Sound deadening

[Jimi77 Premium Member]

Okay thank you very much for the help, Do you think it would worth buying resonix’s stage 3 door cards deadening kit for the doors and then buying the rest separately?

Be careful deadening door cards. I deadened a door card once and it lowered the resonant frequency to where it was more noticeable. I found stuffing the space between the door panel and the door with polyfil batting or foam is effective.

 

[Old_Slapper]

I’m soon to do my first build, and willing to fork out the extra money for sound deadening since I have been told it’s worth it. Is there any brands/materials you recommend?

For sound deadening, it all depends on the type of car you have an what you plan on putting in it. ResoNix is a good product, but at $80 for 5-square feet is pretty rediculous. They tested their 120mil sheets to other brand's 90mil sheets. They claim to use a "purer" formula for their Butyl layer, but... I used Siless 80 mil on my cars and you can't hear people talking on my Bluetooth, through the speakers. At $70 for 36 sqft, you can double it up and still be cheaper. If you want more, go with the Siless Hybrid 200mil sheets.

Also, keep in mind that sound deader will add quite a bit of weight to a door. Some cars can't handle too much weight on their door hinges, like Hondas and Toyota compact cars.

 

[supernov4]

For sound deadening, it all depends on the type of car you have an what you plan on putting in it. ResoNix is a good product, but at $80 for 5-square feet is pretty rediculous. They tested their 120mil sheets to other brand's 90mil sheets. They claim to use a "purer" formula for their Butyl layer, but... I used Siless 80 mil on my cars and you can't hear people talking on my Bluetooth, through the speakers. At $70 for 36 sqft, you can double it up and still be cheaper. If you want more, go with the Siless Hybrid 200mil sheets.

Also, keep in mind that sound deader will add quite a bit of weight to a door. Some cars can't handle too much weight on their door hinges, like Hondas and Toyota compact cars.

That's the reason I dont buy resonix cld
I used to get it from don at sound deadener showdown at a good price before he retired

The siless is good i tried both 80mil and 120mil i would recommend anyone to just go straight for the 120mil it's 3mm and way better foil.
I don't recall the prices but I don't think it's all that much more really

 

[Old_Slapper]

That's the reason I dont buy resonix cld
I used to get it from don at sound deadener showdown at a good price before he retired

The siless is good i tried both 80mil and 120mil i would recommend anyone to just go straight for the 120mil it's 3mm and way better foil.
I don't recall the prices but I don't think it's all that much more really

The thickness also depends on where you're putting it. On the outer door skin, I would use the thicker stuff, but on the inner skin, I would use the 50 mil. The panel material will also determine how thick to go. Plastic panels and fiberglass panels don't resonate like steel panels, so a thinner deadener can be used.

 

[supernov4]

The thickness also depends on where you're putting it. On the outer door skin, I would use the thicker stuff, but on the inner skin, I would use the 50 mil. The panel material will also determine how thick to go. Plastic panels and fiberglass panels don't resonate like steel panels, so a thinner deadener can be used.

This is true 80mil stuff is usually good on plastic panels i used up a bunch of it in my jeep and they are pretty solid

 

[slater]

getting ready to finish the doors on the new f150...
Doing sm600 thinsulate on the door cards, already butyl roped the gaps & seems in the cards, along with some cld on the large areas to add some weight.

Cant decide if I want to run the NVX tri layer combo stuff which is butyl, foil, close cell foam, on the inner panel...
or just run cld. & call it done..

doing everything I can as the one time I heard one of these trucks with a system in it, the door panels to the door where an absolute rattly mess as he had zero deadener...

my mti door block off plates & amp rack finally come in this Thursday.....

 

[supernov4]

getting ready to finish the doors on the new f150...
Doing sm600 thinsulate on the door cards, already butyl roped the gaps & seems in the cards, along with some cld on the large areas to add some weight.

Cant decide if I want to run the NVX tri layer combo stuff which is butyl, foil, close cell foam, on the inner panel...
or just run cld. & call it done..

doing everything I can as the one time I heard one of these trucks with a system in it, the door panels to the door where an absolute rattly mess as he had zero deadener...

my mti door block off plates & amp rack finally come in this Thursday.....

