Help with gain setting with line output converter

verdi73

CarAudio.com Newbie
Ok so I know that this has been asked a thousand times but I still don't understand. I drive a honda civic with stock radio. I have both the line output converter and the amplifier at max gain setting and I feel like the sub can still be pushed farther. I know its bad to push them to max but when I lower down the gain I can barely hear the sub. My stock speakers are really loud and turning my head unit up past more than 20 (max volume is 40) has lots of distortion in them.

My equipment is
Skar audio SDR-12 600 watt RMS
Skar audio RP-800.1D | 800 WATT
Scoche line output converter
 
Ok so I know that this has been asked a thousand times but I still don't understand. I drive a honda civic with stock radio. I have both the line output converter and the amplifier at max gain setting and I feel like the sub can still be pushed farther. I know its bad to push them to max but when I lower down the gain I can barely hear the sub. My stock speakers are really loud and turning my head unit up past more than 20 (max volume is 40) has lots of distortion in them.

My equipment is
Skar audio SDR-12 600 watt RMS
Skar audio RP-800.1D | 800 WATT
Scoche line output converter
There's a few things that don't make sense to me in this. So your factory speakers are only able to reach 20 before distortion and the range is 40? that's a bit strange, usually you get to at least 3/4 before that. Another thing is that with your line out converter choice, there's options on the side of it. Are you sure that's set up correctly? You should never have to max your gain on an amplifier, you're running huge risk of feedback loops if you do that. The signal should be stronger than it is. Are you sure you've adjusted the gain and plugged into the right set? There are more than one gain settings for multiple channels on there.


Beyond all that, this LOC isn't the best choice for your system. Ideally you'd get a new head unit and run RCAs from that, but since you're using stock the best option is an LOC that has bass differentials so your factory unit isn't robbing the amplifier of bass as the volume goes up. An LOC like this would be much better and you'd notice an improvement regardless of your problem here.
If you want to maintain the fader if you ever get a 4 channel amp to go with that mono amp then you could get this instead.

When i switched vehicles to one that didn't give me the option of easily swapping the head unit I used a passive LOC like that one and it was pretty lackluster. Upgrading to the LC2i brought the quality back from my old car and I no longer had issues with bass levels weakening with volume.
 
Ok so I know that this has been asked a thousand times but I still don't understand. I drive a honda civic with stock radio. I have both the line output converter and the amplifier at max gain setting and I feel like the sub can still be pushed farther. I know its bad to push them to max but when I lower down the gain I can barely hear the sub. My stock speakers are really loud and turning my head unit up past more than 20 (max volume is 40) has lots of distortion in them.

My equipment is
Skar audio SDR-12 600 watt RMS
Skar audio RP-800.1D | 800 WATT
Scoche line output converter
Please don't set your amp gains to max. It will blow all your gear to smithereens. Cheap LOC's are known to have super weak signals, thus forcing you to max out your amp to get any output at all, if any. They are absolute crap. And I'm willing to bet your sub enclosure is too small. The only thing that can help you temporarily on output is to place your enclosure all to way to the end of your trunk lid facing sub to a rear loading wall. Still not as effective as making some key changes in your system...

Most important thing to help your situation is to start with replacing stock radio with a good aftermarket headunit (ideally 4v outputs) and getting a custom built ported box for your sub. Those 2 things alone will already show you huge improvement compared to what you have. Of course upgrading amp and subs would help but the results won't be as drastic as the 2 things I mentioned. If you need any help how to go about executing this, just ask. We are happy to help.
 
There's a few things that don't make sense to me in this. So your factory speakers are only able to reach 20 before distortion and the range is 40? that's a bit strange, usually you get to at least 3/4 before that. Another thing is that with your line out converter choice, there's options on the side of it. Are you sure that's set up correctly? You should never have to max your gain on an amplifier, you're running huge risk of feedback loops if you do that. The signal should be stronger than it is. Are you sure you've adjusted the gain and plugged into the right set? There are more than one gain settings for multiple channels on there.


