Featured 2010 ford ranger, which door speakers???

So, round 2.....
The system is fine but im a dumb *** & feel the need to make it better....
The CDT hd-62 seem hungry for power to make them loud, sometimes them sound harsh & dont have the clean fidelity, im thinking its mostly due to the recoil red1800.5 amp.
Wonder if due to small cab makes the scenario less forgiving.....
So were going to throw gobs of more money at it...
Picked up the Stinger MT 1800 1M mono block for the 2 10" Hertz MPS 250's

The Hertz Mille Pros sound left an impression on my son, to his ear he's always liked those so thats the direction im leaning now, but going to make its a 3 way so theres a mid driver hoping that makes things more impressive.
Theyre speedy but not as speedy as the Focal kit....
Going to swap out the recoil amp to run just the front components & right now the AudioControl d-6 1200 6 channel DSP Amp is the runner-up....
I know reputation of this unit isnt that great but my installer suggested it & he's had zero issues with them.


I question though if a dsp is going to make that huge of a difference is this small cab of a single cab ranger when theres alot of DSP like settings intergrated into these modern decks which is a: Kenwood DMX908s

Meaning should I dsp / amp combo it just to further fine tune everything along with better speakers,
or just get a better front channel amp & some better 3 way door speakers & forget the dsp?

Under seat real estate is tight so a stand alone dsp isnt really an ideal option.



 
So, round 2.....
The system is fine but im a dumb *** & feel the need to make it better....
The CDT hd-62 seem hungry for power to make them loud, sometimes them sound harsh & dont have the clean fidelity, im thinking its mostly due to the recoil red1800.5 amp.
Wonder if due to small cab makes the scenario less forgiving.....
So were going to throw gobs of more money at it...
Picked up the Stinger MT 1800 1M mono block for the 2 10" Hertz MPS 250's

The Hertz Mille Pros sound left an impression on my son, to his ear he's always liked those so thats the direction im leaning now, but going to make its a 3 way so theres a mid driver hoping that makes things more impressive.
Theyre speedy but not as speedy as the Focal kit....
Going to swap out the recoil amp to run just the front components & right now the AudioControl d-6 1200 6 channel DSP Amp is the runner-up....
I know reputation of this unit isnt that great but my installer suggested it & he's had zero issues with them.


I question though if a dsp is going to make that huge of a difference is this small cab of a single cab ranger when theres alot of DSP like settings intergrated into these modern decks which is a: Kenwood DMX908s

Meaning should I dsp / amp combo it just to further fine tune everything along with better speakers,
or just get a better front channel amp & some better 3 way door speakers & forget the dsp?

Under seat real estate is tight so a stand alone dsp isnt really an ideal option.
Do whatever your installer tells you to do.:ROFLMAO:

cat-mewo.gif
 
The CDT hd-62 seem hungry for power to make them loud, sometimes them sound harsh & dont have the clean fidelity
My first guess on why they don't sound clean is the crossover settings. Or your turning up the volume past the point where the signal starts to clip. That could be your hu or gain settings causing that.
 
My first guess on why they don't sound clean is the crossover settings. Or your turning up the volume past the point where the signal starts to clip. That could be your hu or gain settings causing that.
The recoil has a clip light, so dont think thats it...
It sounds ok / great for what it is, can just be way better by spending way more gobs of money....;)
??
The installer that did my DSP tune / install on my tacoma that isnt the same installer that did this ranger went through & checked all the adjustments on the amp & HU, made some subtle tweaks...
Explained to my kid, he will get more volume & cleaner sound leaving the integrated eq on the hu on the flatter side vs one of the many pre determined eq settings....

Still think I want to make some changes....
The recoil has its limits, it does clip at times but think its due to its limits when it comes to giving those subs what they need.
Thats why I decided better to have a dedicated sub amp. Hoping to get some more punch when it comes to playing all the other genre of music other than the rap / hip hop....
 
If you're getting an amp just for the subs, I say set up the recoil amp to run the fronts in an active 2 way setup. You should be able to get it to sound good with just the HU.

You seem to have a good amount of power for the fronts as is, so I also wonder if maybe you need to turn the output level of the headunit down (the headunit itself is clipping)

If you do want 3 way, get the DSP. No contest between HU settings and DSP. Your headunit doesn't have 24 db/octave crossovers or enough channels. Maybe not that DSP; you could probably do better with a standalone dsp at that price point - but it does seem simple to integrate because it has all 6 channels amped for the fronts and outputs for the sub amp so there's only 2 components there.
 
6.5, 6.7—yeah, pretty much the same.Good drivers, that tweeter isn't a bright silk (not like the Es-1200is are) Power to the set when crossed at 100 Hz is 180 RMS so a good bet would place the need at around 200-225 for headroom. Have you had the HU checked to see if it's sending a clipped signal?
 
6.5, 6.7—yeah, pretty much the same.Good drivers, that tweeter isn't a bright silk (not like the Es-1200is are) Power to the set when crossed at 100 Hz is 180 RMS so a good bet would place the need at around 200-225 for headroom. Have you had the HU checked to see if it's sending a clipped signal?
No idea if the installer checked that or not...
He did mention he used his equipment on it & it is what it is, just dont allow the amp to clip much...
Sounds fine, not like im hearing anything out of the ordinary when the light on the bass knob flashes...
Regardless going to do this in steps & try & change a few things...
Step 1 get our Stinger installed so bass subs are on their own amp...
 
I would slap a 5 or 7 band EQ in the dash.
The Kenwood Excelon dmx908s has:

"Optimal Sound Performance with 13 Band Graphic EQ and Time Alignment​

Use the graphic equalizer to tailor the sound quality to your unique tastes. Additional sound staging is available with the Time Alignment feature, designed to provide optimal sound performance."
 
The Kenwood Excelon dmx908s has:

"Optimal Sound Performance with 13 Band Graphic EQ and Time Alignment​

Use the graphic equalizer to tailor the sound quality to your unique tastes. Additional sound staging is available with the Time Alignment feature, designed to provide optimal sound performance."
I was never a big fan of the EQ's that are built into a deck. Every one I had didn't sound right, so I would add an EQ, which made it sound a lot better and it's a lot easier to adjust.

I know the Recoil amps are budget amps, but I have not heard of any complaints about their sound. I've watched a lot of reviews on it, and they said it was pretty decent sounding amp. However, it is a Chinese cookie-cutter amp, so...
 
It sounds good, I want better….
The installer I had double check all the settings on said & made some minor tweaks thought it sounded good & leave it….
He also mentioned / agreed that the CDTs didn’t sound like they were all that…
Mentioned get a better speaker / dsp….
Make it next level…
 
It sounds good, I want better….
The installer I had double check all the settings on said & made some minor tweaks thought it sounded good & leave it….
He also mentioned / agreed that the CDTs didn’t sound like they were all that…
Mentioned get a better speaker / dsp….
Make it next level…
CDT's have a great rep from many years of hobbyist using them. The fact that they are doing as well as they are and that it was all done by word of mouth is a testament to the products quality.

You cannot EQ out sound signatures, characteristics, nor can you EQ out environmental aspects of the build. That's where DSP is beneficial. measuring a response in any environment is crucial to knowing where to start.

You have to see what you're hearing in order to address any anomalies, that is to get to the next level sound, with the Recoil or any other amp.

All the CDT's I've ever used have been decent, some exceptional in timbre and SQ. DSP is about the only way to tame nulls and peaks, EQ's don’t address that at all.

It's like using the treble/mid/bass adjustments on a head unit. You're not really addressing any issue unless you can see it.
 
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