CarAudio.com - Hal
AI Bots
Helper Bot
Thanks for sharing your setup! If you have specific questions about your audio system, feel free to ask.
CertifiedHoodClassic
CarAudio.com Exclusive
Have you already checked Crutchfield to see if they have info about installing a new headunit and door speakers? They usually have helpful information like what the stock speakers sizes and locations are, plus what harnesses you might need to put a HU in. It will probably be very easy in an 09 (not so for new cars).
Looks like it has a 160A alt and a single under hood battery from the factory. You could probably get 1-1.5k out of it. I would recommend running some kind of volt meter regardless, even if it's just one of the ones that plugs into a cigarette outlet:
Just to make sure it's keeping up.
If you're averse to building your own enclosure, consider gp car audio enclosures, they have any configuration you would want and real usable air space and port area:
They also sell flat pack un-assembled enclosures that ship flat for much cheaper (you just glue them together yourself):
Double check that those fit. I agree with other users on this site - building your own is always better - but it's not the end of the world if you buy the gp car audio boxes IMO.
Consider running a single quality sub with that power. You have a pretty high budget for such a simple install. Are you set on that memphis? It seems overpriced for what it is. Unless you spend most of the budget on the door speakers, I think you can get something better. Even in the same price for just the woofer, you could get this dayton audio 15 (I haven't personally run dayton audio woofers but people love them):
It has a 3" coil vs the 2.5" in the memphis. Also much more magnet. And I'd wager it sounds much better in addition to being louder. For 20$ US more than the Memphis.
Looks like it has a 160A alt and a single under hood battery from the factory. You could probably get 1-1.5k out of it. I would recommend running some kind of volt meter regardless, even if it's just one of the ones that plugs into a cigarette outlet:
Amazon.com: Car LED Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter with Digital Display,12V/0.1A Battery Voltage Meter for Real-Time Voltage Monitoring,Universal Car Voltage Meters of Car Essentials : Automotive
Buy Car LED Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter with Digital Display,12V/0.1A Battery Voltage Meter for Real-Time Voltage Monitoring,Universal Car Voltage Meters of Car Essentials: Voltmeter - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
Just to make sure it's keeping up.
If you're averse to building your own enclosure, consider gp car audio enclosures, they have any configuration you would want and real usable air space and port area:
They also sell flat pack un-assembled enclosures that ship flat for much cheaper (you just glue them together yourself):
Double check that those fit. I agree with other users on this site - building your own is always better - but it's not the end of the world if you buy the gp car audio boxes IMO.
Consider running a single quality sub with that power. You have a pretty high budget for such a simple install. Are you set on that memphis? It seems overpriced for what it is. Unless you spend most of the budget on the door speakers, I think you can get something better. Even in the same price for just the woofer, you could get this dayton audio 15 (I haven't personally run dayton audio woofers but people love them):
NEW Dayton Audio SS15-22 15" Signature Series DVC Subwoofer 2 Ohm per Coil
Dayton Audio SS15-22 15" Signature Series DVC Subwoofer 2 Ohm per CoilDayton Audio SS15-22 15" Signature Series DVC Subwoofer The Dayton Audio SS15-22 Signature Series 15" Subwoofer is built to deliver serious low-frequency authority in compact high-power systems. Capable of handling 1,100 watts...
It has a 3" coil vs the 2.5" in the memphis. Also much more magnet. And I'd wager it sounds much better in addition to being louder. For 20$ US more than the Memphis.
- Thread Starter
- #4
Thanks for the reply. I've been browsing through Crutchfield; I'm surprised the only box they offer is the JL thats 2k for the single 10w3. I plan on ordering some of the equipment from them due to the insane upcharges through these car audio shops. I'm not set on the Memphis sub, I heard good reviews from it and the power handling is close to what I want. I'll look at that those links.Have you already checked Crutchfield to see if they have info about installing a new headunit and door speakers? They usually have helpful information like what the stock speakers sizes and locations are, plus what harnesses you might need to put a HU in. It will probably be very easy in an 09 (not so for new cars).
Looks like it has a 160A alt and a single under hood battery from the factory. You could probably get 1-1.5k out of it. I would recommend running some kind of volt meter regardless, even if it's just one of the ones that plugs into a cigarette outlet:
Amazon.com: Car LED Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter with Digital Display,12V/0.1A Battery Voltage Meter for Real-Time Voltage Monitoring,Universal Car Voltage Meters of Car Essentials : Automotive
Buy Car LED Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter with Digital Display,12V/0.1A Battery Voltage Meter for Real-Time Voltage Monitoring,Universal Car Voltage Meters of Car Essentials: Voltmeter - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
Just to make sure it's keeping up.
If you're averse to building your own enclosure, consider gp car audio enclosures, they have any configuration you would want and real usable air space and port area:
They also sell flat pack un-assembled enclosures that ship flat for much cheaper (you just glue them together yourself):
Double check that those fit. I agree with other users on this site - building your own is always better - but it's not the end of the world if you buy the gp car audio boxes IMO.
Consider running a single quality sub with that power. You have a pretty high budget for such a simple install. Are you set on that memphis? It seems overpriced for what it is. Unless you spend most of the budget on the door speakers, I think you can get something better. Even in the same price for just the woofer, you could get this dayton audio 15 (I haven't personally run dayton audio woofers but people love them):
NEW Dayton Audio SS15-22 15" Signature Series DVC Subwoofer 2 Ohm per Coil
Dayton Audio SS15-22 15" Signature Series DVC Subwoofer 2 Ohm per CoilDayton Audio SS15-22 15" Signature Series DVC Subwoofer The Dayton Audio SS15-22 Signature Series 15" Subwoofer is built to deliver serious low-frequency authority in compact high-power systems. Capable of handling 1,100 watts...