Beyond all that, this LOC isn't the best choice for your system. Ideally you'd get a new head unit and run RCAs from that, but since you're using stock the best option is an LOC that has bass differentials so your factory unit isn't robbing the amplifier of bass as the volume goes up. An LOC like this would be much better and you'd notice an improvement regardless of your problem here.
If you want to maintain the fader if you ever get a 4 channel amp to go with that mono amp then you could get this instead.

When i switched vehicles to one that didn't give me the option of easily swapping the head unit I used a passive LOC like that one and it was pretty lackluster. Upgrading to the LC2i brought the quality back from my old car and I no longer had issues with bass levels weakening with volume.

Im sorry I didn't specify which line output converter is, its the cheap one, LOC90 that im using which has a left and right channel gain. I really dont want to spend 100+ dollars for a line output converter which was the same price as the sub itself. Do you think it would help on my radio to turn up the bass volume so it sends more to the line output converter?. Thanks for your reply nonetheless
 
Please don't set your amp gains to max. It will blow all your gear to smithereens. Cheap LOC's are known to have super weak signals, thus forcing you to max out your amp to get any output at all, if any. They are absolute crap. And I'm willing to bet your sub enclosure is too small. The only thing that can help you temporarily on output is to place your enclosure all to way to the end of your trunk lid facing sub to a rear loading wall. Still not as effective as making some key changes in your system...

Most important thing to help your situation is to start with replacing stock radio with a good aftermarket headunit (ideally 4v outputs) and getting a custom built ported box for your sub. Those 2 things alone will already show you huge improvement compared to what you have. Of course upgrading amp and subs would help but the results won't be as drastic as the 2 things I mentioned. If you need any help how to go about executing this, just ask. We are happy to help.

Ok so first the box I am using is made by skar, I bought the loaded enclosure which came with everything. Also, will having the gain setting high destroy the equipment if the sub isnt moving much. Ive seen the sub in other cars and it moves a lot more than mine does. Thanks for your reply anyways.
 
Also, will having the gain setting high destroy the equipment if the sub isnt moving much.

Well if your signal is that weak that you barely have output at max gain, you should still be safe from any real damage (unless you start adding in bass boost, then there's a good chance you're distorting the signal which can eventually lead to damage). That just tells you right there your signal source is the main culprit. That stock radio is just a hindrance and causes more problems for you in achieving your desired results. I wouldn't be surprised if you gained like 3db just from swapping to a decent headunit.

I don't trust what skar says in general. They are not a trustworthy company but I guess it does the job. I usually stay away from prefab loaded enclosures as they are not my cup of tea and the specs are usually nowhere close to what they say.

Also note that just because your sub isn't "moving" much doesn't necessarily mean it's not working hard. In sealed boxes, you'll usually see the cone push harder vs a ported box which will not be moving much especially when playing close to tuning freq. It's not a very good indicator to know whether your amp is pushing hard or not.
 
Im sorry I didn't specify which line output converter is, its the cheap one, LOC90 that im using which has a left and right channel gain. I really dont want to spend 100+ dollars for a line output converter which was the same price as the sub itself. Do you think it would help on my radio to turn up the bass volume so it sends more to the line output converter?. Thanks for your reply nonetheless

Well look at it this way. If you want the closest thing you can get to good quality signal without replacing the head unit then 100 dollars is about the cheapest you can get unless you go used market. Yes it will help with the bass volume, it will allow your amp to actually stretch its legs. Right now it's a good thing your amp gain doesn't go any higher because it would likely hit some distortion and peak all at once.

Your signal is weak and that's dangerous. Even if you don't use the bass boost. Effectively your amp is probably getting like a sub 1v signal and that's not too far away from what you can get from interference from a close power cable. If you amplify the power cable interference it will demand more power to produce it, which will cause more interference... It's like someone putting the mic in front of the speaker, except with bass and it'll potentially damage your amplifier, your subwoofer, maybe even your hearing when the amp output goes to pure square waves.

