06 Door Deadened (pics, 56k'rs beware...)

bikinpunk
10+ year member

G-g-g-g-g-unity!
Sorry for the DIY narration, I made a tutorial for 8thcivic.com. Anyway, just happy to have it done and thought I would share my pics in case it could help anyone.

I can already tell a HUGE difference in just the one door alone. Getting the passenger's side done tomorrow.

I ordered 40 square feet, which came in sheets of 2 square feet each, therefore I started with 20 sheets of Second Skin Damplifier. I have 12 sheets left now, so it took about 16 square feet for 3 GOOD layers to get the door done. If I'm missing anything here, or anyone has questions let me know. Second Skin Damplifer: $98 for 40 sq ft FTW!

I can already tell a HUGE difference in just the one door alone. Getting the passenger's side done tomorrow.

I ordered 40 square feet, which came in sheets of 2 square feet each, therefore I started with 20 sheets of Second Skin Damplifier. I have 12 sheets left now, so it took about 16 square feet for 3 GOOD layers to get the door done. If I'm missing anything here, or anyone has questions let me know. Second Skin Damplifer: $98 for 40 sq ft FTW!

First steps: Pop off door handle thingamabob (sp?!). Then, apply a VERY thin tipped flat-head screwdriver to the interface of the door's control panel and pry upwards on these 3 locations. The peice pops off pretty easily.

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ARe u serious?! My girl would never do that!!!! SHES SOOO DAMN COOL!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
****!!!!!!!

that's awesome, man.

i had the same dilemma as you, a HUUUUGE gaping hole in the door.

i was too lazy, tho, and i'm just doing kicks.

looks awesome, tho. good job, that must've been pretty tough.

 
Thanks for the positive feedback. It honestly wasn't too hard. Just took a lot of time and patience. I'm lucky my girl helped me because my hands would've never fit inside the door as easily. total time it took was about 5 hours start to finish (including the time it took to go to autozone and buy Acetone to get the gunk off the doors.

More pics:

Disconnect the wires off the black peice.

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Go along the bottom of the door with the screwdriver and pop the door outward. You can get the rest of the door off with fingers after you get a few of them done with the screwdriver.

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Door stock:

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Disconnect all wires.

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After the moisture barrier has been removed. Just peel it off. Don't worry about that tar crap right now.

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Scrape off the tar with a putty knife, or razor (as in this case). Then use Acetone-WORKS LIKE A CHARM- in an abundant amount to get the rest of that crap off. Don't use a little bit, USE A LOT. Be careful though, and use gloves and maybe a paint mask of some sort to keep from inhaling the fumes.

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Door cleaned. Make sure it's cleaned VERY well, otherwise the deadener won't stick well.

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Find a hot chick to help you out. Give her a coke and let her do the work for you. In this case, my fiance helped me out. Use small square, or rectangular peices and little-by-little apply the deadner to the door. Use a roller (we used a paint roller) to help flatten the deadner in hard to reach places.

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I used the moisture barrier to make an outline in cardboard for the huge hole in the door. I cut mine out of a furniture box. Then deadened the inner-side of it.

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Outer skinned dead:

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Test fitting the cardboard cut-out. Use duct-tape to hold the cardboard in place. Then proceed to deaden over the cardboard. Lins had already deadened the inner side of the inner layer while I was cutting.

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Done. I used some of the material off the moisture barrier to act as a baffle behind the speaker. Not sure if that can be made out in the picture though.

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bikinpunk

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G-g-g-g-g-unity!
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