My return to the Car Audio scene

[Mr Finance]

Hello folks. My name is Frank and ive been into car audio since i was 15. Im now 42 so do some math if your interested. Anyways i retired from the military and decided to get back into car audio as ive always just really been drawn to the music i guess. I love Bass. My last system that i did was a wall of 15'' fosgates in the back of my expedition, but that was back in 2007. I havent really had anything since then to speak of. I recently got the bug though, so i bought 2 12 Sundown XV3D1s and a Salt 4 along with an audiocontrol epicenter micro for a good clean signal from the stock HU. I may double down on the subs though. I am running an additional battery as well as a mechman 370 amp alt for the additional power needs. Its good to be back.

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[1aespinoza Premium Member]

the additional power needs.

Welcome back. I see you went big upon your return, nice. Time to upgrade that front stage.

 

[Mr Finance]

I agree. Im thinking of going with an Audiocontrol 6 channel amp, havent decided what speakers yet though. i have alot of research to do on good quality components.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Welcome aboard. I don't know of anybody using audiocontrol branded amps, but they've always been a trustworthy brand so I'd have good expectations.

You might could check out the sales and closeouts over at CDT website on their components. I got some 3 way sets from them last summer on clearance and I'm pretty happy with them.

I am not so impressed with the Sundown X series subs, they're terribly inefficient, but the SALT amps are going to be about as good as you can get as far as Korean made half bridge.

 

[Firewalker]

Lots of people at DIYMA run the Audiocontrol amplifiers and DSP setups with a lot of success.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Welcome aboard. I don't know of anybody using audiocontrol branded amps, but they've always been a trustworthy brand so I'd have good expectations.

You might could check out the sales and closeouts over at CDT website on their components. I got some 3 way sets from them last summer on clearance and I'm pretty happy with them.

I am not so impressed with the Sundown X series subs, they're terribly inefficient, but the SALT amps are going to be about as good as you can get as far as Korean made half bridge.

Those SALT amps need to be run at .5 to put out real power. A guy here on Saturday clamped 1,600 watts on his SALT4 wired to one ohm. Not good. Especially for a $1,300 amp. They are great amps if ran right.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Those SALT amps need to be run at .5 to put out real power. A guy here on Saturday clamped 1,600 watts on his SALT4 wired to one ohm. Not good. Especially for a $1,300 amp. They are great amps if ran right.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Those dyno's aren't real World numbers. They don't take into account impedance rise. Real World clamped numbers is what matters.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

If anything they are real numbers. They let you know what the amp puts out at each ohm load. It’s up to the installer as to how much rise messes with those numbers

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

They don't take into account impedance rise.

So the fact that their "4K" rated amp makes 4000W into 2 ohm and almost 8000W into 1 ohm doesn't count if Johnny Chucklefuck only gets 1500W driving it into 8 ohm?

Are you serious? WTF is even wrong with you?

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

So the fact that their "4K" rated amp makes 4000W into 2 ohm and almost 8000W into 1 ohm doesn't count if Johnny Chucklefuck only gets 1500W driving it into 8 ohm?

Are you serious? WTF is even wrong with you?

There's a lot wrong with me but not this. If you want to clamp the rated power out of a SALT amp then you better wire it to .5 and have your electrical straight. Who said eight ohms? He is wired to one ohm on four X8's. He is rising to four ohms and only clamped 1,600 watts. That's why people wire to .5 and hope to only rise to 1 or 1.5 ohm. You will never clamp what you are wired to. You will always have impedance rise. Facts. All this talk that an amp does rated is BS unless you actually clamp it and prove it.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

What the f are you talking about??? You can’t say you have the amp wired at 1 ohm but it’s not putting out what it’s rated because you’re only getting 1600 because of impedance rise.

I understand what you’re saying but your saying the amp isn’t putting out it’s rated power which is false.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

What the f are you talking about??? You can’t say you have the amp wired at 1 ohm but it’s not putting out what it’s rated because you’re only getting 1600 because of impedance rise.

I understand what you’re saying but your saying the amp isn’t putting out it’s rated power which is false.

I'm saying that if you want the rated 1 ohm watts then you better wire it to .5. If you are wired to one ohm then you will most likely be between 2 - 3 ohms after rise. I just get tired of hearing people say that they are wired to one ohm and stating that they are feeding their subs the one ohm rated power. That's a fallacy. I learned that shitt real quick when I clamped my SIA3500.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

So the fact that their "4K" rated amp makes 4000W into 2 ohm and almost 8000W into 1 ohm doesn't count if Johnny Chucklefuck only gets 1500W driving it into 8 ohm?

Are you serious? WTF is even wrong with you?

Dyno numbers are a joke. It's not real World testing.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

But you’re saying the dyno’s aren’t real which is false. The dyno tells you what that amp puts out at the rated voltage and ohm load. It’s not on the manufacturer to determine your impedance rise to tell you what you’ll really see.