It has a 3" coil vs the 2.5" in the memphis. Also much more magnet. And I'd wager it sounds much better in addition to being louder. For 20$ US more than the Memphis.
Jimi77
Premium Member
CarAudio.com VIP
Just google your Truck + subwoofer enclosure and you'll find all the more reasonably priced enclosures.
Buck
5,000+ posts
little alien on campus
You have a lot of space to do a big enclosure if you don't mind using the bed. If you only want to run 1000w but can have a big box, you do maybe a pair of 500-600w 15's back there.
Idk if you have instagram but this is a clamshell design I did for 2 15's for an avalanche, I don't think it was ever built, but just showing what you can do:
I can't design anymore. I'm just trying to give you ideas.
It wouldn't be hard to fit an aftermarket alternator on that vehicle and get a bigger sub system, just saying.
Another thing you could consider as if you can use a lot of bed space is maybe doing something like a transmission line type setup, if you wanna run low wattage, that's the most efficient way to do so typically, in my opinion. T-lines are f'n huge but if you can run that in the bed, it'll make the most of 1000w or whatever if you get the right woofer.
You could also do a series 6th, like I did one of those for a big van for 2 sundown e-12's and it worked very well I was told, but it was like an 8 cube net box, around 8 cubes internal net airspace, iirc. But a series 6th is going to be less musical, so that's a drawback.
This was the e-12's series 6th:
Idk if you have instagram but this is a clamshell design I did for 2 15's for an avalanche, I don't think it was ever built, but just showing what you can do:
I can't design anymore. I'm just trying to give you ideas.
It wouldn't be hard to fit an aftermarket alternator on that vehicle and get a bigger sub system, just saying.
Another thing you could consider as if you can use a lot of bed space is maybe doing something like a transmission line type setup, if you wanna run low wattage, that's the most efficient way to do so typically, in my opinion. T-lines are f'n huge but if you can run that in the bed, it'll make the most of 1000w or whatever if you get the right woofer.
You could also do a series 6th, like I did one of those for a big van for 2 sundown e-12's and it worked very well I was told, but it was like an 8 cube net box, around 8 cubes internal net airspace, iirc. But a series 6th is going to be less musical, so that's a drawback.
This was the e-12's series 6th:
Last edited:
I second the lower power large enclosure @Buck recommended, whether its a T-Line, king-cone lower power ported or a 6th just depends on your goals. I've designed ported for 2-10's up to 4-15's for Avalanches. I haven't had the opportunity to design a T-Line but if the bed isn't an issue too much a pair of 12's should have that accuracy and output if done right. A series 6th is what you go after for visceral lows imo. A T-Line can get low but will not have the ultimate output a series 6th has in my experience as most T-Lines are designed around under 1500w. I'd be careful choosing a 6th, usually it tuns into a power-hungry monster seeking the mad lows.
6/5 and pick em'... goals change and be honest with yourself up front.
- Thread Starter
- #8
I'd like to keep a decent amount of space in the bed. I've only had sealed boxes in the past due to space. But I'd like the bass of my last system being the "biggest" I've had. Honestly not sure how the truck handled the Soundigital 5000.1 amp with stock electrical, but it pounded.
Netaudio builds lots of custom boxes for the midgate for any sub configuration. They have a 4 cube box designed for 2 12's for $590. I know shipping will be insane but the last shop I contacted wanted 2k to build a sub box for the little cubby hole for the trunk of my car.
I'm interested in that box with 2 12" Kicker Comp R's (500rms a piece) or go with a custom single 15" sub box with something like a Kicker CompVX (1000rms). All the discussions I've read between 2 12's and 1 15' strongly recommended going with more cone area given the option.
Thanks for the reply!
- Thread Starter
- #9
I definitely have zero knowledge when it comes to the box designs and configurations, I plan on buying a box from the states and having it shipped up here. After having 3 sets of 2 10" shallow subs between the 500–1000-watt range, I always wanted more. Last truck I ran 4 forward facing 8's (700rms a piece) with a seat lift, 5k amp, 0-gauge wiring etc. It would be nice to keep that amount of bass going forward on this truck. But now I finally have the space to try 12's or even a 15'. I'm just trying to decide if a 15" sub is overkill but I've never had the chance to hear one. Just 18's and that was way way too much.
No need to go nuts on the size. Today's subs are designed to work great in smaller enclosures. 4 ported cubes gross for two 12s is no longer "stuffing".
CT Sounds Strato 12 1.5 net (SQ) 1.75 (SPL)
Alpine Type R12 1.6 net
Sundown SA12 1.75 net
Cerwin Vega Stroker12 1.5 net
Just to name a few.
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Similar threads
- Started by aidanmobrien5
- Wiring, Electrical & Installation 2 3 4
- Started by Bear05
- General Car Audio
- Started by Impossibilities
- Subwoofers
- Started by turbokat1320
- Car Audio Build Logs
About this thread
- Start date
- Participants
- Who Replied
- Replies
- 9
- Views
- 1,229
- Last reply date
- Last reply from
- 1aespinoza