The best case scenario for you is to get a new head unit, but that will come with a conversion kit custom to your car and will run you probably 500 dollars just to put a junky one in there, maybe more and 700 to get something decent. The alternative is the 100 dollar LOC. It's the cheapest option that allows you to keep stock with minimal sacrifices. The LC2i produces so much signal that you'll barely need to touch your gain knob (up to 8.5v rms) and it also corrects the bass curve which is crucial for enjoying bass at different volumes without drastic changes in intensity.
 
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Im sorry I didn't specify which line output converter is, its the cheap one, LOC90 that im using which has a left and right channel gain. I really dont want to spend 100+ dollars for a line output converter which was the same price as the sub itself. Do you think it would help on my radio to turn up the bass volume so it sends more to the line output converter?. Thanks for your reply nonetheless
Hello Bro. I know its been awhile but I was in your shoes.
Added sub and amp to existing brand new system and while some mentioned the LC2i, many said hey get the $20 LOC its fine.
Bullcrap. My signal was low like yours, even though I was running a 400 W Rms 8" DVR with Skar rp1200 at 500 Watts @4 ohm.
I had to get the LC21. Its an active LOC and adds a lot of oomph to the signal.
Now, you may be able to wire your SUB to lower Ohms. Something else...that amp will run two subs.
Instead of getting an LOC you could get another sub, wire them at 1 OHM (which is loudest) and that bwould increase signal dramatically IF youre running at 2 OHM or 4 OHM. Oh crap, scratch that I thought you had the 1200 Watt amp lol. Youll have to get an active LOC. Sorry
 
Ok so I know that this has been asked a thousand times but I still don't understand. I drive a honda civic with stock radio. I have both the line output converter and the amplifier at max gain setting and I feel like the sub can still be pushed farther. I know its bad to push them to max but when I lower down the gain I can barely hear the sub. My stock speakers are really loud and turning my head unit up past more than 20 (max volume is 40) has lots of distortion in them.

My equipment is
Skar audio SDR-12 600 watt RMS
Skar audio RP-800.1D | 800 WATT
Scoche line output converter
I feel your pain but about the only way you're going to get more power out of that line out converter is if you buy a different line out converter... Some are made better than others some have more power.. and it was just my opinion but I'd get rid of the bass knob it's just a headache and you really don't need it.. I have had this issue and trust me it's a pain in the butt I've been through at least four line out converters since I've had my system hooked up and believe it or not the most expensive ones aren't always the best kind... I have the same lineup converter you're talking a bout...PAC makes a really good one and so does kicker
 
Seems like everybody wants to tell you what to buy and tell you what they think you should have and all this and that and yada yada yada sometimes you just got to do the best with what you got you know what I mean... So bottom line is it doesn't matter where you put the line out converter you're still going to get the same effect in the same amount of draw out of it regardless.. what you want to pay attention to is the speaker that's tied in that's tied into the line out converter you want it to be a decent size gauge... And remember the longer the wire the farther it has to travel so think about that...
 
Ok so I know that this has been asked a thousand times but I still don't understand. I drive a honda civic with stock radio. I have both the line output converter and the amplifier at max gain setting and I feel like the sub can still be pushed farther. I know its bad to push them to max but when I lower down the gain I can barely hear the sub. My stock speakers are really loud and turning my head unit up past more than 20 (max volume is 40) has lots of distortion in them.

My equipment is
Skar audio SDR-12 600 watt RMS
Skar audio RP-800.1D | 800 WATT
Scoche line output converter

If I can chime in. How did you wire everything? Where did you splice into the system to feed the line output converter? Did you check your connections with a multi meter? The multi meter is a good starting place. See what kinda power everything is getting.
As for getting another LOC. That might be a good idea. 100 for an active power LOC isn’t horrible. Sell your current LOC for whatever you can get for it. Least then you can put that money towards a new one.
I am not telling you what to do. Just some options to consider.
 
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