Help Upgrading Audio on Tight Budget

[Indigo2003]

I just got a 2004 WRX and the speakers sound absolutely terrible. I was planning on upgrading my speakers, but I don't know much about car audio and I don't know where to start, especially on a tight budget of $400-$500. I'm not looking for a top-of-the-line system, I just want my music to sound pretty good without breaking the bank. I'll definitely be replacing my HU and front speakers, but beyond that, I just have a ton of questions:

• Should I replace the rear door speakers?
• Should I get 2-way, 3-way, or component speakers (especially since my WRX has separate tweeters in the front doors)?
• The doors in the WRX are very shallow, so should I get 6.5" speakers or are 5.25" fine?
• Should I get an amp given my budget, or would it be more cost-efficient to just get better speakers?
• Would it be doable to also buy a sub, and if so, are powered subs a good idea since they tend to be cheaper?
• What should I expect to spend on each component?
• Which ones are worth purchasing with my budget (e.g. just speakers and a HU, or add an amp)?

Sorry for the long post; I really don't know anything about car audio. Also, my WRX does not have the stock sub under the passenger seat. Thanks in advance.

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[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

6-½" coax up front and 5-¼" coax in the rear. Look at Infinity, JBL, and Polk Audio.

 

[Indigo2003]

6-½" coax up front and 5-¼" coax in the rear. Look at Infinity, JBL, and Polk Audio.

So just go with speakers and a new head unit and don't get an amp or sub?

 

[RobGMN 5,000+ posts]

A different point of view:
Even a modest set of speakers can sound pretty darn good when supplemented by a proper subwoofer, especially if you can EQ the tunes you are feeding them.
Most stock speakers are not that bad, but get overtaxed by doing work they are not designed for, along with sometimes being made to sound bad due to poor location choice. Most people could not tell the difference between stock and upgraded speakers (when properly EQd) unless the stock ones were SO shltty that they could not even be EQ'd to sound "flat".

On that budget and with careful shopping, you could get a decent head unit that has DSP correction, plus a sub and amp.
Buy it from the right store and you could get free head unit install plus wiring to mount the sub for about a hundred bucks.
Will it be a show vehicle? No.
Will it sound 100x better and give you lots of smiles until you get rid of car or decide to do little upgrades here and there? YES.

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

What specifically don't you like about your current stereo? That's the ultimate question to decide what to upgrade.

A wrx is a performance vehicle; are you ok with added weight? Older sti's didn't even have a radio.

I would start with some dynamat or foam speaker baffles using the speakers you have. If you're not sure, always start with the cheapest solution.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

So $400-500 for head unit, speakers, amp, wiring and adapters? That's gonna be tight. Also you're gonna need to deaden the doors or else you are just wasting your time.

 

[Indigo2003]

A different point of view:
Even a modest set of speakers can sound pretty darn good when supplemented by a proper subwoofer, especially if you can EQ the tunes you are feeding them.
Most stock speakers are not that bad, but get overtaxed by doing work they are not designed for, along with sometimes being made to sound bad due to poor location choice. Most people could not tell the difference between stock and upgraded speakers (when properly EQd) unless the stock ones were SO shltty that they could not even be EQ'd to sound "flat".

On that budget and with careful shopping, you could get a decent head unit that has DSP correction, plus a sub and amp.
Buy it from the right store and you could get free head unit install plus wiring to mount the sub for about a hundred bucks.
Will it be a show vehicle? No.
Will it sound 100x better and give you lots of smiles until you get rid of car or decide to do little upgrades here and there? YES.

This is really interesting; I hadn't really considered leaving the stock speakers. However, I don't think this is an option for me. My speakers currently rattle at very low volume without changing any equalizer settings (if you count the +/- treble/bass buttons as an eq), even with music that doesn't have a whole lot of bass.

 

[Indigo2003]

What specifically don't you like about your current stereo? That's the ultimate question to decide what to upgrade.

A wrx is a performance vehicle; are you ok with added weight? Older sti's didn't even have a radio.

I would start with some dynamat or foam speaker baffles using the speakers you have. If you're not sure, always start with the cheapest solution.

My current stereo has almost no bass and rattle even at low volumes. I don't think I've heard many car stereos worse than mine. I'm not looking for a super high end system, but I do want to be able to enjoy my music at moderate volumes and feel the bass a little bit without breaking the bank.

