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realflow100

MTX terminator dual 12" subwoofers vented box smelly voice coils?

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Crap subwoofers

crap amp.

crap box 

= crap results. 

Just because u used the smd distortion detector doesn’t mean your not clipping. That piece of crap thing only checks the distortion at the frequency test tone your playing. The music u play is recorded at all different types of levels. 

99% sure clipping and low end equipment 

Edited by PPVtahoe11

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I agree with PPVTahoe11. 

 

The whole they need more power so they move more air to cool off thing is not a good theory. If that was the case you could never turn the volume down or they would overheat.

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On 1/2/2019 at 8:44 AM, realflow100 said:

Extended the port inside to about double its length by adding another port wall. and added tons of stuffing to dampen the boomy resonances 

you didnt lower the tuning by much at all, in fact you could have even raised the tuning by a lot by taking up airspace because those prefabs are already beyond tiny with airspace.  There is a point when adding internal walls cause you to raise tuning because you are starving on airspace. 

 

On 1/6/2019 at 11:25 AM, realflow100 said:

I found out the issue. the subs are getting about 100 maybe 200 watts each and only moving a little bit. no wonder they are heating up at those frequencies. they move more air at higher frequencies and lower frequencies.

Maybe its a thing like I should give them enough power to cool themselves from cone movement but not too little power where they dont move enough to cool themselves but still enough to cook slowly?

Is that even possibly a thing? or should I just keep the power lower around that frequency?

 

On 1/1/2019 at 1:28 AM, realflow100 said:

they are rated 1000 watts RMS total combined and 2000 watts peak combined power and I'm only giving each subwoofer a maximum of 100 to 250 watts and I was playing some bass and I started to smell it so I turned it down. the dust caps I could feel some warmth to them and I could smell it was cooking a little. they didnt smoke and still seem to work fine but i'm worried they will blow out if I turn it up again. and the amplifier was not clipping or putting any distortion.

The subwoofers were not moving a whole lot at the time. I know they can move more and not smell so I dont know if its a dead zone frequency for the box that makes the subwoofers get hot without flexing and so they get hot?

the frequency is between 25 to 35hz and they can flex way more and not overheat but i'm not sure if they are damaged or if they just need to be broken in longer first?

I am using an equalizer to balance the frequency response so the deep mid and high bass frequencies are similar volume from 30hz to 100hz since they are quite boomy at certain frequencies.

Maybe my subwoofers are just too cheap? they were 100$ from amazon including the box. I had a look inside the box and it seemed alright but I changed the speaker terminal so they are not in parallel (my amplifier has 4 channels so I bridged two of them so each subwoofer gets a stereo signal and not mono.)

also they are rated 4 ohms each so I have them wired up to 4 ohms bridged stereo on my amplifier (1000 watt amplifier. peak. and 240-260 watts RMS bridged stereo. so around 500 watts RMS total combined power for both subwoofers?)

I dont think you know how this works. Giving a sub lower power and it not moving as much does not cause it to heat up. You have less power going to the coils and there should be literally no issues with heat. If what you said was true then whenever anyone lowers their sound system volume down, they will blow their subs. 

You never even mentioned how you tested your amp for clean wattage or if you 100% know you have a clean signal. 

My money is 100% on you having a dirty clipped signal with an amp thats not putting out anywhere enough power to push the subs and you are dissatisfied with the output and cranked it up. Just because you dont hear distorted bass doesnt meant you are not clipping with a dirty signal.  Heated coils basically means clipped dirty signal by almost default and there's no exception in your particular case here.


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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Terminators are 200wrms subs. They took the place of the old Road Thunders but are built with far lower grade parts. They don't have a strong enough motor to control the cone and are designed for sealed boxes. Thats what had me laughing at the beginning. They are fit to be sold in a Walmart. 

You get what you pay for.


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I'm wondering where your getting 1k rms for the subs from?  No way an entry level sub can handle that much power, esp MTX Audio.

