Have a Old School punch 250x2 whats true output? Need sub Recommendations.

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Yireh

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Have a Old School punch 250x2 whats true output? Im building a system to go in a Cadillac cts, not looking for spl purely but want some loudness. I have about 300 to spend looking for info on which sub to pick. Looking to run bridged at 4ohm for max output it's not 1 ohm stable.
 
Have a Old School punch 250x2 whats true output? Im building a system to go in a Cadillac cts, not looking for spl purely but want some loudness. I have about 300 to spend looking for info on which sub to pick. Looking to run bridged at 4ohm for max output it's not 1 ohm stable.

Realistically probably not a whole lot more than rated.

A few words of warning:
Those old class A/B amps are not efficient in size or current demands. They'll run hot and draw a lot more than modern class D. Though on 500W range that's not such a big deal as far as taxing your electrical system but you'll need to mind is has some space around it for shedding heat. Also electrolytic capacitors can start to fail after about 20 years so if it's that old it could give up the ghost at any time just from old age of components on the board.

If I were buying low-ish power sub to get loud and sound good right now I'd look into the Adire re-boot lineup. The ones from 20 years ago are still in circulation and are competitive so I'd have high hopes for the new releases.
 
Realistically probably not a whole lot more than rated.

A few words of warning:
Those old class A/B amps are not efficient in size or current demands. They'll run hot and draw a lot more than modern class D. Though on 500W range that's not such a big deal as far as taxing your electrical system but you'll need to mind is has some space around it for shedding heat. Also electrolytic capacitors can start to fail after about 20 years so if it's that old it could give up the ghost at any time just from old age of components on the board.

If I were buying low-ish power sub to get loud and sound good right now I'd look into the Adire re-boot lineup. The ones from 20 years ago are still in circulation and are competitive so I'd have high hopes for the new releases.
so pretty much to be safe would it be best to buy a new sub amp combo for 4-500 than to buy a sub to fit this amp? I also have some power acoustik fubr 12s but they don't sound very good and require a true 600 w rms to bump.
 
so pretty much to be safe would it be best to buy a new sub amp combo for 4-500 than to buy a sub to fit this amp? I also have some power acoustik fubr 12s but they don't sound very good and require a true 600 w rms to bump.
Just fair warning I guess. Depending on which Punch it is and what kind of shape it's in you may be able to sell it for a good price as there's a lot of folks who collect old school RF amps. So if you could say sell/trade it for something more modern that would get you into the 500-600W range I'd say that would be optimum.

Otherwise, if you own it already may as well give it a whirl. Seek out a sub that's dual 2 ohm coil if possible, it'll allow you to bridge the Punch to 4 ohms (where it should be safe) and also run at 1 ohm down the road if you do wind up updating with a new amp.

Power Acoustik is flea market tier but if you can build your own box you may as well give that a whirl too. You may just be happy enough with what you own already.
 
So more than 3 cu ported?
Yes. The square kickers I've seen that really get down all were in boxes that more line up with what comparable cone area round subs want. The 12" square will want more like 4-5 cube net and certainly more than 3" round port. You may get by with a smaller sealed box, I've never personally seen them sealed so I can't really say how they do.
 
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