'06 Silverado 2500HD crew cab - JL Audio & Focal - Need help

[06dmax00camss 10+ year member]

Hello everyone! I'm new to the site and this is actually my first thread/post. I guess you can say I'm new to car audio as well as I've never performed any kind of installation. However, I was successful in installing my Alpine IVA-W200 about 3 weeks ago, along with the PAC OS2-Bose, PAC SWI-ALP, and PAC TR-7 that all went well. I know a little about car audio, but very little. I've been told that if I can install the head unit, then I should be able to tackle a complete sound system.

Anyhow, I wanted to complete my sound system by adding a pair of JL Audio 10W3V3, a JL Audio 500/1, Focal 165V2S, Focal 130CV1, and a JL Audio 300/4. I'm sure I'll have mixed opinions on the equipment I chose, but keep in mind, this is somewhat on a budget. If I upgraded the components and coaxles, then I'm going to have to upgrade to a better amp which is more money again. As far as the subs, they'll be my limit as far as what can fit without major modifications. I'd like to keep it as stealth like as possible. Otherwise I'd take out the bench seat, install buckets, do a custom console with either a W6 or W7.

About 6 years back, I used to have a pair of JL Audio 10W3V2 powered by a PPI2400 in a single cab Chevrolet truck. It was in a custom sealed MDF enclosure that was behind the seat. Nothing fancy, but was built and installed by a reputable local individual. They were off to one side and fired towards the wall. I was very pleased with the sound even though it was a little under powered. I had an aftermarket head unit, but the rest of the speakers were factory, which were only 2 and they were in the dash. I think they were 4x6. If I thought that was good, then I'm going to be blown away with doing a COMPLETE system. So that's why I was wanting to go the JL Audio route as far as subs and I've heard nothing but good stuff about their amps.

Ok...I've got a 2006 Silverado 2500HD crew cab with a Duramax diesel. I mentioned the diesel part because it may be relevant as it has 2 batteries. I want to do the install by myself, with the help that I hope to obtain from here. I plan to remove the rear flap and tabs on the wall. If I have to modify the vents, I'll do so as well. So here are my questions:

1. Do I need capacitors? (I've been told no because I have 2 batteries)

2. Do I need an external crossover (I've been told no because my head unit and the amps have them built in and could adjust accordingly)

3. Will Dynamatting the doors be good enough or should I consider more? I was thinking the floor and back wall.

4. What all do I need to hook everything up? When I say everything, I mean EVERYTHING. The reason why I emphasize on everything is because this is my FIRST time to do an install and I want to make sure that I have everything before I tear my truck apart. I have all the tools that should be necessary for the job...I think. Volt meter, wire strippers, wire cutters, screw drivers, soldering gun, drill, etc. I have tons of tools, those are the ones that were off the top of my head that might be needed.

5. Will I even be able to use 10W3V3s behind my back seat? If I built the box up to the top port of the plastic, bottom of the window, how much cu. ft. will the box have?

6. Minimum and optimum cu. ft. per chamber on the 10W3V3?

7. Would I be ok to not use any bracing, just lots of nails and a good glue?

My truck came factory with tweeters in the pillar, components in the front doors, and 5 1/4 coaxles in the rear doors, so I shouldn't have to do any modifications to install the new equipment since there's already locations for them. I could be wrong though and if so, hopefully not too much.

Will I need any more adapters, harnesses, etc.? Please please be very specific on all the necessary parts needed for installing my complete system.

Lastly, I know it will be hard for someone to guide me on tuning it, however, I'm sure there has to be someone on here that has the same style truck as I do and more than likey the same equipment, so we should be able to get it pretty close. Then I can fine tune. THANK YOU SO MUCH and ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!

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[dbman150 5,000+ posts]

you can fit 12s in there 2

 

[billabongcr 5,000+ posts]

if your on a budget you could save a few bucks by not using JL. there are other cheaper companies that if you get a bunch of components all working together correctly, will sound alot just as good as/better than JL.

i didnt mean to start the JL/every other company ever war, but its something to look into

and if your gunna run 2 10w3v3's, shouldnt you use a bigger amp than a 500/1?

