ZED says running @ 1 ohm is dumb

gain is gain it is supposed to be used to match the signal output of the deck to the input sensitivity of the amp, however with d class amps the gain is directly correlative to output voltage.
all i needed to no. lol. i was just curious but you would then the impedance helps with the amount of power that goes to the sub

 
incorrect the higher the ohm load the amps rated at the more voltage it needs to do so zapco 9.0s are rated at 4 ohms and are said to put over 200 volts on the speaker outputs where as a 1 ohm stable amp put it out at 50 to 100 just an example not true voltage numbers but you should get the picture your gain should not change once set at differant ohm loads

 
incorrect the higher the ohm load the amps rated at the more voltage it needs to do so zapco 9.0s are rated at 4 ohms and are said to put over 200 volts on the speaker outputs where as a 1 ohm stable amp put it out at 50 to 100 just an example not true voltage numbers but you should get the picture your gain should not change once set at differant ohm loads
ohhh, that makes sense. thanks

 
i guess the 4 ohm thing does make sense though if amps were built to produce there power at higher ohm loads the zapco 9.0 is one of the most effieant amps i have ever used and does rated power at 4 ohms and it really small for the power it produces and sounds amazing i have a friend with one battery and a ho alt that runs 2 zapco 9.0s full tilt will almost no voltage drop

 
IVE FIGURED IT OUT!

Lets say you have a shitty civic with a 60a alt.

20a is used for your car's lights etc.

so you have 40a to work with.

a 1000w amp ran @ 1 ohm might use 60a, which is more than you have to spare.

Where as a 1000w amp ran @ 4 ohms might only take 40a.

Right? So anyone with a stock electrical and a limited amount of power would find it adventitious to run their sub at a higher ohm rating?

 
IVE FIGURED IT OUT!
Lets say you have a shitty civic with a 60a alt.

20a is used for your car's lights etc.

so you have 40a to work with.

a 1000w amp ran @ 1 ohm might use 60a, which is more than you have to spare.

Where as a 1000w amp ran @ 4 ohms might only take 40a.

Right? So anyone with a stock electrical and a limited amount of power would find it adventitious to run their sub at a higher ohm rating?
that is something to think bout. id ask audioholic

 
so in essence, a 2 or 4 ohm load can supply more power than a 1 ohm load if you have a stock electrical.

You have 40a to work with. a 1 ohm load takes 60a to make 1000w, while a 4ohm load takes 40a to make 1000w. So a 1 ohm load will leave you with like 700w (or realistically speaking, your battery will take up the slack, until it dies that is)

 
Sorry, I forgot this is the internet and everyone is a god **** genius //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
PS: Your statement is still incorrect.
Awwww, someone cant argue the points I made directly, so they name call and try to take it to a personal level. Boohoo.

 
IVE FIGURED IT OUT!
Lets say you have a shitty civic with a 60a alt.

20a is used for your car's lights etc.

so you have 40a to work with.

a 1000w amp ran @ 1 ohm might use 60a, which is more than you have to spare.

Where as a 1000w amp ran @ 4 ohms might only take 40a.

Right? So anyone with a stock electrical and a limited amount of power would find it adventitious to run their sub at a higher ohm rating?
watts = amps*volts
So lets assume 12 volts first.

1000w = amps * 12v so, 1000w/12v = 83.33 amps

Now, at 14.4v.

1000w = amps * 14.4v so, 1000/14.4 = 69.44amps

These equations do not factor in for amplifier efficiency however, they assume 100% efficiency. Efficiency varies according to amplifier topology, and even by how hard the amplifier is being driven. Its a little known fact that class AB amps have a much closer efficiency to class D at max output than people tend to think. Its at lower power levels that class D amps outshine AB's so drastically. But that's another story for another day. Lets assume 80% efficiency. So take the two calcs I just provided and multiply by 120% (80% efficient) and you'll get 99.99 amps, and 83.3amps. This is approximately the draw these amplifiers will consume at those two voltages (assuming an unregulated power supply). Speaker impedance is not part of the equation, other than to affect the wattage portion of the equation. We had to assume the speaker impedance was an amount that allowed the amplifier to output 1000 watts, be it 4ohms, 2ohms, or whatever. If the amp produces 1000 watts at 2ohms, but the speaker hooked to it was 4ohms, the calculation for current draw from the amp would not have included "1000 watts", it would have been 500 watts.

Hope that helps.

 
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