01 Honda Accord Recommendations

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I took a pic of that, in another thread. I will find it.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/522059-water-getting-my-door-speakers.html

here is the thread i posted images of preventing water from getting to door speakers.

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

keep_hope_alive = one of the most helpful members here

 

[Thrall 10+ year member]

A few quick questions before I order my parts in the next few days:

Where do you think is a better spot for the tweeters--in the door panel or the stock area in the dash?

Is there a big difference in SQ between the Boston Acoustics SR60s that I was looking at before compared to the Kicker KS6.2s? After getting the rear baffle to protect the speakers and the front baffle to extend their length the BAs end up being about 2x as much money as the kickers.

Where should I mount the cross-overs for the component speakers? I'm not familiar with the internals of the car's frame and would prefer not to have to run them all the way into the glovebox.

Thanks again!

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

A few quick questions before I order my parts in the next few days:
Where do you think is a better spot for the tweeters--in the door panel or the stock area in the dash?

Is there a big difference in SQ between the Boston Acoustics SR60s that I was looking at before compared to the Kicker KS6.2s? After getting the rear baffle to protect the speakers and the front baffle to extend their length the BAs end up being about 2x as much money as the kickers.

Where should I mount the cross-overs for the component speakers? I'm not familiar with the internals of the car's frame and would prefer not to have to run them all the way into the glovebox.

Thanks again!

what rear baffle? We said not to use that just make a hat out of deadner over and behind the speaker.

Those rubber cups are not good, they flex and vibrate and mess with the sound. You do not want to use them.

 

[Thrall 10+ year member]

Oh, I didn't think it made that much of a difference...it sounded like if you cut the bottom of the baffle off then that would fix that problem. Well, I guess I will have to go with that hat idea if I go with the BAs. Would you be able to answer any of those questions above?

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Where do you think is a better spot for the tweeters--in the door panel or the stock area in the dash?

- Dash. door is too close to you, stage is too low. Dash suffers from some reflection phase interference, but the stage height is better and you can almost get away without T/A. how you place the tweeters in the dash makes a big difference. note that you need to permanently mod the factory tweeter mount to accommodate a larger tweeter, or make your own, and the driver side has very little depth.

Is there a big difference in SQ between the Boston Acoustics SR60s that I was looking at before compared to the Kicker KS6.2s? After getting the rear baffle to protect the speakers and the front baffle to extend their length the BAs end up being about 2x as much money as the kickers.

- you should audition them b4 you buy to decide. I like BA over Kicker across the board. more money up front = better sound. simple as that. make your own baffle for cheap (assuming you have access to a jig saw).

Where should I mount the cross-overs for the component speakers? I'm not familiar with the internals of the car's frame and would prefer not to have to run them all the way into the glovebox.

- you need to run wires from the crossover to each driver (tweeter and woofer). getting through our doors is VERY easy, about 15 min per side. how to do this is shown in my build log, or i can post it here if desired. the glove box saved wire length while maintaining access (when crossovers have adjustable settings). my previous Type-X crossovers had so many settings, i was constantly playing with them, hence the access. if you put them on the doors, they should be on the dry side of the doors. there are some cavities between the door and panel you can use - this is commonly done when the tweeter is on the doors. but as i said before, door tweeter locations are pretty poor locations for sound stage height and require T/A.

 

[Thrall 10+ year member]

Is there any reason why I shouldn't leave the crossovers in the trunk and then run their outputs to the speakers from there? That would seem like the easiest option and would still let me change their settings.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

That is a fine option, just uses more wire. I prefer trunk crossovers so I have more wiring options later, like running active.

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

Keep Hope Alive

Could you please link how to run wires through the door?

I need to redo mine as I am running 150 watts through the factory wires going into the door.

Or do I? I was reading on this site that 150 watts would be 10+ amps through the wire but that is not correct...

Speaker voltage is A/C so it should be 150 / 120 = 1.2 amps (apx)

The factory 22 gauge wire can handle 150 RMS, right or not right?

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

your math is wrong. at 150W you do not have 120V. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

P = I^2 * R

I = SQRT (150W/4ohms)

I = 6.1A

I would upgrade the wire anyway.

as for pulling new wire through the door of a 1998-2002 Accord - see below

locate the single wire harness that feeds the passenger door

remove the harness. at this point you can pull it all the way out the factory opening, or just far enough to gain access for wire routing

keep track of it's location and orientation

pry the rubber boot from both bottom and top - pull the wire from the top enough to gain access to the cabin side of the rubber boot

route a metal rod through the wire bundle - make sure it is not sharp or it could compromise the wiring. you may need to make a slit in the rubber boot - the part that is inside the cabin

tape speaker wire to one side and pull it through - this is CL2 rated 12/2 wire

now you can feed the wire through the openings into the door and cabin. inside the door - use zip ties to secure the speaker wire to factory wire loom so it doesn't interfere with the window track. inside the cabin, route the wire so it is hidden in the dash - securing it to factory split loom every 12" or so.

make sure the rubber boots are fully seated - start on the back side and use a flat screwdriver to push in the rest. plug in the wire harness.