Should I use my Amp or internal crossover on my HU?

ItsHammer

CarAudio.com Recruit
Hi. Kind of new, kind of not new to car audio. It's been a good 10+ years since I've bought anything audio related. I just bought and installed some powerbass components in the front doors and powerbass coaxial in the rear doors on a powerbass 4ch. Not the best equipment but it's a good starting point to get back into audio I suppose.

My question is, should I use the hpf on my Amp to adjust xover settings, or leave it on full and use my internal xover hpf on my head unit? My HU is a pioneer 501ex. As of now I have my front set to full range and am using the hpf on my head unit. Just easier to adjust not having to go to the trunk I guess. Is this the more preferable method? Any advice? Should I set them both to hpf? The rear coax are set to hpf on both Amp and head unit at about 80hz with a - 12db drop off. Mainly using them for minor rear fill. Honestly I don't even notice them sitting up front.

Also, no substage yet. I want to get my Soundstage right first. Thank you for your time
 
Hi. Kind of new, kind of not new to car audio. It's been a good 10+ years since I've bought anything audio related. I just bought and installed some powerbass components in the front doors and powerbass coaxial in the rear doors on a powerbass 4ch. Not the best equipment but it's a good starting point to get back into audio I suppose.

My question is, should I use the hpf on my Amp to adjust xover settings, or leave it on full and use my internal xover hpf on my head unit? My HU is a pioneer 501ex. As of now I have my front set to full range and am using the hpf on my head unit. Just easier to adjust not having to go to the trunk I guess. Is this the more preferable method? Any advice? Should I set them both to hpf? The rear coax are set to hpf on both Amp and head unit at about 80hz with a - 12db drop off. Mainly using them for minor rear fill. Honestly I don't even notice them sitting up front.

Also, no substage yet. I want to get my Soundstage right first. Thank you for your time
Use your head units crossover and set your amp flat . By using the head unit you'll have the ability to precisely dial in the right frequency...the reading from the deck will be more accurate opposed to the variable crossover tune on the amp .. unless your amp happens to have preset frequency.. never use both crossovers together or your slopes will get really screwy....
 
Use your head units crossover and set your amp flat . By using the head unit you'll have the ability to precisely dial in the right frequency...the reading from the deck will be more accurate opposed to the variable crossover tune on the amp .. unless your amp happens to have preset frequency.. never use both crossovers together or your slopes will get really screwy....

When you say set the Amp flat, can you be more specific? Meaning leave it in full rather than on hpf? Also, my HU internal crossover isn't impressive by any means, it has preset xover points with an adjustable dB octave but it's definitely better than nothing.
 
Screenshot_20200421-204244_Chrome.jpg
 
Mono amps aren’t full range in most cases so you can’t get a full/flat signal( ie 20 to 20k)out of them. However You will find some of the full bridge amps that are full range mono that are capable of a full/flat signal.
 
I meant an option to defeat the crossover. I'd rather use my deck crossover for the lpf but my amp doesn't have a lpf on/off switch so I use the one on the amp. Sure you can turn the dial all the way up but its not the same thing.
 
It’s the same thing. 80 hz x over point with a 12 dB slope is -12 dB at 160 hz. 24 dB is -24 dB at 160hz .100 hz with a 12 dB slope is -12db at 200 hz etc etc etc. You’re not even getting close to the amplifiers crossover with it turned all the up.
 
Multi-channel amps seem to have that FLAT or FULL option but mono amps seem to lack that feature. Why is that?
I never understood that myself why a lot of larger mono amps dont have defeatable crossovers .. it makes it difficult setting up systems sometimes because of slope issues ..especially if using a deck and the sub output isnt defeatable or can be ran as through .. having a subsonic is fine ..on amps .. but I like being able to control my low pass from the deck..some music may sound better at 100 and below on subs some better at 80 and below or so fourth ... it's just good to have front controls ..
 
It’s the same thing. 80 hz x over point with a 12 dB slope is -12 dB at 160 hz. 24 dB is -24 dB at 160hz .100 hz with a 12 dB slope is -12db at 200 hz etc etc etc. You’re not even getting close to the amplifiers crossover with it turned all the up.

Good little bit of info. Those dB slopes always kind of confused me. I'll try setting the front to 63hz with a - 12 slope. I'm not trying to get bass heavy with the front stage but a little bit is nice for now. Doors are are slightly deadened but I need to go back in and do the inner door metal, seal the holes, put some overkill on some of the ratty plastic bits. Having alot of inner vibration and rattle from the plastic. Annoying af.
 
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ItsHammer

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