 

Those bass packages from Amazon, Wal Mart, etc. are just that: to give the owner a little bass. You want something louder, sell everything and start all over. Use that $$ to get some better brands.


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Alpine 9835

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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21 hours ago, Jeffdachef said:

you didnt lower the tuning by much at all, in fact you could have even raised the tuning by a lot by taking up airspace because those prefabs are already beyond tiny with airspace.  There is a point when adding internal walls cause you to raise tuning because you are starving on airspace. 

 

 

I dont think you know how this works. Giving a sub lower power and it not moving as much does not cause it to heat up. You have less power going to the coils and there should be literally no issues with heat. If what you said was true then whenever anyone lowers their sound system volume down, they will blow their subs. 

You never even mentioned how you tested your amp for clean wattage or if you 100% know you have a clean signal. 

My money is 100% on you having a dirty clipped signal with an amp thats not putting out anywhere enough power to push the subs and you are dissatisfied with the output and cranked it up. Just because you dont hear distorted bass doesnt meant you are not clipping with a dirty signal.  Heated coils basically means clipped dirty signal by almost default and there's no exception in your particular case here.

why would my home sub be doing the same thing then? I cant imagine that Definitive Technolgy set the gain on the plate amp to give a clipped signal


2002 Honda Accord sedan V6 (automatic slushbox)

2 Rockford p3 12s (dual 2 ohm)

Pioneer AVH-2300NEX

2 PPI PC275's running 1 sub each atm, waiting to put the SQ 2200.1 back in and add the PhoenixGold Elite.4 once my electrical is up to snuff

Front stage:PRV Audio 6MB200 6.5 and Massive Audio CT2 tweeters

Rear speakers: stock

I just added 5 SoundQubed stickers, and despite having no equipment upgrades, it added 76 DB!!!

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8 hours ago, Boomin_tahoe said:

I'm wondering where your getting 1k rms for the subs from?  No way an entry level sub can handle that much power, esp MTX Audio.

 

Those bass packages from Amazon, Wal Mart, etc. are just that: to give the owner a little bass. You want something louder, sell everything and start all over. Use that $$ to get some better brands.

agreed


2002 Honda Accord sedan V6 (automatic slushbox)

2 Rockford p3 12s (dual 2 ohm)

Pioneer AVH-2300NEX

2 PPI PC275's running 1 sub each atm, waiting to put the SQ 2200.1 back in and add the PhoenixGold Elite.4 once my electrical is up to snuff

Front stage:PRV Audio 6MB200 6.5 and Massive Audio CT2 tweeters

Rear speakers: stock

I just added 5 SoundQubed stickers, and despite having no equipment upgrades, it added 76 DB!!!

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I checked with an aux cable wired to a 1 ohm resistor and a 10k resistor hooked up together to both speaker outputs and the aux cable plugged into my line in on my computer and recorded it in audacity to check for clipping at various frequencies then played back the recorded samples and heard no clipping and couldn't see any clipping in the waveforms either

I used the 1 ohm resistor and 10k resistor to drop the voltage down to a safe level to hook to my line in on my computer and checked both speakers while running with the subwoofers plugged in playing a variety of frequencies

the voltage on both bridged outputs are about 28.28v with no speakers plugged in at the loudest frequency of about 40hz

Edited by realflow100

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What is so hard to understand about a low thermal limit?

 

Image result for mtx terminator sub specs

Image result for mtx terminator sub specs

Edited by THATpurpleKUSH

giphy.gif

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if I upgrade the subwoofers will it just not overheat anymore on the same clean power? will I need a more powerful amplifier to make it the same loudness as before? or will it be slightly louder on the same power or the same?

Edited by realflow100

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everyone on here has pretty much told you your stuff is bottom of the barrel not even yard sale worthy... Waste of time to try and put different subs in that box if that's what you're thinking.Your best bet to post your budget and start over and take people's advise. A single sub right box decent amp will easily outperform what you have now. 


