Wiring speakers to 4 channel amp

[Sizzlechest]

I bought a soundstream RUB4.500 amp that I'd like to run at 125x4 at 2 ohms.

My car has speakers in the rear, dash and front doors (total of 6).. If I wanted to run two speakers off of each of the front channels (L/R front would each have 2 speakers) what speaker ohm combination would allow the amp to run at 2 ohms? Im looking at 2 ohm JBL GTO328's for dash and rear, and possibly infinity 6.5" 2 ohm for doors.

This is more of an opinion question...The speakers in the doors are 6.5" and were used for bass in the factory system. I've added a sub in my trunk so I do not need these for bass. Would it be better to just use 3.5" speakers in my dash and rear and not use the door speakers at all?

Thanks

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[big scott]

yes you can wire 2 speakers together for a 2ohm if your speakers are 4ohms each.

when you do this you want both speakers to be the same..

dont wire a tweeter and 6.5 together...

so if you have say 2- 6.5 in each door then yes you wire them together for a 2 ohm load on the amp.

i would run the 6.5 in the door,, tweeters in door or a-pillar ,, and some 3" or 4" to do a 3-way system. if you only want a 2-way then 6.5 and tweeters.

but dont wire them together as you need to give each speaker there own crossover points.

hope that make cents to ya... if not let me know.

 

[Sizzlechest]

Both speakers are 2 ohm and each has a speaker with tweeter in the middle (one is 3.5" one is 6.25"). So this would create a 1 ohm load? What's wrong with wiring two of this type of speaker? Just the fact that they can't be crossed the differently?

 

[Jepalan]

That amp is only 2-ohm stable. So you cannot connect 2-ohm speakers in parallel. Stick to just 4 speakers.

I would keep the 6.5" door speakers in the mix so you don't lose mid bass. Either eliminate the dash speakers or the rear deck speakers. Since the dash and deck are both 3.5" you could try it both ways.

Set your sub woofer amp on 80Hz low pass and put the door speakers on 80Hz high pass. Experiment with the high pass setting for the 3.5" speakers (dash or rear) - you will want to set those higher than 80 Hz so you don't over-drive them - maybe somewhere between 90 and 120Hz.

 

[Sizzlechest]

Thanks for your response!

I think the dash speakers provide most of the vocals so if anything I'd want to keep those, at the same time would it be weird having nothing coming from the rear?

And do you think I will be ok with the power ratings on the speakers with this amp?

 

[Jepalan]

What model/make car are you putting these in?

Are you using the factory head unit or an aftermarket head unit?

Which Infinity speakers are your looking at?

 

[Sizzlechest]

What model/make car are you putting these in? Are you using the factory head unit or an aftermarket head unit?

Which Infinity speakers are your looking at?

2013 Subaru BRZ Limited. On the front dash under the windshield in each corner holds a 3.5". In the rear, each side of the rear seat has a 3.5". The 6.5" goes in the doors--I haven't used these speakers in over a year and plan to keep it that way unless someone talks me out of it.

Aftermarket Android radio from China, which is what triggered this little upgrade. The built-in 50x4 amp isn't cutting it, the unit is basically a tablet fitted into a double din case. I'm hoping the SQ coming out of the rca out's sounds decent once everything is running off of amps.

I have a 12" Sundown audio SA12 sub in a sealed box powered by a Soundstream RUB1.1000D @ 1000x1 @ 1 ohm.

JBL GTO328 in front dash and rear

Infinity Reference 6032cf in doors

Can you recommend anything better than those JBL's? I don't want to waste my money on speakers that will sounds

 

[Jepalan]

When matching power ratings between amp and speakers, only use the "RMS" power ratings. Ignore any "Peak" ratings.

Your amp is rated to put 125 W RMS per channel into a 2-ohm load and 75 W RMS into a 4 ohm load.

It is going to be very hard to find 125 W RMS speakers within your budget, and running 2 ohms won't do any good if you can't put the extra amp power into sound instead of blown speakers. You might want to look for 60 W RMS or 75 W RMS 4-ohm speakers. It will give you more choices and a better power match to the amp.

The JBL speakers are only rated at 25 W RMS. Seems like you are a bit overpowered here, but I have never run 3.5" speakers so I can't really offer alternatives.

Hopefully some others will chime in with ideas for you.

 

[Sizzlechest]

That's what I thought, matching RMS wattage at each end. What is a common power level for highs\non-subwoofer speakers? Is 75-125 watts per speaker on the low or high end? Anyone with speaker recommendations please chime in.

 

[Sizzlechest]

I can't find any 3.5" 2-ohm speakers that can handle 125 watts RMS.

Do you think I will get enough sound out of 4-ohm 75 watt RMS speakers, if I decide to go that route?

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Regarding rear speakers...

In the SQ crowd rear speakers are an after-thought at best. Commonly referred to as rear "fill". Some people choose to run w/o them altogether.

Technically there is no "rear" in car audio. There's only left and right.

The prevailing theory seems to be that if you have a lot of sound coming from rear speakers all you're really doing is creating some cancellation/imaging issues with the fronts.

For the past several years I've used stock rear speakers and HU power, and that's with front components seeing around 500w rms and a sub getting 1000w rms.

 

[Sizzlechest]

As long as that sounds good I guess I am ok with it.

So maybe I should run my doors and dash from the amp, and rears from the radio itself?

My only concern is maybe the rears distorting earlier than my fronts. Upgrading the rear speakers will probably prevent this issue? I could always adjust the fade/balance to reduce sound coming from rear.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

As long as that sounds good I guess I am ok with it.
So maybe I should run my doors and dash from the amp, and rears from the radio itself?

My only concern is maybe the rears distorting earlier than my fronts. Upgrading the rear speakers will probably prevent this issue? I could always adjust the fade/balance to reduce sound coming from rear.

It's really a matter of personal preference. There's always more than one way to get it done, and usually more than one is a reasonable option.

One easy way to reduce rear speaker distortion using HU power is to add a pair of bass blockers. That's what I did in my old car.

In my current van (ugh) the rears are totally stock. I just run the HU bass setting around zero (range from -8 to +8) which keeps the rear fill sounding good, and adjust the component and sub amp to account for that.