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

\So here are my questions:
1. Do I need capacitors? (I've been told no because I have 2 batteries)

No. If anything check out the Electrical/Wiring forums here, and look into the Big3.

2. Do I need an external crossover (I've been told no because my head unit and the amps have them built in and could adjust accordingly)

No. You components will come with a crossover. You'll be able to fine tune through the HU and Amps.

3. Will Dynamatting the doors be good enough or should I consider more? I was thinking the floor and back wall.

If it's within your budget, then do it. It'll only improve sound and reduce exterior noise.

 

I recommend http://www.secondskinaudio.com join the forum and you get a discount.

4. What all do I need to hook everything up? When I say everything, I mean EVERYTHING. The reason why I emphasize on everything is because this is my FIRST time to do an install and I want to make sure that I have everything before I tear my truck apart. I have all the tools that should be necessary for the job...I think. Volt meter, wire strippers, wire cutters, screw drivers, soldering gun, drill, etc. I have tons of tools, those are the ones that were off the top of my head that might be needed.

Check out http://www.knukonceptz.com for wiring.

 

You could buy a kit, or build your own. The 4channel 4guage kit will work for your amount of wattage. You'll need an extra set of RCA's for the sub amp, as well as a distribution block for power and ground... and a few more feet of 4guage power and ground.

 

Speaker wire, go with 16guage for the 4door speakers to the 4channel. Go overkill so you have enough, I imagine 60-70ft.

 

Subwoofers, go with 12guage.

 

 

5. Will I even be able to use 10W3V3s behind my back seat? If I built the box up to the top port of the plastic, bottom of the window, how much cu. ft. will the box have?

Should. I'd just build and try to estimate internal volume, then use to polyfill to dampen.

6. Minimum and optimum cu. ft. per chamber on the 10W3V3?

I'd go with about .5cubes sealed per woofer, with some polyfill.

7. Would I be ok to not use any bracing, just lots of nails and a good glue?

With this small of an enclosure, no bracing should be needed.

My truck came factory with tweeters in the pillar, components in the front doors, and 5 1/4 coaxles in the rear doors, so I shouldn't have to do any modifications to install the new equipment since there's already locations for them. I could be wrong though and if so, hopefully not too much.

Key word is shouldn't, maybe some slight modifications. I recommend checking out the Speaker forum here for the proper door deadening thread.

Will I need any more adapters, harnesses, etc.? Please please be very specific on all the necessary parts needed for installing my complete system.

If you already have you HU wired and working, you should need anymore adapters. Aside from possible a GM Side post adapter for the battery up front for the main power lead.

Lastly, I know it will be hard for someone to guide me on tuning it, however, I'm sure there has to be someone on here that has the same style truck as I do and more than likey the same equipment, so we should be able to get it pretty close. Then I can fine tune. THANK YOU SO MUCH and ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!

Quickly answered in bold. Let me know if you need anything else...

nG

 

[06dmax00camss 10+ year member]

dbman150, are you sure? Have you personally done it or witnessed it? Are you referring to JL Audio and what series?

billabongcr, I'm set on the brands. I kinda figured if I said budget, that someone was going to say that I didn't need to use JL Audio and Focal. If you read the entire thread, it has some reasoning behind the JL Audio equipment. Also, yes the (2) 10W3V3 will be underpowered with a 500/1, but I have no choice other than the 1000/1 which is overkill and much more expensive.

 

[joeygreyhawk 10+ year member]

Why not one 12" w6 and the 500/1??

 

[billabongcr 5,000+ posts]

or 1 13w3? rms is 500 perfect

 

[06dmax00camss 10+ year member]

Optimum power on the 13W3V3 is 400 watts and the 12W6 looks to be roughly 450-475. Both would match up nice with the 500/1, but neither one of them are going to fit behind my back seat. Keep in mind I have a '06 Silverado 2500HD crew cab. I want to keep it as stealth like as possible. I've been told that there is more air space behind the seat than there is under the seat.

