Diag help

[Calenatar]

So i have a 96 impala with a ls2 swap. Has a 270a alternator from

Custom Electric Service, Inc.

We are an electric lift truck and ariel lift motor specialist. We provide complete service on all electric lift truck motors. We also specialize in high amp needs for your school bus, fire and EMS applications.

customelectricservice.com

Has a xs d3100 in the rear

System is 2 sundown zv5 12s hooked up to a crescendo bassclef 4k in a 5cu ft ported box @32hz

All power/ground wiring is crescendo 1/0, including big 3 up front, and run from front battery to rear. Amp has 2 power and 2 ground runs to the rear battery. Rear battery grounded to bus bar welded to frame.

Issues I run into are that i cannot turn my gain up(its all the way down) or the amp kicks off into protection mode, and if i run it hard my lights dim some. Im concerned my alternator isnt putting out enough voltage. Read some online that ls alternators only output higher voltages if wired a certain way. Anyone have experience with this? Or suggestions where to start? Thanks

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[Gunk]

Do you have a voltage gauge installed?

 

[Calenatar]

Do you have a voltage gauge installed?

I do not, is there somewhere I can monitor with a multi meter?

 

[Gunk]

Amazon.com: Stinger SVMB Voltage Gauge - Blue Display (Discontinued by Manufacturer): Car Electronics

Amazon.com: Stinger SVMB Voltage Gauge - Blue Display (Discontinued by Manufacturer): Car Electronics

www.amazon.com

With something like this you could monitor your voltage while your music is playing. At least then you would have a definitive tool to further diagnose your problem. Be sure to check all ground connections are good.

 

[02WS6]

Sounds like a bad ground to me.

I'd hook a multi-meter up to the Power/Ground on the Amp and check voltage while music is playing, check it at the rear battery and front battery as well. Double check all power/ground connections, make sure they're really good, unpainted grounds. If all connections check out, might be idle amperage issue with your alt, but that is less likely. If you're seeing a variable in voltage drop at any one of the connections, you may have a bad wire/lug/connection. Replace and re-test.

Just double check voltage drop across each battery and amp and as long as they're all above 12VDC (under load) you know the wiring is good and all that is left is an internal issue with your amp. My next troubleshooting step would be to pick up a different amp (Taramps/Orion) and see if the issue reoccurs.

 

[Calenatar]

So i tested earlier, at idle at the front battery it was sitting at 14.7-14.9, under heavy load from system it would dip to 12.9-13.4. now at the amp under heavy load it would range anywhere from 11.9-12.4 under heavy hits. at both ends of the system between hits it would jump right back to 14+ volts.

 

[02WS6]

So i tested earlier, at idle at the front battery it was sitting at 14.7-14.9, under heavy load from system it would dip to 12.9-13.4. now at the amp under heavy load it would range anywhere from 11.9-12.4 under heavy hits. at both ends of the system between hits it would jump right back to 14+ volts.

I'm wondering if you have a battery failure. I looked up the Alt page and I assume on LS2 you're using the AD244 cased 4-Pin?

This one: https://customelectricservice.com/c...o-yukon-escalade-97-04?variant=28949144305738

That has a 200 Amp idle amperage, at full tilt your Amp can draw 270-300+ Amps.

Next test I would do is turn the car off and test front/rear battery resting voltages. Possibly get front and rear batteries tested?

 

[Calenatar]

I'm wondering if you have a battery failure. I looked up the Alt page and I assume on LS2 you're using the AD244 cased 4-Pin?

This one: https://customelectricservice.com/c...o-yukon-escalade-97-04?variant=28949144305738

That has a 200 Amp idle amperage, at full tilt your Amp can draw 270-300+ Amps.

Next test I would do is turn the car off and test front/rear battery resting voltages. Possibly get front and rear batteries tested?

yeah thats the alternator i'm running. would i need to separate them to test that? the rear battery requires pulling my rear seat which is a pain, but obviously i wanna get this fixed. the amp is way more accessible, could i test the power wire at the amp to see the voltage in the wire coming off the battery? when I ordered my amp, they thought it took a different bracket, I wonder if they'd give me credit towards their 370a unit of the same size.

 

[02WS6]

yeah thats the alternator i'm running. would i need to separate them to test that? the rear battery requires pulling my rear seat which is a pain, but obviously i wanna get this fixed. the amp is way more accessible, could i test the power wire at the amp to see the voltage in the wire coming off the battery? when I ordered my amp, they thought it took a different bracket, I wonder if they'd give me credit towards their 370a unit of the same size.

Unfortunately for you the only way to properly test the batteries is to do it separately. Maybe just disconnect the front battery and test that, then test the rear battery by hooking up to the amp. Not perfect but should get you close to knowing where you're at, minus any voltage drop between your rear battery and amp.