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thevolunator
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Hi, I have a 2008 Xterra (see sig.) it has 6x9's in the front doors and 6.5's in the back doors with tweets in the dash. I'm a bit of an "audiophile" but I also don't have a fortune to invest either, so I guess what I'm saying is I want the best setup/sound possible for under a $1000.

My questions are...

- Should I change out my 6x9's to 6.5's in the front doors? I've always heard that 6.5's have better sq than 6x9's...If not what would be the best 6x9 component's out there($300 to $600 range)

- Back doors...I want the best possible "mid bass" so, should I go with a 6.5 driver?(and get ALL my "high's" from my tweets in the dash) or will I be losing to much "mid range" by doing that?

Should I just go with the best possible coax back there and balance out the "High's"? I do like crisp/clean high's...but, which application would make for a better sound stage?

- How possible would it be too or is it even worth the trouble of...trying a small "mid-range/tweeter coax" in the dash to raise the the mid-range/ stage higher?

Don't know if they make any such speaker that small though..

- I plan on Dynamat'ing my doors...Are their any other ways to "seal" or enclose my door speakers to improve my sq?

You can see what I'm working with from my sig...Any suggestions whether it be speaker brands, speaker types or just helpful hints are greatly appreciated.

thanks

Edit: I plan on upgrading my sub eventually, the dealer suggested the JL Audio "Stealth Box" SB-N-XTERR2/12W3v3/2

but, I've read that subs 'aimed' from the side do not sound as good as subs aimed toward the back...I do want to keep the vehicle as close to "stock" as possible.

(don't want to have to move or RE-move the box every time I need to haul something) Thoughts?

 
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Would also like your thoughts/suggestions on brands...The dealer here seems to favor JL Audio for everything,

just want to know that I'm not missing out on better sq because I chose to listen to one salesman.

 
Hi, I have a 2008 Xterra (see sig.) it has 6x9's in the front doors and 6.5's in the back doors with tweets in the dash. I'm a bit of an "audiophile" but I also don't have a fortune to invest either, so I guess what I'm saying is I want the best setup/sound possible for under a $1000.
My questions are...

- Should I change out my 6x9's to 6.5's in the front doors? I've always heard that 6.5's have better sq than 6x9's...If not what would be the best 6x9 component's out there($300 to $600 range)

I would, simply because its easier to get a good 6.5 comp set than a 6x9 one and you can still get good midbass from 6.5s. As far as comps to look into, Hybrid Audio and Boston Acoustics would be my choices in that price range.

- Back doors...I want the best possible "mid bass" so, should I go with a 6.5 driver?(and get ALL my "high's" from my tweets in the dash) or will I be losing to much "mid range" by doing that?

Its pretty common for people to run a midbass in rear, as long as you still run your component set up front, you wont miss out on any midrange.

Should I just go with the best possible coax back there and balance out the "High's"? I do like crisp/clean high's...but, which application would make for a better sound stage?

For simple rear fill, without time alignment and such, and maintain a good sound stage, you could run a mid bandpassed from 300hz to 3000hz and attenuated to keep from interfering with your sound stage. You can do that by simply using your fader on your HU. a coax back there could be pretty difficult to integrate for a good sound stage.

- How possible would it be too or is it even worth the trouble of...trying a small "mid-range/tweeter coax" in the dash to raise the the mid-range/ stage higher?

Don't know if they make any such speaker that small though..

It probably wont be worth the effort unless you just want to do it for something different.

- I plan on Dynamat'ing my doors...Are their any other ways to "seal" or enclose my door speakers to improve my sq?

People typically use sheet metal or mdf to seal up those holes in the door panel. This will increase your midbass and clean up your midrange due to backwave control.

You can see what I'm working with from my sig...Any suggestions whether it be speaker brands, speaker types or just helpful hints are greatly appreciated.

thanks

Edit: I plan on upgrading my sub eventually, the dealer suggested the JL Audio "Stealth Box" SB-N-XTERR2/12W3v3/2

but, I've read that subs 'aimed' from the side do not sound as good as subs aimed toward the back...I do want to keep the vehicle as close to "stock" as possible.

(don't want to have to move or RE-move the box every time I need to haul something) Thoughts? no experience with the JL stealthboxes but you could always just run a sub that likes small boxes like the Dayton Reference HO. I'm sure that wont take up enough space to be a bother but thats up to you.

answered in bold. hope I helped a little

 
answered in bold. hope I helped a little
Thanks man, great stuff! That is a good point and good idea about the rear's(and kind of what I thought might happen to the sound stage)

How easy is it to seal my doors like that? Is that something that I should let the dealer do or is it a "DIY" project?

Also, if the tweets are in dash mounted, do I need to lean toward a "brighter" tweet? (because of the positioning)

And, I read that a lot of people are pumping the Hertz comp's. I just checked them out on line and they have a set of Hertz HSK 165 6.5's for about $500.

How would these compare with the Boston's/Hybrid's that you mentioned?

Edit: also, how important is the crossover? would it be better try and "upgrade" the crossover from a higher end set of components or are the matched specific?