2006 ridgeline hu:KW ddx9903s morel 5.25 maximo comps 6.5 maximo coaxial 2 type r 8s 1.1 37 hz amp Rf t1000x5ab

work truck 2017 international pro star Alpine ute62 hu. Amps RF t1000.5ad 4 ch mode infinity k1000  type s 15 3.5 @ 30hz or type s12 2.4 @ 36 hz  or jbl s3 1.5 42hz. 2 8 " eminence pro woofers. 2" Dayton rs52fn midrange. 1 1/8 Dayton dc28f silk dome tweeters.

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3 hours ago, fithwheel said:

everyone on here has pretty much told you your stuff is bottom of the barrel not even yard sale worthy... Waste of time to try and put different subs in that box if that's what you're thinking.Your best bet to post your budget and start over and take people's advise. A single sub right box decent amp will easily outperform what you have now. 

i bet that AB XD im looking at in a decent birch custom box would beat the hell out of those terminators all day long

 

85+ or- for the box, 40 for materials

Edited by youdoofus

2002 Honda Accord sedan V6 (automatic slushbox)

2 Rockford p3 12s (dual 2 ohm)

Pioneer AVH-2300NEX

2 PPI PC275's running 1 sub each atm, waiting to put the SQ 2200.1 back in and add the PhoenixGold Elite.4 once my electrical is up to snuff

Front stage:PRV Audio 6MB200 6.5 and Massive Audio CT2 tweeters

Rear speakers: stock

I just added 5 SoundQubed stickers, and despite having no equipment upgrades, it added 76 DB!!!

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6 hours ago, THATpurpleKUSH said:

What is so hard to understand about a low thermal limit?

 

Image result for mtx terminator sub specs

Image result for mtx terminator sub specs

its funny how mtx decided to make so many subs with such little differences (minus the square one) and spend all that time in R&D as opposed to making 2 maybe 3 and making them better and cheaper and selling tons more of em as a result


2002 Honda Accord sedan V6 (automatic slushbox)

2 Rockford p3 12s (dual 2 ohm)

Pioneer AVH-2300NEX

2 PPI PC275's running 1 sub each atm, waiting to put the SQ 2200.1 back in and add the PhoenixGold Elite.4 once my electrical is up to snuff

Front stage:PRV Audio 6MB200 6.5 and Massive Audio CT2 tweeters

Rear speakers: stock

I just added 5 SoundQubed stickers, and despite having no equipment upgrades, it added 76 DB!!!

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Just now, youdoofus said:

i bet that AB XD im looking at in a decent birch custom box would beat the hell out of those terminators all day long

i bet one of my ultimax 8"s would smack around those terminators. doubt I'd have to break the other 1 out 


2006 ridgeline hu:KW ddx9903s morel 5.25 maximo comps 6.5 maximo coaxial 2 type r 8s 1.1 37 hz amp Rf t1000x5ab

work truck 2017 international pro star Alpine ute62 hu. Amps RF t1000.5ad 4 ch mode infinity k1000  type s 15 3.5 @ 30hz or type s12 2.4 @ 36 hz  or jbl s3 1.5 42hz. 2 8 " eminence pro woofers. 2" Dayton rs52fn midrange. 1 1/8 Dayton dc28f silk dome tweeters.

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Just now, fithwheel said:

i bet one of my ultimax 8"s would smack around those terminators. doubt I'd have to break the other 1 out 

Id say thats highly likely! Ultimaxes are no jokes tho. Kinda remind me of those tympany subs

 


2002 Honda Accord sedan V6 (automatic slushbox)

2 Rockford p3 12s (dual 2 ohm)

Pioneer AVH-2300NEX

2 PPI PC275's running 1 sub each atm, waiting to put the SQ 2200.1 back in and add the PhoenixGold Elite.4 once my electrical is up to snuff

Front stage:PRV Audio 6MB200 6.5 and Massive Audio CT2 tweeters

Rear speakers: stock

I just added 5 SoundQubed stickers, and despite having no equipment upgrades, it added 76 DB!!!