 

[06dmax00camss 10+ year member]

How does Second Skin compare to Dynamat?

What would be better, a kit or separately (wiring)?

Isn't .5 cu. ft. a little small for a 10W3V3?

On the back of my head unit (Alpine IVA-W200), there are 6 inputs/outputs on it (3 black and 3 rear). One set (black and red) has SW by it, the other have F and R. I assume the F is for front speakers, the R is for rear speakers, and SW is for subwoofer.

I'm completely clueless to how all these parts connect.

How and what will connect the head unit to the amps?

Amps to the subs?

Do the subs get connected to the head unit or just be connected through the amps?

Anyone want to draw me up a simple diagram showing me what goes where? Thanks for the help so far and sorry this is so new to me.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

How does Second Skin compare to Dynamat?Superior in heat tolerance and dampening properties.

What would be better, a kit or separately (wiring)?

Personally, I'd go with the kit... and add the items I listed.

Isn't .5 cu. ft. a little small for a 10W3V3?

Nope, If you want... go with .5-.75cubes sealed each....

On the back of my head unit (Alpine IVA-W200), there are 6 inputs/outputs on it (3 black and 3 rear). One set (black and red) has SW by it, the other have F and R. I assume the F is for front speakers, the R is for rear speakers, and SW is for subwoofer.

Correct.

I'm completely clueless to how all these parts connect.

How and what will connect the head unit to the amps?

Through RCA's, you'll have THREE Pairs...

Amps to the subs?

Speaker Wire...

Do the subs get connected to the head unit or just be connected through the amps?

Just the amp.

Anyone want to draw me up a simple diagram showing me what goes where? Thanks for the help so far and sorry this is so new to me.

http://www.bcae1.com (Great learning site)

nG

 

[billabongcr 5,000+ posts]

you probably wont like it, and its not a route id be willing to take..but a guy around here (i used to work at a carwash and he would come in all the time) i think he had an 05 2500 crew, he had a blowthrough with his system in his toolbox. believe he had 4 L7 10s, sounded great. i wouldnt do it, and you prob wont, but just know its an option.

 

[ray@ss 10+ year member]

You dont have much depth behind that seat all though that is still more room than trying to go under.

I have done multiple set ups in these.

You will get right around 1.2cuft after its all said and done.

Ill post a pic of one I did to give you a hinton how it should look.

http://fresnoracing.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=9857

Sure you could try to build up to the window, but you are pretty much doing it for nothing, The top portion of the enclosure would be so tight.. To put it simple, I wouldn't do that.

Hope that helps a little

 

[spudracer326 10+ year member]

WOW!!! THat is one of the nicer installs I ve seen In a while...only thing I didnt like was the component choice....but...just WOW!!! You guy always do such great work......

You dont have much depth behind that seat all though that is still more room than trying to go under.
I have done multiple set ups in these.

You will get right around 1.2cuft after its all said and done.

Ill post a pic of one I did to give you a hinton how it should look.

http://fresnoracing.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=9857

Sure you could try to build up to the window, but you are pretty much doing it for nothing, The top portion of the enclosure would be so tight.. To put it simple, I wouldn't do that.

Hope that helps a little

 

[chucku 10+ year member]

I have the same truck without the diesel. I could only fit 2 10w0 because of mounting depth. I just got the new 10w1 and they are a little shallower, I think the 12w1's would fit also. I have only 5 in of clearance behind the seat. The subs were hitting the seat when I played them loud, so I had to buy grills and mash them down to get my seat to lock back. I dont think youll fit w3's behind there. As far as everything else goes, JL rocks and is quality stuff, I think youll only need a 250/1 if you can only fit 10w1's as they dont need or can handle alot of power. Good luck! Edit, please let us know what you do for the subs as I would love w3's if there is a way to fit them. Thanks, Chuck

 

[ray@ss 10+ year member]

Well thank you, and of course we would have loved to see him do focal.. but its what he wanted/ could afford at the time.