Ok to run 150 rms speakers with 100rms

[Drewborice]

I’m upgrading my car audio system my amp I have is setup for 100rms X 4 at 4ohms  or 150rms X 4 at 2ohms 

i have a set of 2 pinoer 100rms 4 ohm speaker and another set of 2 6x9 kickers 150rms 4ohm is it ok if I run them together 

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[DRBOOM]

Hello there mate!

Thanks for posting your concern here! :veryhapp:

That should be fine mate.  No doubt you will be applying crossover to your speakers assuming you have a dedicated subwoofer in your car for bass duties.  You see when you apply high pass to speakers, even to stock speakers, they can handle more power since they are not being fed 'full range' music signal.   Another example is car tweeters that you can purchase.  The original ratings of a tweeter could be 40rms but with the recommended crossover, it will handle 100rms in a system power, since the tweeter will work with a mid-bass driver to generate a more detailed sound and together, with a dedicated 6db/12db/24db crossover, they should work well in the given enclosure/ door mounted.

I remember I ran 200rms to a 50rms component speaker but I was not feeding it 200rms on a daily basis, I may probably run 100 rms at low to moderate levels as long as the signal going to the speakers are clean, the speaker will play well.  If I ran them hard on a daily basis, then I risk the life of the speakers and maybe I would eventually fry the voice coils and the tweeters will be the first to die since they are more sensitive to power ratings. 

Its like having a V8 engine in your car.  Your speedometer states top speed of 300km / 186 miles but you will never use it to its full potential, but its reassuring to know you have the power to do so

Hope this information is helpful to you mate!

 

[Drewborice]

Hello there mate!

Thanks for posting your concern here! :veryhapp:

That should be fine mate.  No doubt you will be applying crossover to your speakers assuming you have a dedicated subwoofer in your car for bass duties.  You see when you apply high pass to speakers, even to stock speakers, they can handle more power since they are not being fed 'full range' music signal.   Another example is car tweeters that you can purchase.  The original ratings of a tweeter could be 40rms but with the recommended crossover, it will handle 100rms in a system power, since the tweeter will work with a mid-bass driver to generate a more detailed sound and together, with a dedicated 6db/12db/24db crossover, they should work well in the given enclosure/ door mounted.

I remember I ran 200rms to a 50rms component speaker but I was not feeding it 200rms on a daily basis, I may probably run 100 rms at low to moderate levels as long as the signal going to the speakers are clean, the speaker will play well.  If I ran them hard on a daily basis, then I risk the life of the speakers and maybe I would eventually fry the voice coils and the tweeters will be the first to die since they are more sensitive to power ratings. 

Its like having a V8 engine in your car.  Your speedometer states top speed of 300km / 186 miles but you will never use it to its full potential, but its reassuring to know you have the power to do so

Hope this information is helpful to you mate!

View attachment 2367

I already have a upgraded system by factory Boston acoustic with 2 front  woofers 2 rear 6X9 3 ways and 2 tweeters up front with a 276 watt amp powering those from factory and I have added 2 12’ jbl subs with a 1500watt amp powering the suns but only running about 1000 Watts. Wouldn’t it be easier to, if it was possible to directly swap that factory amp to a bigger one to handle the new speakers I have to put in and I need to get better tweeters I assume.I only need a 4 channel amp still I assume  right if I have the cross overs? Let me know what u think .

 

[Drewborice]

I already have a upgraded system by factory Boston acoustic with 2 front  woofers 2 rear 6X9 3 ways and 2 tweeters up front with a 276 watt amp powering those from factory and I have added 2 12’ jbl subs with a 1500watt amp powering the suns but only running about 1000 Watts. Wouldn’t it be easier to, if it was possible to directly swap that factory amp to a bigger one to handle the new speakers I have to put in and I need to get better tweeters I assume.I only need a 4 channel amp still I assume  right if I have the cross overs? Let me know what u think .

If I have 4 speakers do I need 4 cross overs?

 

[DRBOOM]

Hey there again,

I am assuming you are running a pair of components for front stage and another components for the rear.  If you are running 4 speakers for front and back, then yes, you would need some sort of 'high pass filter' for your speakers.  Another way is if you run your speakers off a four channel amplifier, then your amp may have built in high pass/ low pass/ full range options in that case you would select the high pass option then set the cross over to 80 hz or higher if you run speakers 5 inch or smaller. 80hz is good for 6 or 6.5 inch.   So your subwoofers will play from 80Hz low pass so you achieve the full music spectrum that is, 20hz - 20Khz.  Its hard to achieve 20Hz in an automotive environment, the room just don't allow for that but that is a different topic.