Yes, I'm okay with adding weight. A usable stereo outweighs any performance loss to me.

Should I still try dynamat or baffles given how bad my current speakers are?

 

[Indigo2003]

So $400-500 for head unit, speakers, amp, wiring and adapters? That's gonna be tight. Also you're gonna need to deaden the doors or else you are just wasting your time.

Yeah, I'm starting to realize that. I don't really need a touchscreen HU and I found one for $90 that I think would work well: JVC KD-X370BTS. Also how necessary is an amp? Like I said, I really don't know a lot about car audio.

 

[Firewalker]

I would save up some more money. Pick up some Second Skin Sound Deadener for the front doors, some baffles for the speakers you do choose, do a component system in the front doors, 4 channel amplifier for them along with a new head unit and of course 1/0 in OFC or welding wire in case you ever want to upgrade to a set of subwoofers if that is not something you want to do then 4 gauge in OFC or welding wire will work fine for the 4 channel. For the rear either do a cheap set of coaxials run off the head unit or leave the stock ones in and just have it faded more towards the front.

JVC Head units and Kenwood are the same company. That only does bluetooth and what not. I would find one that has at least a CD player, at least 6 channel rca outputs that are 4V. Heck I still use a Ipod loaded with over 3.5K in songs and my cd's as well.

 

[nauc 10+ year member]

ditch the rears

Sony DSX-GS80

Digital media receiver (does not play discs)

www.crutchfield.com

Hertz DSK 130.3

Dieci Series 5-1/4" component speaker system

www.crutchfield.com

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

My current stereo has almost no bass and rattle even at low volumes. I don't think I've heard many car stereos worse than mine. I'm not looking for a super high end system, but I do want to be able to enjoy my music at moderate volumes and feel the bass a little bit without breaking the bank.

Yes, I'm okay with adding weight. A usable stereo outweighs any performance loss to me.

Should I still try dynamat or baffles given how bad my current speakers are?

I would still try dynamat or baffles. They will NOT make your stereo sound worse.

Can you tell what is rattling? Burnt voice coils can sound like rattling. If you push in the speaker's cone and hear any scraping sounds, the voice coil is burnt, and the only solution is a new speaker.

 

[Indigo2003]

I would save up some more money. Pick up some Second Skin Sound Deadener for the front doors, some baffles for the speakers you do choose, do a component system in the front doors, 4 channel amplifier for them along with a new head unit and of course 1/0 in OFC or welding wire in case you ever want to upgrade to a set of subwoofers if that is not something you want to do then 4 gauge in OFC or welding wire will work fine for the 4 channel. For the rear either do a cheap set of coaxials run off the head unit or leave the stock ones in and just have it faded more towards the front.

JVC Head units and Kenwood are the same company. That only does bluetooth and what not. I would find one that has at least a CD player, at least 6 channel rca outputs that are 4V. Heck I still use a Ipod loaded with over 3.5K in songs and my cd's as well.

Ok. How much would enough deadener for the doors cost? Also, what does "1/0 in OFC or welding wire" mean exactly? Again, very new to all of this. Is it an issue having different speakers in the back than in the front, or would I even notice in the front seats? Also, nauc suggested just getting a head unit with a built-in amp. Would this be sufficient? So far, I'm leaning towards upgrading the front speakers and head unit and either leaving the rears or replacing them with a cheap pair that at least don't sound terrible. No sub yet. Still on the fence about the amp though.

Didn't realize they were the same company. I don't really need a CD player, I'll almost exclusively be playing music from my phone.

 

[Indigo2003]

I would still try dynamat or baffles. They will NOT make your stereo sound worse.

Can you tell what is rattling? Burnt voice coils can sound like rattling. If you push in the speaker's cone and hear any scraping sounds, the voice coil is burnt, and the only solution is a new speaker.

I can't tell what is rattling. It is definitely coming from the speakers though, not from other parts of the car vibrating. I'll definitely check if I hear any scraping. I would need to remove the door panel right?

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I would spend almost all your money on the fronts. I'd get a nice component set up front and a strong 2 channel for up front.

You could run some cheaper midranges-only in the rear, or midbasses for some rear-fill sound.