The box under the rear deck was made out of some particle board shelving I got for free. I had to notch the bottom board to clear the wire harness for the fuel pump and the eyelet for the spare tire hold down.
I also had to move the tension rods (spring rods) for the trunk lid. There are 3 notched to adjust the rods and they had to move to the top notch to clear the box.
I used a wood rasp to file off the edges of the box to get a tight slide in pressure fit under the rear deck. I don’t have a router but ¼ or ½ in round over would have worked even better. Once the box is in place under the rear deck I marked where to cut for the ports.
The trunk rods also get in the way of the ports to the rear deck. My car has 6x8 openings on the sides and 7” hole in middle for the optional factory sub. Unfortunately the spring rods block part of the openings and only let you get a 4” port in the center opening and 3” ports on the 6x8 holes. Once marked, I slide the box out of the car, cut holes, test fitted the port tubes, and slide it back under the rear deck.
I made my own ports out of thin wall PVC pipe and flared the ends. The youtube vids that show how to make your own flared ports with a metal bowl and a heat gun have it WRONG! The metal bowl is the wrong shape, it will make the end of the tube wider but can’t make a nice radius flare shape. I use a bunt cake pan. The pan I have makes perfect flare in 4” PVC and ok flare for 3”. I’m still looking to a bigger pan to make 6”ports.
I cut the ports a little short to make sure the flares would fit under the rear deck cover and speaker grills. I figured I’d cut longer ones once I knew how close the fit would be.
