Yes another build help question

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stadtberlor

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I mostly want to check and run this by you guys and see if you have any suggestions. I want to make sure all these components will work together and will provide a decent system and that my money is being spent relatively well.

Car is a 2016 Corolla. I'll be keeping the stock radio and unplugging the rear speakers. My overall budget basically includes what is listed below. I can't go much past that, especially since there will be another $100 in various costs for tools and install gear and wires, etc. Total (including the misc expenses) i'm looking at about $800.

Goals for this build: primarily SQ based, and i also want everything stealth except for JUST the sub in the trunk. I will do minor modifications but for the most part the car needs to be able to be returned to basically stock if i decide to trade/sell it in a few years. I need my trunk space and need to be able to empty it out without unplugging a bunch of wires, which is why i'm not running the amp in the trunk. I'll be mounting the amp under the passenger seat. Crossovers will probably go behind the kick panels, depending. The LOC i'm thinking in the glove box or under the seat with the amp. I want to keep things relatively simple, hence the small amp under the seat and just a single 12 in the trunk.

Parts:

Morel Maximo Comps - 90w RMS/ea - $150

PPI Phantom 900.5 - $180

Audiocontrol LC2i - $65

Image Dynamics IDQ12 D4 v4 - 750w RMS (or possibly just the IQ12)

Sealed ~1cu ft prebuilt enclosure

I will probably run the comps passively off 4 of the channels bridged at least to start.

Couple things i have questions about:

1) are active components even worth it for a build like mine? I don't know that ill have the tools or skills to really tweak things anyways, but my amp should be capable of crossing over the tweeters/mids for an active setup. My amp only does 70w @ 4ohm for the mids, which is why i was going to bridge them and keep the passive crossovers. Thoughts on this and if it would be doable to go active with the wattage i'm working with? The only main advantage i can really see with active is being able to tweak xover, volume, and eq between the mids and tweeters better. Please correct me if i'm wrong.

2) DSP. I know people make a big point of this especially in builds with a factory radio/touchscreen. My research has led me to believe that i should be fine with just the Audiocontrol adding bass back into the signal. I have no doubt that being able to time delay and eq precisely would benefit me, but I don't really have $300+ to throw at a DSP right now, and even if i did i'm not sure i'd be capable of tuning the system and taking advantage of the DSP anyway. I'm open to suggestion if anyone can convince me that a DSP is absolutely essential and will dramatically increase the quality of my system. Do these DSP systems have enough automation to where i can let the software adjust things or use a mic to tweak things or see what needs to be changed? Is the LC2i good enough for what i'm wanting to do?

Alternatively, if the factory radio is causing big issues and impacting the sound, i had also considered putting in this small, cheap little Clarion EQ (755), and using that as a clean source, seeing as how i will primarily be running music from my phone and it has an AUX. Basically bypassing the entire stock head unit when i need to but still retaining steering wheel control functionality, etc.

3) Ive been questioning the wattage of the sub and the wattage that the amp can put out for the sub. The amp will do 450W @2ohms. Is it okay for my sub to have a much higher RMS? I was told that it won't damage anything and will leave me room to upgrade to a louder amp/monoblock down the line but i'm concerned about it not being enough power/loudness. Would it be better/louder to step down to something like a 450W or 500W RMS sub? I want the system to kick and be able to enjoy it. I realize i'm not going to be shaking the whole street or anything. Is putting like 350W (leaving enough headroom so the amp doesnt clip) into a 750W sub going to be plenty loud to enjoy some low end on hip hop/trap stuff?

I'm not opposed to making upgrades down the line like maybe a touchscreen android head unit, or some type of DSP, or a dedicated sub amp. But for now, do you think this is a good start to get me a system that i can enjoy music and drive around with? Again, i can't be spending like $1000+ just yet. Also not opposed to buying used or on forums, but i'm pretty set on that amp and Morel comps.

 
1. You are correct all around. I'd suggest you stick with the passive crossovers if you're not either daring, patient, or experienced with setting crossover points on your separates.

Some DSPs come with a mic that you set up and they pretty much set themselves. I'm really not up on which offers what or what your audiocontrol will or won't do. Factory head units can often be a source of noise or poor signal.... one way to find out if it'll work or not. If you have to replace it, don't go too cheap in aftermarket or you'll wind up in the same boat. Decent middle of the road single DIN should run you around 250$ if you shop around and will get you some nice options and remove the possibility of your source unit being a weak link in that price range.

3. What's "loud enough" is very subjective. You won't hurt anything from too little power to your woofer and the IDQ is a great solution in small sealed box. It'll sound good, perform as advertised and hold fairly good resale value if you don't physically destroy it. As far as being evenly balanced with the rest of your music it should be fine, but you're talking about not a lot of power, a 10" sub in a small sealed box, and running it in a trunk so you have a lot of obstacles in the way of anything most of us would consider loud.

 
Okay makes sense.

As a side note...i've think i've talked myself into the MS-8 somehow. It would basically do a number of functions, all of which are good and might replace other components i was thinking about getting, like a LOC or EQ or adding a clean AUX input, as well: acts as a high low converter, allowing me to run high level right into it bringing my factory audio down, allow me to set specific crossover points with different slopes i might need and effectively make me able run a 5 channel active setup without the difficulty of tweaking things or really knowing much at all aside from what my ears tell me sounds good, automatically set EQ, time adjustment, and other adjustments using the binaural mic and (hopefully) counteracting any nastiness that the factory radio introduces, and even if the factory unit is garbage, the MS-8 has an AUX input on it, giving me a completely clean input and bypassing the stock system entirely.

Anyone looking to sell theirs off, please let me know

 
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stadtberlor

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