yay I'm in the 150 club!

I used to drive to Redmond on a daily basis, Genie Industries, and hated the traffic, rude people, now there's tolls put up, etc. Almost 100 miles round trip. That's gonna rack up the mileage real quick on any vehicle.
I-405 and I-5 are the worst traffic conditions in the state.

I'll gladly keep my 6 mile trip to work //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
Shoot. I'm in Seattle at the Westin building right now doing a battery swap on some UPSes.

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Nah, they've got enough float.
I just need all my fucking alternators to work properly

My buddy with the Hhr ran four ab 750.1 daily on two excessive 350a Alts and two lithium batts. So if your 4 alts and 20+ batts arnt holding voltage something is wrong. Either u have some bad battery's or your connections are bad somewhere, or alts just arnt working at all. Because you should have plenty of electrical for your amps.

 
My buddy with the Hhr ran four ab 750.1 daily on two excessive 350a Alts and two lithium batts. So if your 4 alts and 20+ batts arnt holding voltage something is wrong. Either u have some bad battery's or your connections are bad somewhere, or alts just arnt working at all. Because you should have plenty of electrical for your amps.
Or just as likely your friend's build is efficient enough that he can get painfully loud without having to really push things. Agreed though, something is terribly wrong if electrical isn't adequate... unless I'm missing something? How many AH are those batteries?

 
My buddy with the Hhr ran four ab 750.1 daily on two excessive 350a Alts and two lithium batts. So if your 4 alts and 20+ batts arnt holding voltage something is wrong. Either u have some bad battery's or your connections are bad somewhere, or alts just arnt working at all. Because you should have plenty of electrical for your amps.
What was his voltage drop?

Or just as likely your friend's build is efficient enough that he can get painfully loud without having to really push things. Agreed though, something is terribly wrong if electrical isn't adequate... unless I'm missing something? How many AH are those batteries?
They're 70 ah each.

Before the US alt, I was getting 13's while driving full tilt and 12's idling. After the US alt, I was getting 13.5v at the lowest. After trying the PCM bypass, I'm getting lower 13's and the engine seems to bog down more. With only the US alt connected, It eother charges at 13.5 or kicks off completely (even with the "PCM bypass").

 
What was his voltage drop?


They're 70 ah each.

Before the US alt, I was getting 13's while driving full tilt and 12's idling. After the US alt, I was getting 13.5v at the lowest. After trying the PCM bypass, I'm getting lower 13's and the engine seems to bog down more. With only the US alt connected, It eother charges at 13.5 or kicks off completely (even with the "PCM bypass").

He would drop 2volt. Started 16.8v and full tilt demo would be about 14.5v.. and that's two alts and two batts even if the batt were 112ah lithiums. Your 28batts or whatever you have should be able to hold there own if they are good batteries

My Tahoe with quad alts and four batts... I can't drive and play ful tilt. It Boggs the motor down way to much. I have to be reving to 3k rpm because when the alts load down I drop 1500rpm.

 
i had that problem until i added the caps, it used to nearly kill the engine when i was pulling up to a light. high current draws still do it but its much better now and more "Smoothed" out

ive only got 2 alternators on a v8 5.3 if it matters

 
He would drop 2volt. Started 16.8v and full tilt demo would be about 14.5v.. and that's two alts and two batts even if the batt were 112ah lithiums. Your 28batts or whatever you have should be able to hold there own if they are good batteries
My Tahoe with quad alts and four batts... I can't drive and play ful tilt. It Boggs the motor down way to much. I have to be reving to 3k rpm because when the alts load down I drop 1500rpm.
14v system is different. Dropping 2v, he's at battery voltage!! Plus, they're lithium. I hooked the stock wiring back up to the US alt, and now 13.7 is as low as I drop, which still isn't battery voltage even. It doesn't bog down as much now as it did with the PCM bypass hooked up.

You've got issues, because I can bump and drive. I never go over 3k rpm.... That's where I shift in tow mode getting up to highway speeds....

i had that problem until i added the caps, it used to nearly kill the engine when i was pulling up to a light. high current draws still do it but its much better now and more "Smoothed" out
ive only got 2 alternators on a v8 5.3 if it matters
I haven't had the problem until adding the US alt.

You've got issues if 2 alts are almost killing your engine. I've got quads and even with a carbon-pile dead short, the alts didn't kill the engine. That was pulling max draw.

 
You've got issues if 2 alts are almost killing your engine. I've got quads and even with a carbon-pile dead short, the alts didn't kill the engine. That was pulling max draw.
not in a dick way but we went over this already im pretty sure it has to do with the way your engine compensates with the alternators being loaded down. your electrical system is different in the later nbs fullsize around 04-07

2 alts doesnt come close to killing it, just more of a nuisance having the engine bog down 200-300 rpm coming up to a red light. it compensates once it realizes the load but it lags on bass that has short bursts of draw

 
not in a dick way but we went over this already im pretty sure it has to do with the way your engine compensates with the alternators being loaded down. your electrical system is different in the later nbs fullsize around 04-07
2 alts doesnt come close to killing it, just more of a nuisance having the engine bog down 200-300 rpm coming up to a red light. it compensates once it realizes the load but it lags on bass that has short bursts of draw
Yeah, my throttle body is electronically controlled. You're right, we've had this conversation, lol

 
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