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1 minute ago, youdoofus said:

Id say thats highly likely! Ultimaxes are no jokes tho. Kinda remind me of those tympany subs

 

i got mine in September when they were on sale I haven't built a box yet. They're cute lol...I've thought about buying two more they're so darn cute. 


2006 ridgeline hu:KW ddx9903s morel 5.25 maximo comps 6.5 maximo coaxial 2 type r 8s 1.1 37 hz amp Rf t1000x5ab

work truck 2017 international pro star Alpine ute62 hu. Amps RF t1000.5ad 4 ch mode infinity k1000  type s 15 3.5 @ 30hz or type s12 2.4 @ 36 hz  or jbl s3 1.5 42hz. 2 8 " eminence pro woofers. 2" Dayton rs52fn midrange. 1 1/8 Dayton dc28f silk dome tweeters.

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2 minutes ago, fithwheel said:

i got mine in September when they were on sale I haven't built a box yet. They're cute lol...I've thought about buying two more they're so darn cute. 

i first saw the line in a home audio sw build but the guy was using either 10s or 12s and was very austrailian lol they seemed to do the trick in that environment but havent seen much of them in cars. not sure why


2002 Honda Accord sedan V6 (automatic slushbox)

2 Rockford p3 12s (dual 2 ohm)

Pioneer AVH-2300NEX

2 PPI PC275's running 1 sub each atm, waiting to put the SQ 2200.1 back in and add the PhoenixGold Elite.4 once my electrical is up to snuff

Front stage:PRV Audio 6MB200 6.5 and Massive Audio CT2 tweeters

Rear speakers: stock

I just added 5 SoundQubed stickers, and despite having no equipment upgrades, it added 76 DB!!!

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1 minute ago, youdoofus said:

i first saw the line in a home audio sw build but the guy was using either 10s or 12s and was very austrailian lol they seemed to do the trick in that environment but havent seen much of them in cars. not sure why

yeah they r for my ht. i might try in a car first for fun 


2006 ridgeline hu:KW ddx9903s morel 5.25 maximo comps 6.5 maximo coaxial 2 type r 8s 1.1 37 hz amp Rf t1000x5ab

work truck 2017 international pro star Alpine ute62 hu. Amps RF t1000.5ad 4 ch mode infinity k1000  type s 15 3.5 @ 30hz or type s12 2.4 @ 36 hz  or jbl s3 1.5 42hz. 2 8 " eminence pro woofers. 2" Dayton rs52fn midrange. 1 1/8 Dayton dc28f silk dome tweeters.

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5 hours ago, youdoofus said:

its funny how mtx decided to make so many subs with such little differences (minus the square one) and spend all that time in R&D as opposed to making 2 maybe 3 and making them better and cheaper and selling tons more of em as a result

Not only the R&D but the overhead to store such a vast product line. They could easily combine the TN, 35 and 55 series. All the big companies came out with low end stuff like the Terminators- RF has the Prime series, JL had the JX (which has been discontinued) and Alpine has the Bass Line series. From a marketing perspective I get it- trying to get customers into the brand on the cheap. But that's just it, the equipment ends up being so cheap it's not even worth your time and money at that point. When will these companies learn?


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17 hours ago, realflow100 said:

I checked with an aux cable wired to a 1 ohm resistor and a 10k resistor hooked up together to both speaker outputs and the aux cable plugged into my line in on my computer and recorded it in audacity to check for clipping at various frequencies then played back the recorded samples and heard no clipping and couldn't see any clipping in the waveforms either

I used the 1 ohm resistor and 10k resistor to drop the voltage down to a safe level to hook to my line in on my computer and checked both speakers while running with the subwoofers plugged in playing a variety of frequencies

the voltage on both bridged outputs are about 28.28v with no speakers plugged in at the loudest frequency of about 40hz

thats not how you check for clipping for car audio.


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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