Help picking between two subs

[Jonnyswboy]

Agree. Taramps MD3000 with Fi SSD.  Add a rear battery in you can or upgrade your front battery.

meh chinese low quality board. dynos 2250 costs 230$

taramps md 1800.1 dynos 2450 costs 180$

taramps md 3000.1 ^ you can pretty much see how much power this should dyno at. costs 205$ and it has a remote clipping indicator as well. The skar is no where near a taramps HD 3000.1 from my IRL tests output, efficiency sound quality etc..  and the MD series is much stronger than the HD series.

Thank you for the recommendations! I am going to go with an MD 3000.1 and the SSD in a 3.2cuft ported box. I think I'm going to hold off on the battery upgrade for now though, I will just have to be thorough when checking voltage and adjusting power. 

And just to clarify I should still buy the dual 2 ohm sub and run it at 1 ohm right? Or should I buy the dual 1 and run it at 0.5 ohms? Also you said that people wire their amps to 0.25 ohms. Do you mean wire the sub down to that? How would you wire down an amp? And sorry last question I promise but do you think a 16ft power wire is long enough to do a clean install under the plastics and possibly the "big 2" that you recommended (2010 Mazda 6 Sedan)?

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Get a dual two ohm subwoofer to run on the MD3000 1 ohm version.

Electrical system needs to really be stout to run .5 or lower.

Couldn't answer that one as I have never worked with a Mazda 6. I would buy 20' and if you have extra wire use it to do your "big 3".

 

[Jonnyswboy]

Get a dual two ohm subwoofer to run on the MD3000 1 ohm version.

Electrical system needs to really be stout to run .5 or lower.

Couldn't answer that one as I have never worked with a Mazda 6. I would buy 20' and if you have extra wire use it to do your "big 3".

And wire the sub to 4 ohms?

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

No. Wire to 1 ohm.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

you never get 1 ohm power wired to 1 ohm. When the sub sees power and the coil travels through the motor, your ohms change.  This information is only known to people that actually clamp test their amps for real world power numbers aka competitors in restricted power classes.

That is a false statement. A 1ohm speaker is 1ohm at resting position. Meaning you will absolutely see a 1ohm load at various times in the dynamic range the speaker plays. I've addressed this multiple times and nobody ever responds. You acknowledge that impedance rise is frequency based, but then you apply some arbitrary load on the amplifier to decide that everyone needs an amp that is rated for 2-3 times what the speaker is rated for. That is the opposite of understanding that impedance rise is frequency based. Being frequency based means the impedance changes based on cone motion.

You refer to (SPL) competitors when discussing clamp ratings. SPL competitors burp at a single frequency their entire system was designed to play, so yes they focus on impedance rise because it is a specific factor if you are only playing a single frequency burp. That research does not apply to daily systems playing multiple octaves of frequencies. Telling someone to buy an oversized amp and then turn the gains down artificially low is great for 'headroom' for people with golden ears, but most people would rather not shell out hundreds of extra dollars for power they will almost never require, and that their charging system would probably not sustain anyway.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I am not trying to exceed my alternator... It's not like you have zero headroom with a 110A alternator. 

I don't think you realize/understand how much voltage your alt will take to power your amp. A full blown 2k watts will yield dam near or just over 140 volts.....compared to your weak 110 stock one and majority of that alt is going to your amp. Everything else, in your car, wipers, heater, etc is just a small portion. Do yourself an electrical a favor and upgrade the alt. bIg 3 is an absolute must also. Worst you'll see is lights dimming. Then next week we'll see a new post on that from you on how to get rid of it.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That is a false statement. A 1ohm speaker is 1ohm at resting position. Meaning you will absolutely see a 1ohm load at various times in the dynamic range the speaker plays. I've addressed this multiple times and nobody ever responds. You acknowledge that impedance rise is frequency based, but then you apply some arbitrary load on the amplifier to decide that everyone needs an amp that is rated for 2-3 times what the speaker is rated for. That is the opposite of understanding that impedance rise is frequency based. Being frequency based means the impedance changes based on cone motion.

You refer to (SPL) competitors when discussing clamp ratings. SPL competitors burp at a single frequency their entire system was designed to play, so yes they focus on impedance rise because it is a specific factor if you are only playing a single frequency burp. That research does not apply to daily systems playing multiple octaves of frequencies. Telling someone to buy an oversized amp and then turn the gains down artificially low is great for 'headroom' for people with golden ears, but most people would rather not shell out hundreds of extra dollars for power they will almost never require, and that their charging system would probably not sustain anyway.

Its not hundred dollars more its literally cheaper than the one he was looking at. If you've done actual frequency clamps at every frequency from 20 to 60hz, you'll see the lowest rise is 2x your wired impedance in most setups even with the enclosures with minimal rise. There will never be 1 ohm power especially during music when the recording levels are way weaker than a 0 db test tone and the coils are moving a lot more frequently due to many frequencies being played.  An amp barely doing lifting a finger providing all the output you need vs an amp 120% redlined, which one do you think keeps a cleaner signal and last longer?

 

[mrj858 10+ year member]

Its not hundred dollars more its literally cheaper than the one he was looking at. If you've done actual frequency clamps at every frequency from 20 to 60hz, you'll see the lowest rise is 2x your wired impedance in most setups even with the enclosures with minimal rise. There will never be 1 ohm power especially during music when the recording levels are way weaker than a 0 db test tone and the coils are moving a lot more frequently due to many frequencies being played.  An amp barely doing lifting a finger providing all the output you need vs an amp 120% redlined, which one do you think keeps a cleaner signal and last longer?

This is not entirely true...I'm wired at .4 per amp and I was at .4 twice during my impedance sweep using my IM/SG to find both tuning frequencies in my 6th...hell I stayed under 1ohm from 20hz-30hz didn't start rising until after 31hz (peaked at 1.6 ohms at 35hz) then started falling under 1ohm again until the upper 50hz range....I did notice the less port area I had in the rear chamber the higher my rise was