 
Thanks man, great stuff! That is a good point and good idea about the rear's(and kind of what I thought might happen to the sound stage)
How easy is it to seal my doors like that? Is that something that I should let the dealer do or is it a "DIY" project?

depends on how handy you are, you'll need to cut the pieces to fit the door then simply drill screws through the existing frame on the door to hold the seal in place.

Also, if the tweets are in dash mounted, do I need to lean toward a "brighter" tweet? (because of the positioning)

lean towards whatever tweeter sounds best to your ear if you can listen to some stuff before buying. I'm not sure exactly how they are aimed, but depend on your EQ if you find your tweets are too loud or not loud enough in comparison to your mids/midbass. You may actually want to try different tweeter locations before you choose a permanent one as this will affect your sound stage as well.

And, I read that a lot of people are pumping the Hertz comp's. I just checked them out on line and they have a set of Hertz HSK 165 6.5's for about $500.

How would these compare with the Boston's/Hybrid's that you mentioned?

I hear good things about Hertz comps online, I've listened to their whole lineup except the Mille and they do sound very smooth, but a little overpriced IMO.

Hybrid Audio is known for winning SQ comps left and right with their products, thus that suggestion, pricey as well though. Boston Acoustics makes some of my favorite comps though. They perform well in every price range IMO. They are very smooth and detailed. But, remember my ears are different than yours. Its always best to try and listen to some speakers before buying especially for the money youre lookiing to spend. If you cant, then I guess you'll have to rely on reviews which in that case, I still vote for either Hybrid or Boston. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Edit: also, how important is the crossover? would it be better try and "upgrade" the crossover from a higher end set of components or are the matched specific?

just use the crossover that comes with them, upgrading it will not change the sound and can actually ruin it since the xovers are designed to work with the impedance changes and phase shifts of those particular drivers.
bold again!

 
bold again!
Thanks again...

I think that I'll "price check" and see how much they'll charge to seal the doors and dynamat them. Maybe a way for me to save money and do it myself.

As for the tweeter positions...They're flat, pointing strait up toward the sky, which is why I thought it may be a good thing to go with a slightly bright tweet.(it's hard to tell though because most of the time when you're listening at the store, the tweets are pointed directed at you)

As of now, I'm looking at...either.

Hertz - Comp HighEnergy HSK 165xl's for staging, with the Hertz Comp HighEnergy HV 165XL's in the rear doors(bandpassed from 300hz to 3000hz like you suggested)

or

Hybrid Audio - Clarus C61-2's for staging with a good quality mid-bass driver(can't find a Hybrid on line)for the rear doors

or

JL Audio - C5-570's for my stage with the C5-650cw's in the rear doors

or

Focal - 165 KR's for my staging with a slightly cheaper 'mid-bass driver' in the rear doors(probably a different brand)

So, those are the one's I'm down too. Next on the list is trying to cut that list to two/three. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif

 
Thanks again...
I think that I'll "price check" and see how much they'll charge to seal the doors and dynamat them. Maybe a way for me to save money and do it myself.

As for the tweeter positions...They're flat, pointing strait up toward the sky, which is why I thought it may be a good thing to go with a slightly bright tweet.(it's hard to tell though because most of the time when you're listening at the store, the tweets are pointed directed at you)

As of now, I'm looking at...either.

Hertz - Comp HighEnergy HSK 165xl's for staging, with the Hertz Comp HighEnergy HV 165XL's in the rear doors(bandpassed from 300hz to 3000hz like you suggested)

or

Hybrid Audio - Clarus C61-2's for staging with a good quality mid-bass driver(can't find a Hybrid on line)for the rear doors

or

JL Audio - C5-570's for my stage with the C5-650cw's in the rear doors

or

Focal - 165 KR's for my staging with a slightly cheaper 'mid-bass driver' in the rear doors(probably a different brand)

So, those are the one's I'm down too. Next on the list is trying to cut that list to two/three. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif
on the note of the tweeters, if theyre facing straight up, theyre probably reflecting off of the windshield and sometimes this can cause them to seem "bright". Just find some tweeters you like and play around with the EQ and placement and aiming on them to tailor the sound for your liking.

Why no Boston Acoustics in the line up? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
on the note of the tweeters, if theyre facing straight up, theyre probably reflecting off of the windshield and sometimes this can cause them to seem "bright". Just find some tweeters you like and play around with the EQ and placement and aiming on them to tailor the sound for your liking.
Why no Boston Acoustics in the line up? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

I do like the Boston-Pro60SE's but I have the same issue with them as I do the Focal & the Hybrid's...I cant find a comparable mid-bass driver for the rear's.

As far as the tweets then...I could go with a good 'silk' (cause I read where normally silk tweets aren't as bright) tweeter and it would be bright enough reflecting off the windshield?

Guess I'm going out tomorrow to see if I can listen to some of them...I know the place that installed my hu carries Focal/Boston/JL Audio but, I don't know who carries the Hertz/Hybrid's locally.

