Best 12 or 15 in $150ish range

Because Korea = China and PCB manufacturing = loudspeaker manufacturing. Also implying """everybody""".

I guess you like hyperbole a lot, but no, personally I wouldn't run any of those companies current line of subs myself and if my subs vanished tomorrow I'd be trying to get my hands on some DD.
Also implying that a company like Alpine or Harmon International who owns their own factory in the far east, does their own in house R&D here, and tightly controls QC in their overseas facilities = just getting your brand name slapped on something out of a catalog from JLD.

Yeah, you keep telling yourself that. But if you believe you can make the exact same quality equipment here in the USA and support your brick and mortar dealers for 30% cheaper you should start up your own audio company and put those other guys out of business.

They do look pretty similar though!
Screenshot_20200919-185415_Samsung Internet.jpg
Screenshot_20200919-185606_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Yea I'm not a noob just have not done anything with audio for a bit and I'm always interested in new brands. I've ran most of what has been mentioned, DC AB SQ and so on.

I was looking a vids and came across deaf bonce and have been researching the Machete M1 Sport V2 15. Looks like it performs nice at 175 shipped I think and 950 rms
I run deaf bonce, and I have mixed feelings about them. If you have a local distributor, I'd say go for it. A good warranty is worth splurging on.

Edit: I posted the same quote twice.
 
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Way to fuel it! I feel like @Bobbytwonames shoukd change his profile name to @bobbythecuckwaffle....that name has pop

i said it too but my propensity to recommend ab Subs Is budget driven which in the sub realm a relatively simple tried and true design manufactured in China Doesn’t overly impact an unsophisticated ear. So like all you guys that have had dc subs, dd’s, et you can personally hear a difference when uses in apples to apples applications. The only reason korean amps gets brought up is because they make Typically make amps that put our reaL+ Power, wire at .5 ohm, And withstand Electrical drops better. Chinese amps don’t ever hit that trifecta. And to get that in a us brand amp would cost you double or triple.

when users come on here saying they want “big bass but are looking for more sq and oh by the way they have little space and they have a small budget and love jl“..that’s like a whole basket of ratard. I think filtering through these kind of requests and the plethora of answers educates the op. But if through all the responses we still don’t know the op’s sub total budget, airspace, and one or two key output priorities then we are probably not providing the right guidance or the op is looking for validation of their own opinion.

You can kiss my dikk also. I'm recommending the **** that I've actually used in real life. I highly doubt that all you guys have ran Dayton in your daily setups, I have. I answered the OP's original question, in the budget he wanted, and experience with the recommended subs. I'd like to see pics of everybody's setup who is recommending Dayton. Start posting them, I'll wait. Pictures dates and times next to them. Crickets, watch!
 
I've yet to see one video or picture of a Dayton setup. Everybody jumps on the Dayton suggestion, but let's see some pics and hear some videos of them. Break out Dayton lovers! I would actually like to see and hear them! Dates and times included please.
 
run deaf bonce. I ha

I run deaf bonce, and I have mixed feelings about them. If you have a local distributor, I'd say go for it. A good warranty is worth splurging on.

Ok so explain your mixed feelings for them. Getting companys to honor sub warranties are difficult anyway.
 
You can kiss my dikk also. I'm recommending the **** that I've actually used in real life. I highly doubt that all you guys have ran Dayton in your daily setups, I have. I answered the OP's original question, in the budget he wanted, and experience with the recommended subs. I'd like to see pics of everybody's setup who is recommending Dayton. Start posting them, I'll wait. Pictures dates and times next to them. Crickets, watch!
Eat a snickers dude. You’re not Bobbytwonames when you’re hungry. I was totally joking and through to you of all people would laugh. If you’ve run those Dayton’s then you may have a point but if you’ve run Other Dayton Products here and there it doesn’t make you an expert on Dayton. Specs matter. Also I’ve Touched and heard a 12” ultimax In a home enclosure and it seemed worthy.
 
They do look pretty similar though!
Yes, because DD 95xx is the sub that China has been trying to make knockoffs of since at least 2007-2008 with the Konaki. China even makes knockoff DD-Z motors which have been sold under a couple brand names and are still available on Alibaba. Soundqubed has some affiliation to DD and their stuff started out as Chinese made DD knockoffs, DD Redline series is straight Chinese made to DD specs, but they will always be outperformed by and lower quality than the stuff they build in-house with American made parts.

It is telling that even the companies who sell most forum boner subs will buy American made coils and ship them to China for assembly for their higher end stuff.
 
Ok so explain your mixed feelings for them. Getting companys to honor sub warranties are difficult anyway.
I have two DB-SA2615's on an Orion XTR2500.1dz. I built the box to specs.