Not sure the tri layer would benefit much?
If you are putting the thinsulate
Unless there are surfaces you think might rattle together?
The ccf could help cussion them but won't really help with any sound suppression, thinsulate is pretty good at that

 

[slater]

Not sure the tri layer would benefit much?
If you are putting the thinsulate
Unless there are surfaces you think might rattle together?
The ccf could help cussion them but won't really help with any sound suppression, thinsulate is pretty good at that

Yeah im torn....
You see all these videos showing the tri-layer stuff on the inner skin, like second skin, sound shield, etc, like its a huge bonus....

Even my installer said, he wasnt a fan & prefers just foil / butyl CLD...

But yes, thats my main concern the door card rattling on the inner panel.
But even so, not looking forward to covering every inch of inner door skin to get full coverage, theres tons of contours, holes, wires, obstacles, modules, etc...
Not looking forward to it.

 

[Old_Slapper]

When I worked at DOW Stereo, in San Diego, I had a pretty large wood shop. I used to mess around and build/modify all kinds of sub boxes. They would also allow me to take subs back and try to blow them up. Anyhow, I took a prefab box and lined it with Dynamax. It made the sub hit harder and sound smoother. I did the same with Bazooka tubes, and the same difference happened. You can also use sound deadener on plastic ports. It gets rid of the hollow port sound.

 

[slater]

When I worked at DOW Stereo, in San Diego, I had a pretty large wood shop. I used to mess around and build/modify all kinds of sub boxes. They would also allow me to take subs back and try to blow them up. Anyhow, I took a prefab box and lined it with Dynamax. It made the sub hit harder and sound smoother. I did the same with Bazooka tubes, and the same difference happened. You can also use sound deadener on plastic ports. It gets rid of the hollow port sound.

My installer lined the inside back wall of my pre-fabbed ground shaker box for the JL 12tw3 with some of my left-over amazon basic cld, on my 24 tacoma build...
must be normal practice for those that know...

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

When I worked at DOW Stereo, in San Diego, I had a pretty large wood shop. I used to mess around and build/modify all kinds of sub boxes. They would also allow me to take subs back and try to blow them up. Anyhow, I took a prefab box and lined it with Dynamax. It made the sub hit harder and sound smoother. I did the same with Bazooka tubes, and the same difference happened. You can also use sound deadener on plastic ports. It gets rid of the hollow port sound.

That is so weird that you mentioned this. I did this to my enclosure that has my RF Punch P3 10's in it. I used NOICO 150mil CCD.

 

[Old_Slapper]

My installer lined the inside back wall of my pre-fabbed ground shaker box for the JL 12tw3 with some of my left-over amazon basic cld, on my 24 tacoma build...
must be normal practice for those that know...

I did this back in 1997. I started working at Best Buy in 2001. I introduced this to the district manager, who then posted on the Best Buy Installer site. It took off from there. Later, I saw other companies doing the same.

I put it like this... If it vibrates, it's probably producing unwanted sound and/or interfering with the sound I want. To prevent this unwanted sound, I put sound deadening material on it.

 

[Old_Slapper]

If you think that is weird, look at the constant power wire on your headunit. If it's hooked up to the car factory constant power wire, change it to at least a 12 gauge wire and connect it directly to the battery. You will notice a lot cleaner sound with more bass. You will also notice your radio operating a lot cooler.

 

[slater]

I did this back in 1997. I started working at Best Buy in 2001. I introduced this to the district manager, who then posted on the Best Buy Installer site. It took off from there. Later, I saw other companies doing the same.

I put it like this... If it vibrates, it's probably producing unwanted sound and/or interfering with the sound I want. To prevent this unwanted sound, I put sound deadening material on it.

Word must have got out, he was installing then in the same hood....
You cant keep a secret...

 

[slater]

im tired....
installed the thinsulate on all 4 door cards...
Did the tri-layer on both front door inner panels...
Installed the front block off plates.
I did majority cover of foil cld nvx 91mil on the outer panels a different day on all 4 doors.

Tomorrow I need to deaden the inner door panels on the rear doors & install the block off plates...

Not liking the NVX tri-layer but im sure it will do what it needs to do...
Just doesnt seem as dense as just foil / butyl cld.

Im thinking lay some foil CLD on the ABS block off plates?