Mid Range questions

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Rcn11thacr

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I have a 2008 GMC Duramax crew cab with a 275 amp alternator that I gutted the interior, top to bottom, & put 100mil Kilmat and Dynopad in. I’ve ran a 1:0 power line, 18ga 9 speedwire conductor from the in dash Sony XAV-601BT, and 12ga leads going to all 4 doors. The last time I did a real stereo install, RCA’s were the go to thing. Now I understand using the high outputs from the stereo is better(?) so I ran this speedwire.
Currently, the radio is hooked up to the factory speakers and all of the aforementioned items are laid in place for future plans “I have yet to decide”. Now to my question.
I want to do a decent SQ build. Nothing that will go to a show or be in a competition. I want good mid-range sound. Thinking somewhere around 125-150w range for the mids. Currently I believe the doors have 6.5/6.75 factory size speakers.
Is it better to have more of them or go larger? I.e. say a single 8 inch or 6x9, or twins of the factory size?
I plan to mount the tweezers high in the A pillars, sub (or subs) who knows right now. I’m thinking about installing 2 pair of 8’s in the read doors as my subs. It doesn’t fit into my SQ build ideas (at all), but it would eliminate a need for a box. Something like the T series Kickers. I’d much rather have Q class, but if I could squeeze 2 eight inch T series Kickers in each rear door, that would really be cool. I primarily listen to rock/heavy metal, but have been known to slip in some of my old school CD’s of Magic Mike to make my kids smile. So I’m not against being called a base head. Almost 30 years ago I won 1st place in the state of Fla in the 600w class w/2 12in Kickers & all MbQuart mids & highs, w/a 3 amp set up @139.1db @100% total clarity for SQ using 6th order quasi band pass box.
Have I lost my mind? What’s everyone think?
 

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Last edited:
RCA’s were the go to thing. Now I understand using the high outputs from the stereo is better(?)
RCA's are still the preferred method. High outputs are when you wish to retain OEM radio. And if you have an OEM amp, you use the speed9 wire to bypass it. From speaker outputs to LOC to amp. You can also use speed9 to avoid running new wire to OEM locations in non-amped vehicles.

2 eight inch T series Kickers in each rear door,
I think flexing will be an issue which will affect bass performance.
Good job on the deadening. With that you will not need to use larger or more speakers than what fits in OEM locations.
 
8 is too big for a good midrange. Go with the 6'" and do multis if you are also looking for dB gain.
Others will have different opinions I'm sure, but I never did large speakers in a door. it's a door, not a speaker box. An 8 can make appreciable bass and a door mount wouldn't do it justice.

You looking for overall smooth FR, or peaky mids and lots of bass?
 
RCA's are still the preferred method. High outputs are when you wish to retain OEM radio. And if you have an OEM amp, you use the speed9 wire to bypass it. From speaker outputs to LOC to amp. You can also use speed9 to avoid running new wire to OEM locations in non-amped vehicles.
I wasn’t aware of the distinction between factory and aftermarket in this case. Thanks for the clarification

[QUOTE
I think flexing will be an issue which will affect bass performance.
Good job on the deadening. With that you will not need to use larger or more speakers than what fits in OEM locations.
I concur and was concerned about over extending/ passing the excursion limit , which is why I asked. I assume that’s what you mean by flexing. Thanks, I currently have over 4 boxes of deadening in the floor, walls, & ceiling, and have not done the doors yet. I hate a vehicle with a stereo that rattles. So just use better quality speakers of the same size and call it a day?
 
I had not thought about overexcursion but good call. What I meant is panel flexing which will absorb some of the energy of the bass notes muting their impact. Good quality 6.5 full range are plenty for 125-150 watts on the highway with windows open, more so with a fully deadened vehicle with closed windows.
 
I had not thought about overexcursion but good call. What I meant is panel flexing which will absorb some of the energy of the bass notes muting their impact.
Ah, understood. Hopefully the extra deadener I plan to add to the panel will help with the flex.
 
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