Also, on the subs...I had/have (2) of the JL 6w3v3's in my Ford F-150 extended cab.(before I wrecked it) Now, I have the Xterra. Those subs sounded really good in the truck.(haven't had them in the Xterra yet) But, the salesman at the dealer said those probably wouldn't work in the Xterra.(which is why I was looking into the 'stealth box") and like I posted earlier a lot of people say that subs mounted from the side don't hit the "sweet spot" in SUV applications...I guess what I'm saying is, I don't want to shell out that extra $1200 for the stealth box & amp if I can achieve close to the same sq with my current amp/subs. What do you think?

 
I do like the Boston-Pro60SE's but I have the same issue with them as I do the Focal & the Hybrid's...I cant find a comparable mid-bass driver for the rear's.
As far as the tweets then...I could go with a good 'silk' (cause I read where normally silk tweets aren't as bright) tweeter and it would be bright enough reflecting off the windshield?

Guess I'm going out tomorrow to see if I can listen to some of them...I know the place that installed my hu carries Focal/Boston/JL Audio but, I don't know who carries the Hertz/Hybrid's locally.

Also, on the subs...I had/have (2) of the JL 6w3v3's in my Ford F-150 extended cab.(before I wrecked it) Now, I have the Xterra. Those subs sounded really good in the truck.(haven't had them in the Xterra yet) But, the salesman at the dealer said those probably wouldn't work in the Xterra.(which is why I was looking into the 'stealth box") and like I posted earlier a lot of people say that subs mounted from the side don't hit the "sweet spot" in SUV applications...I guess what I'm saying is, I don't want to shell out that extra $1200 for the stealth box & amp if I can achieve close to the same sq with my current amp/subs. What do you think?
for the rear midbass, you can always go to partsexpress.com and pick up a nice one that 'll just do the job of rear fill. If you go on Hybrid's website, you can find dealers as well.

for the subs.....honestly, I'm not sure. Its pretty obvious youre not looking for much bass...what about a JL Audio 12w6 in a nice sealed or ported box. will do very nice for SQ with that 600w rms. or also look into the Dayton Reference HO 12 Dual Voice Coil on partsexpress.com I've had both subs, and the SQ is very similar, the w6 has more output though.

 
for the rear midbass, you can always go to partsexpress.com and pick up a nice one that 'll just do the job of rear fill. If you go on Hybrid's website, you can find dealers as well.
for the subs.....honestly, I'm not sure. Its pretty obvious youre not looking for much bass...what about a JL Audio 12w6 in a nice sealed or ported box. will do very nice for SQ with that 600w rms. or also look into the Dayton Reference HO 12 Dual Voice Coil on partsexpress.com I've had both subs, and the SQ is very similar, the w6 has more output though.
Yeah, that's kind of what the dealer said...My only issue with my current subs is their range, they didn't have as much "bottom" as I'm looking for. and he said that they would be worse in the Xterra because there is "more air to move". I guess, my thought was if I direct them toward the back window(the "sweet spot") that they might work. (temporarily at least) Also, I don't have the XD600/1 yet...was going to buy it when I got the stealth box...hence the "extra $1200" in the last post.

This is also why I'm was wanting to get a nice quality driver for rear doors to help out with the mid to low end...

Edit: would it be better to use the money that I had set aside for the sub upgrade and get the "Imprint" system from Alpine? I would like to know how much difference that actually makes in sq..

 
you'll get much better pricing if you buy online and simply let them do the install work, unless you can do it yourself. no way it should be $1200 for a 600w amp and a entry level 12.

your issue with the low end could be the enclosure, but probably just since they are only 6's they wont do as well down low as a larger sub due to less cone area.

as long as you get good comps up front, and seal those doors, youll have all the midbass you need. Most comps will play down to 80hz and the ones you are looking at probably will go even lower, the rear midbass will only be rear fill. Your subs can pick up where your fronts leave off.

 
So, just any good mid-range will be good in the rear then?

I was looking at "driver" type mid's thinking I could tune them for the lower end/ mid-bass to the middle frequency's (kind of like setting them up as a 3-way comp system...as I type this out though I see that probably won't work)

And, yes I think I can do most of the work...(except building a custom box) They said that the sub would run around $150 to $200 and probably twice that amount for the box.(which puts me in the $600 range) then the amp is $400 on the JL website(also what they quoted me)

that's how I came upon the $1200 number(for installation and everything)

My box with the 6's was a "custom" ported box that they built to fit under the back seat of my truck(the one I wrecked)

I wonder If I could just get a different type box built for my 6's that might help me get more out of them....(I don't know)

Would love to be able to invest some of that money back into my comps/enclosures.

And no, I'm not worried about the spl outside of the car, I just want it to hit every note in every range inside the car.

(by hit, I mean move the air inside the car down to the lowest low...

pretty sure you know what I mean. It's hard to explain to someone who doesn't

get into this stuff like we do though)

 
Here is the stealth box I've been looking at...He said the XD600/1 would be perfect for it...It rms's @ 500w (with a peak of 1000w)
14090.jpg


 
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