They get decently loud and would be louder if I could keep voltage up at my amp (single run of 1/0 is my bottleneck). I'm happy with price : performance; I paid $176 each on sale for 1500rms subs. I'm happy with the sound, but not the bandwidth; lower notes hit hard and output diminishes quickly as frequency rises (still below LPF). They do awesome on Lil Wyte's song Oxycotton, and yes I know I'm getting old! I can't speak for the quality, as I'm currently sitting with one open voice coil. It is entirely possible that the issue was caused by my amp clipping/cutting out, which is why I am not ready to bad-mouth Deaf Bonce. However, I find it unusual that the sub doesn't smell burnt and feels perfectly fine when I push the cone in, and the other voice coil of the bad sub measures about the same resistance as both voice coils on the good sub, but one voice coil has no continuity. When I cooked my L7, it stunk up the whole vehicle and the entire garage after I pulled the sub out of the enclosure, and it locked up the cone because the voice coil was scraping so bad..

My biggest gripe is that they seem to discontinue models rather frequently. I bought these subs in late April, and they are already discontinued and they do not have any leftover in stock. If I screwed up and it cost me a sub, fine. Let me pay for my mistake and buy a new one, even if they aren't on sale anymore. Instead, now I get to ship my sub from Bismarck, ND to Miami, FL on my dime so they can decide if it is covered under warranty or not. I don't even know what the best case scenario is, since I doubt they would rewind a voice coil if it's bad.

Anyway, that's where my mixed opinion comes from. My JY Power HP-40 should be here any day now, so that should rule out my electrical on future subs.

Edit: had to add spaces in "price : performance" because it turned : P into a gay smiley face.
 
I have two DB-SA2615's on an Orion XTR2500.1dz. I built the box to specs.

They get decently loud and would be louder if I could keep voltage up at my amp (single run of 1/0 is my bottleneck). I'm happy with price : performance; I paid $176 each on sale for 1500rms subs. I'm happy with the sound, but not the bandwidth; lower notes hit hard and output diminishes quickly as frequency rises (still below LPF). They do awesome on Lil Wyte's song Oxycotton, and yes I know I'm getting old! I can't speak for the quality, as I'm currently sitting with one open voice coil. It is entirely possible that the issue was caused by my amp clipping/cutting out, which is why I am not ready to bad-mouth Deaf Bonce. However, I find it unusual that the sub doesn't smell burnt and feels perfectly fine when I push the cone in, and the other voice coil of the bad sub measures about the same resistance as both voice coils on the good sub, but one voice coil has no continuity. When I cooked my L7, it stunk up the whole vehicle and the entire garage after I pulled the sub out of the enclosure, and it locked up the cone because the voice coil was scraping so bad..

My biggest gripe is that they seem to discontinue models rather frequently. I bought these subs in late April, and they are already discontinued and they do not have any leftover in stock. If I screwed up and it cost me a sub, fine. Let me pay for my mistake and buy a new one, even if they aren't on sale anymore. Instead, now I get to ship my sub from Bismarck, ND to Miami, FL on my dime so they can decide if it is covered under warranty or not. I don't even know what the best case scenario is, since I doubt they would rewind a voice coil if it's bad.

Anyway, that's where my mixed opinion comes from. My JY Power HP-40 should be here any day now, so that should rule out my electrical on future subs.

Edit: had to add spaces in "price : performance" because it turned : P into a gay smiley face.


Who are the dealers? Or where can I order a machete sport v2 if I want one
 
Eat a snickers dude. You’re not Bobbytwonames when you’re hungry. I was totally joking and through to you of all people would laugh. If you’ve run those Dayton’s then you may have a point but if you’ve run Other Dayton Products here and there it doesn’t make you an expert on Dayton. Specs matter. Also I’ve Touched and heard a 12” ultimax In a home enclosure and it seemed worthy.

So, I guess that we're comparing home audio setups to car audio setups now. In that case, my Yamaha 10" would be a great fit for the OP. I'm still waiting to see all these Dayton setups that everybody is suggesting. I was told to only suggest stuff that I actually have experience with. The Alpine Type S or the AB Elite would be the OP's best options for his budget. Even the XR would work. Not sure what kind of bass the OP is looking for. SQ, SPL, or SQL.
 
Why do you have to run a setup to be able to suggest it? Why are you saying people who haven’t ran Dayton can’t speak about them? As crazy as it may sound (sarcasm), I know people who run different setups and talk to others about their setups and listen to demos. Just because I don’t personally have Dayton doesn’t mean I can’t recommend them when I have heard them in person, have touched them in person and do a lot of reading online to know the setup I experienced wasn’t a one off fluke.
 
Not onl
Why do you have to run a setup to be able to suggest it? Why are you saying people who haven’t ran Dayton can’t speak about them? As crazy as it may sound (sarcasm), I know people who run different setups and talk to others about their setups and listen to demos. Just because I don’t personally have Dayton doesn’t mean I can’t recommend them when I have heard them in person, have touched them in person and do a lot of reading online to know the setup I experienced wasn’t a one off fluke.

Not only have I touched them, but I've ran two Dayton 10's in a 2004 Explorer behind the third seat. I heard them on real life music in a car, not a 5.1 (or bigger) surround system in a house. Just like I'm not going to recommend my Infinity surround speakers in my home system or my definitive sub for a car audio system. It is what it is. If you want to recommend Dayton because Jurassic Park sounded good at your buddies house, then, so be it. No worries.
 
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