Recent content by SuperJay

Automotive grade safety glass or polycarbonate....

and usually enclosures are lined with RESIN not GLASS to help seal the pores because most people don't understand that the enclosure doesn't resonate as well if it doesn't breathe...

then why did he talk about polycarbonate? read more, talk less

Since you're really only asking about the glass that's what I'll address. you're going to have 44 layers of laminated wood (about 4 inches), and only 3/4" of brittle acrylic or PC. with 15ft^3 of airspace I can only assume you'll be using multiple large diameter subs. This means LOTS of...

XScorpion is ok (read, not great) it will serve its purpose

you don't need rear speakers. I dont' use them. Really, the only reason to have them is for rear seat passengers. i dont' ride in the back, and I don't face the back of the arena at a concert. The sound should come from the front.

If you want to listen to the radio while th key is off you'll need to add a separate power wire to the accessory (red) wire on th eradio. you'll also need to diode isolate the accessory wire coming from the harness so you don't power the whole car with a small wire.

are you looking to turn the amps off while the car is one, or turn your radio on while the car is off?

Is thilo still trying to be an engineer, or did his mommy finally tel him to get a job and move off her couch?

Ken, parallel is easy. just connect the positives together and the negatives together on two or more speakers. That's parallel In your case you would only be connecting 2 speakers to one channel on the amp. KHA is right about choosing the grouping so you can choose between areas on the boat...

you listen to electronica and want to go ported? this makes me sad in the pants. If you want quick, tight bass i think you'd be better served with a sealed enclosure. Unless you plan to build a 4th order enclosure, sealed will give tighter, quicker bass. If you're looking for a 3-5dB gain at...

consider that the P6002 was less than $300 new. Then consider personal value. If it is worth it to YOU to have it repaired (and you're going to get a warranty on that repair) then it's worth it. If you feel that $130 would be better applied toward a different amplifier, then that's the best...

The easiest way to add your sub and amp are to use a TRUNK-LOC from PAC, as KHA recommended. This will be connected to the factory sub, leaving control of the aftermarket sub on the radio, as it is now.

Is it really spoon feeding to be helpful? All that was really done here was send someone to google. Don't be afraid to actually help when people ask for it. I know, most of you feel some sense of entitlement, or elitism because you know how to install a stereo. Hell, I've been doing this for...

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