Noob need advice. New installation

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flyfishing

CarAudio.com Newbie
I just finished building a fiberglass dune buggy (street use only). I am preparing to install a simple stereo system.

I purchased a JL Audio MBT-CTX blue tooth receiver (I only want to stream music from my phone) I also have (2) Alpine 6x9 speakers, I am going to purchase a basic 8" or 10" woofer in a tube (limited space). I also purchased a Planet Audio AC800.4 4 channel amp. I probably should have come here before I began purchasing but it is too late now. Here are my questions.

1. Until I get a woofer can I use this amp to run my 6x9's only without hurting it?
2. My JL Audio receiver only has 2 RCA connectors, do I just buy "Y" splitters to plug into my amp?
3. Once I get my woofer will I just bridge it on 2 of the channels and select the "low pass" setting on the amp.

This is not a system that I am planning on blasting, just standard listening. Nothing over the top.

Thank you in advance.
 

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1. Until I get a woofer can I use this amp to run my 6x9's only without hurting it?
2. My JL Audio receiver only has 2 RCA connectors, do I just buy "Y" splitters to plug into my amp?
3. Once I get my woofer will I just bridge it on 2 of the channels and select the "low pass" setting on the amp.
1. Yes, but you'll need to probably set the high pass on the amp to 60-80hz somewhere so that you do not break your 6x9s
2. Yes, some higher end amps will have a switch to sum inputs buy Y splitters should do the same job.
3. That should do. Be sure you check the minimum impedance rating of two channels bridged and buy a sub to provide the correct ohm load, no lower.
 
1. Yes, but you'll need to probably set the high pass on the amp to 60-80hz somewhere so that you do not break your 6x9s
2. Yes, some higher end amps will have a switch to sum inputs buy Y splitters should do the same job.
3. That should do. Be sure you check the minimum impedance rating of two channels bridged and buy a sub to provide the correct ohm load, no lower.

Thank you very much!
Just one follow up to your response to question 3.
If this is what the spec says "400 Watts Max x 2 Bridged @4 Ohms" Does that mean that my sub woofer needs to be a 4 Ohms rating?

Dan
 
I have another question...
There is nothing in the spec's that tell me how many amps the the amplifier will draw. If it is an 800 watt amp should I just assume that it could draw 66amp at 12v and therefore use a 4 AWG power and ground? The amplifier comes with one 25amp blade fuse???

Thank you again.
 
Thank you very much!
Just one follow up to your response to question 3.
If this is what the spec says "400 Watts Max x 2 Bridged @4 Ohms" Does that mean that my sub woofer needs to be a 4 Ohms rating?

Dan
Yes.Find a SVC (single voice coil) subwoofer 4 ohms rated up to 500rms will be just fine.
 
I have another question...
There is nothing in the spec's that tell me how many amps the the amplifier will draw. If it is an 800 watt amp should I just assume that it could draw 66amp at 12v and therefore use a 4 AWG power and ground? The amplifier comes with one 25amp blade fuse???

Thank you again.
That P.Audio amplifier will be just fine in that Bug as long as you dont play very long with the vehicle off unless you do some type of battery bank set up with the alternator to keep charged correctly. 4 gauge will be just fine for that amplifier and is perfect as it will actually be close to the motor and battery in that vehicle with such a short run. I would do the Big 3 as well of which will help quite a bit also.
 
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Thank you very much!
Just one follow up to your response to question 3.
If this is what the spec says "400 Watts Max x 2 Bridged @4 Ohms" Does that mean that my sub woofer needs to be a 4 Ohms rating?

Dan
Correct. Bear in mind Planet Audio is one of those brands that will NOT make rated power but if you buy an honestly rated 400W woofer that would be a good match.

The amplifier comes with one 25amp blade fuse???

It is usually a bad idea to try to over-fuse. If you find yourself continually opening the 25A fuse you may reconsider but it shouldn't come to that.

Consider the cost between #8 and #4 cable. Spending up to #4 will buy you flexibility to upgrade down the road if that amp isn't cutting it for you and larger wire will typically have thicker insulation and be more resistant to failure from wear and tear. Most people here would recommend over-sizing power and ground cables if possible, the only drawback is size/weight/cost so if you can afford that, the bigger the better.
 
You guys are awesome. Thank you for all the advice. The run from my battery to the amp will be about 2' so I don't mind purchasing the #4 wire.

Thank you all again. I think I know where I am headed now!
 
You guys are awesome. Thank you for all the advice. The run from my battery to the amp will be about 2' so I don't mind purchasing the #4 wire.

Thank you all again. I think I know where I am headed now!
Make sure you get OFC wire rather than AWG. It will last longer and corrosion at a minimum with better conductivity as well.
 
Make sure you get OFC wire rather than AWG. It will last longer and corrosion at a minimum with better conductivity as well.
Thank you. I just looked that up. I didn't even know there was a difference. Considering that all my components have short wire distance, the extra cost for the OFC will be very little.

Dan
 
Thank you. I just looked that up. I didn't even know there was a difference. Considering that all my components have short wire distance, the extra cost for the OFC will be very little.

Dan
And it will be worth every penny spent. AWG corrodes faster and the strands disintegrate and have to be cut back and refreshed almost yearly to keep a good source of conductivity verses true copper strands that may take a bit longer to corrode. always leave yourself approx 4-6-8 inches( I like to go 6) to cut back and refresh in the future so you will not have a short reconnect source/too short of wiring
 
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flyfishing

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