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inferno1985

question about a big 3 upgrade wiring

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k, i have a charger ive seen another post with somsone witht he same car as mine having dimming problems even after new battery and a 2nd battery, being a charger i have my battery in my trunk so if i do a big 3 upgrade would it make it harder to do since the battery is in my trunk, not to knowledgable on big 3 upgrades, its not like my battery is 1 foot away from my alternator its a good 15 ft of wireing from my alt back into my trunk. not sure how you would do that.

 

currently have ab xfl 12 and 3000 watt amp with a brand new group 31 battery and a 2nd car audio battery in the trunk, planning on gettin a new alt soon ho one. but i want to know how thisis goin to work before i spend the $$ on the alt.

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It will work just like any othe big 3. You just need more wire run the power wire to the alt and the ground to the frame if you still see a voltage drop then you'll need the ground to the block as well you should have a 0 gauge power stock wire already if not that may be the issue


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i have zero knowledge on big 3, just know its a good dea since im runnin 3k watts and planning on adding an 2nd amp for highs pretty soon, so your saying id have to run a 0 guage power wire from my battery in my trunk( original car battery) through my car into eng bay and hook it to the alt? and the ground from where the alt to the frame?? i dont need a ho alt to do a big 3? my alt only puts out a whopping 140 or 160 amps haha.

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This is what I'd do in that car.

 

Alt + to bat +

ground alt to frame

ground battery to frame

if you really want to be a man, ground the alt casing to the back battery -


buck.box.designs@gmail.com

I help with full system support, if you need advice

:yumyum: I just like making people happy :yumyum:

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read that but, i can do a big 3 without upgrading my alt? thought that what a big 3 is for for higher power supply to the amp, i dont see how my stock alt is gunna supply more power to my amp with just a big 3 upgrade, or does it not matter what alt i have? as long as i have a better way of providing more power to the amp?

 

have 2 batteries in trunk. the 2nd car audio battery is sealed liquid, but is probably 5 yrs old. would that be causing any problems? dimming issues? my cars battery is no less than 2-3 months old should i just get rid of that 2nd battery considering its old and might be draining the power from my current battery?

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Right now, even with a factory alternator you are trying to fill a thirsty battery by pouring from a pitcher into a straw.

 

The only way to do this properly is make sure the straw is big enough to work with the thirst (or system load) you are presenting.

 

No factory charging system ANYWHERE is meant to keep up with the demands you are placing on it.

 

Step 1. Big 3 with 0 ga. (4 ga. at minimum)

Step 2. Replace battery with a unit more suited to your needs

Step 3. Replace alternator with 250-300 amp unit (175-225 at idle)

 

If you cannot build a Big 3 Kit for yourself, vendors and members here can. Then all you need to do is open the package and install.

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Just doing the big 3 won't require you to get a new alt. It should help your voltage stay up some by making the resistance to the electricity lower as it travels from the alt to the battery.


buck.box.designs@gmail.com

I help with full system support, if you need advice

:yumyum: I just like making people happy :yumyum:

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gotcha, but this old audio battery i have is roughy 5-6 yrs old. its and old svr battery im pretty sure there not supposed to last this long? maybe i should just unhook it and just use main cars battery for now see if it helps? the battery was sittin on a shelf in my garage for a good 6 months and when i threw it back onto the system it was getting realy hot and kindof sounded like it was bubbling or that noise when your drinking from a water bottle and small air bubbles are escaping making that noise. think its time for that battery to go?

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That's a bad sign.

 

That typically is a sign of overcharging. If it also smelled very strong of sulphur, disconnect immediately and leave in a vented area until the noise and smell is gone.

 

Have an AVR test done on your vehicle, or takeout the battery and alternator and bring it to a parts shop for testing.

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Do the big 3 and go from there


"When I listen to a stereo loudspeaker playback in my room and an auditory scene has formed in my mind, how would I know that what I hear is an accurate replica of an auditory scene that could be had at the recording venue? Or more generally, that this is an auditory scene that could have existed at all?"

 

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