the local hardware store cut a piece of mdf to fit it. I had no idea that speakers HAD to be sealed, this is the exact same way my kappas were installed. The round mounting ring was just screwed to the stock 6x9.

ok now about the holes you guys keep telling me to seal. Are you talking about the small holes or like that big open area beside the speaker and the 2 other large openings.

 

[titanle 10+ year member]

I found these 2 products from crutchfield

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?showAll=N&g=103200&i=142SA69&tp=2824&tab=review#tab , that one is an adapter baffle for my truck

and then theres this universal 6.5" baffle http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=762&i=237XT652&tp=2809

would either of these work?

 

[titanle 10+ year member]

help!!!!!!

 

[MikeATL 10+ year member]

IMO you'd be better off just fabricating adapters yourself from 3/4" MDF.

Sealing your door would involve getting better adapters for those woofers and sealing those big holes in your door. In a perfect wold, you'd want to seal ALL the holes. The major ones would be the one to the left of the speaker and at the top left in your pic. If you can seal all the holes, the better. You'll get a lot better output from those mids/woofers.

You can use plexiglass, roofing flashing, or really anything that will give your deadener some rigidity. Some folks have even used cardboard and been happy w/the results.

 

[titanle 10+ year member]

but arent those holes there for a purpose? or is it just weight reduction?

 

[MikeATL 10+ year member]

Makes it easier for maintenance and for the lock mechanism - other than that no. If you seal them make sure and use something non permanent like RTV sealant or adhesive caulk in case you or someone else ever needs to get in there. The better sealed your doors, the more bass you'll get out of those mids.

Have you ever played a sub free air not in an enclosure? Absolutely no bass - the waves from behind the speaker are coming back around and canceling it out. Same concept in your doors, you want it as sealed as possible. Looks like you've already invested quite a bit in both time/money into your system (I'll leave the Fat Mat alone) - you might as well get the most out of it.

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

You should look at the link I gave on the first page. It goes in detail on how to seal your speaker to your door (with MDF and molding clay) and how to seal the open holes in your door.