Jump to content


Sign in to follow this  
sizzl3r

Clarion HU Producing No Sound

Recommended Posts

I have a Clarion CZ200 (here's a pic). Amazon.com: Online Shopping for Electronics, Apparel, Computers, Books, DVDs & more

 

anyway, I have it installed in my 99 ford ranger with a 10'' punch sub and 200 watt jensen Amp. My brother, who was driving the car at the time when the sound stopped, said that he was just driving and he heard a small "pop", the sound you hear when you plug in/out an aux cord, and then there was no sound. The deck and amp still turn on, but there's no sound coming from the speakers or sub. All the wires are wired fine, and fuses are not blown, because if they were then the deck/amp wouldn't turn on.

 

I disconnected the illumination wire because apparently i would smell if something got fried or not, and nothing was.

 

i dont know what could have caused this. if i could get some advice on what might have happened and what i could do to fix this, that would be much appreciated.


2004 Honda Civic LX

MTX 600XD

12'' Orion H2 12.4

 

Bought From: loudstratus, haunther

Scammed once

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hope this will help. I had a CLarion and for whatever reason it did the same thing. Happens about once every 3-4 months. Search through all the funtions and you should see where it says system check. In my experience, thjose(well mine did) automatically shuts down and requires you to run a systems check on it. Freaked me out the first time it happened. Try that, it should work

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm, sounds like a good idea. I can't seem to figure out how to do a system check.


2004 Honda Civic LX

MTX 600XD

12'' Orion H2 12.4

 

Bought From: loudstratus, haunther

Scammed once

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my particular h/u was a touch screen even though it was single din. Maybe u could download the manual online and get info there. Its like when you scroll through bass,treble, xover frequencies,etc. Its somewhere in there like that. Mine unit even said "system check" and then i would scroll up or down and it would perform the check in like 10 seconds and the music would just come back on

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I looked In the Manual and it didn't say anything about a system check. I just called clarion and the guy told me to take off the faceplate and hit the reset button. I did and it didn't work. If mine even has a system check, I'd still like to try that, because anything is better than nothing.


2004 Honda Civic LX

MTX 600XD

12'' Orion H2 12.4

 

Bought From: loudstratus, haunther

Scammed once

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create a free account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's free & easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


  • Similar Content

    • By mrpep
      I have a Yukon 2003 that has 3 rows so space is tight between the 3rd row and the hatch rear door. I have no big three upgrade.  I am using 4 Gage OFC from the battery to the fuse and CCA Gage from that point to a secondary battery that runs in parallel, the cca to amp. I run short grounds of CCA 4Gage from the battery to a threaded seat post that has had the zinc cleaned off so it is all metal to metal contact. I use a Alpine mrx1000 so 1000 rms monoblock to power a W6V3 and I have just bought a used W7 10" in a ported box. My concern is that I am not getting enough power but the the W7, it is rated at 750 rms. Should this system do for what I need? I have heard of Head units clipping , how do I know if mine is ? Am I getting enough power to the sub? I did hear some clipping when I was trying to tune my amp/ gain so I feel enough power did make it to sub but want to get your thoughts on this. Im just tryint to make sure that I am not bottlenecking or losing power. 
    • By mrpep
      I just bought a used w7 in a ported box that actually sounds pretty good. Thing is it’s a bit punchy for my taste. The box is 14x15x17 and the port is maybe 2”. I usually like 2 c/ft for a 12 at about 32 to 34 hz so I’m thinking that either a longer box like 28” with a larger port maybe 3” might bring that less punchy and more soft deep bass I’m looking for. Can someone design one for me? My capabilities are 14w x15h x40 deep - please help, thanks - also, does this forum work on tapatalk 
    • By saucemessiah
      So I recently purchased 4 Polk Audio DB652's for my 2012 Subaru Impreza (with a stock in-dash stereo). I like them but I wanted more out of them so I purchased a Pioneer D9605 5 channel amp. I chose this amp because I wanted to see more output from my current 4 door speakers and a sub woofer that I am planning on getting (Rockford Fosgate P3D4 12"). I feel like I got my amp without being well informed on other factors and was wondering what some great car enthusiast think of my purchases and car audio goals. Ask any questions that I would need to further clarify to help y'all help me!  Also, are the Polk door speakers I got that great?
      All help and recommendations are very much appreciated!!!
      P.s. I don't have a large knowledge of car audio if it isn't yet obvious.
       
    • By RadioShackSQ
      Hello folks! I'm currently putting together a modest SQ build and have run into a bit of a snag with subwoofer, enclosure, and amplifier selection and would greatly appreciate some advice on the matter. The snag is my lack of familiarity with the current "good brands" and the strange lack of shops willing to demo SQ subwoofers or their "high end" subwoofers. While the overall goal is excellent sound quality, I am an oldschool basshead at heart and still want exceptional levels of loud when the mood strikes me. I have, over a few decades, owned various sizes of subwoofers and enclosures and have found that they all have their own merrits however, my favorite subs/enclosure were 2 Soundstream SS10R's (circa mid nineties) sealed with a 600w monoblock supplying the juice. I would love to have something that either matches the level of output and accuracy of that set up or exceeds it, in terms of sonic transparency, as well as the ability to compliment my front stage set up and rattle some door parts loose. I have access to Arc Audio, Hertz, Focal, FI, DD, DA, JL, Audio Frog, Sun Down, and Fosgate.  I would prefer to stay within a budget of $1500 for sub(s) and amplifier. The environment is a 2018 Mustang GT, and I have, roughly 3 cubic feet to use for enclosure space. The build, so far, is as follows:
      •Hertz Mille pro 163.3 three way front stage fully active.
      •Arc Audio XDi 1200.6
      •Arc Audio PS8 DSP
      Any help would be greatly appreciated!
    • By TeamPSI
      Haven't been here in a bit, and figured I'd drop a few random shots of some of the latest subs we've been building/re-building here at the shop.
       
      Full pictorials with step-by-step build pics are at our forum, if you want to see them all. I'll just post finished pics in this post.
       
      Don't mean to spam the place up.... just know how we all love to see random subwoofer pron!
       
       
      If you have any questios, please ask. If not, enjoy the pics.
       









×