Hope I am making sense to you here mate! 

 

[Drewborice]

Hey there again,

I am assuming you are running a pair of components for front stage and another components for the rear.  If you are running 4 speakers for front and back, then yes, you would need some sort of 'high pass filter' for your speakers.  Another way is if you run your speakers off a four channel amplifier, then your amp may have built in high pass/ low pass/ full range options in that case you would select the high pass option then set the cross over to 80 hz or higher if you run speakers 5 inch or smaller. 80hz is good for 6 or 6.5 inch.   So your subwoofers will play from 80Hz low pass so you achieve the full music spectrum that is, 20hz - 20Khz.  Its hard to achieve 20Hz in an automotive environment, the room just don't allow for that but that is a different topic.

Hope I am making sense to you here mate! 

View attachment 2370

I’m kinda new at this sorry could u tell me everything else I would. Need beside the speakers and amp ex like  do I need a cross over if so how many and a link to a video would help me I’m just trying to make my car have the best system than the rest of my friends

 

[DRBOOM]

Hey mate,

To answer your question on being easier to swap the factory amp;

The answer is...NO!  Factory amps have different wiring and plug inserts and are not marked.   They also carry high gauge wires that only work with factory head units.

That is way adding an aftermarket amplifier, you would be required to buy a amplifier wiring kit depending on your power needs.  From memory, an 8 gauge power wire can carry up to 56 amps and 4 gauge does 140 amps etc

So, if you buy a 4 channel amp with a fuse rating at 60 amps, you have to compensate for the length from the battery to the amplifier location.  Usually 10% is what you aim for so in this case is 66 amps in total.  So you cannot buy a 8 gauge kit as the 8 gauge will draw 56amps max so if you proceeded to use this, the fuse will blow and there is a good chance your vehicle could pose a safety hazard to you or whoever drives your car and uses your system.

If you have component speakers (stock up front) and you buy an after market component ( the same woofer size) then chances are, it will come with a external 12db crossover, that may or may not have tweeter DB attenuation.  ( Not needed but some do have this feature) 

So in order to use the component speaker, you will have two crossovers for each set of woofer and tweeter.  After taking the original speakers / tweeters out, place the aftermarket ones on the respective stock position.  Check the woofer for clearance to glass window winding down so there is no obstruction to the window glass and mechanism.

After you take the stock speakers out from one door, wipe it with a damp cloth inside including outer and inner panel. then you can go ahead to apply sound deadening to the doors.  Does not have to be full cover, just apply sparingly as they are not cheap.  Just knock on the panel to see if it does not ring.

Use original space to place the tweeter and run wires to near the woofer below.  Cut original speaker wires and connect to the crossover marked input - then you will see Tweeter / woofer output and tweeter options (if any)

Mount the aftermarket woofer using the original screw points and make sure you have sound deadening behind the woofer cone.  Also don't forget to add the foam sponge on the woofers outer rim as per stock speaker (take this out from the stock speaker) as  this all contributes to a better tighter mid-bass in the front stage.    Repeat the process on the other door.

Refer to the pic added, shows an old ADS crossover, that has options for tweeter attenuation so the stock speaker out from the door spaker will go in the 'in' negative and positive. You will have to supply additional wiring to the woofer, solder them and apply heat shrink and then attach the connection to the cross over and make sure you check the polarity is correct.   I usually leave the plastic in the door panels as water seeps through them. I cut some places to access the inner panels and to mount speakers and crossovers.  I used double sided Velcro tape to attach the crossover inside the outer panel just next to the mid-woofer.

Hope this helps out mate!

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I have done something similar. Find that factory amp, remove the harnness from it and remove/cut the necessary wires needed to run those speakers to the amp. I would highly suggest an aftermarket amp since those factory amps isn't so great.

As for the x-overs using them, I would use them since your wanting to direct certain freq to each speaker, mids/tweets....this will yield a cleaner sound once tuned properly.

Lastly, you wanna tune your amp with a DMM to "max" setting on the gain to "control" the watts your amp produces to the speakers. Your basically "limiting" the amps watts to your speakers, so long as it's a clean signal. 12.24 is the magic number to use for the DMM to look for. It doesn't have to be spot on but get as close as you can. Once this is achieved, should be able to crank it up all day/night w/o any issues.