right. so make one solid ground to the frame for the 2nd battery, then ground both of my amps (one is a 4 channel kenwood, one is a sundown 1500) to the ground on the battery. got it. i would run a second run to the front, if it would make THAT much of a difference but that is a lot of 1/0 cable. ill try it like this and then if i notice voltage drops ill change it around. thanks!The only change in what you have said above would be to ground the amps directly to the rear battery. DC electricity runs in loops. The electrons flow from the POS+ terminal and return back to the NEG- terminal. If they have to travel further to do that, it requires more power to do so, thus making your system less energy efficient. Why not make the direct connection and make it more power efficient?
As for grounding the rear battery to the front, if you have a full frame, then using the frame rail is OK. But if it is a unibody car, you should run a separate ground wire that matches the POS+ wire you ran from the front.
do you suk da penis with that smart azz mouth of yours? who are you Kevin Nye the science guy or sumtin. come sit in my truck and tell me i got sub at all. i just tell you teh numbers off the digital voltage gauges mang, i aint no wiz kid like you so but out, my comments i put on here are truthful as well as my advice on how to wire it up so get over it.Dude you are so talking out your *** you have no idea. Tell me, what voltage does your Batcap rest at? Is it above 14.0v? What voltage does your alt output? Is it above 14.0v? Unless your voltage is dropping to that of your battery, it is not receiving any voltage at all from it. So unless you have 16v batteries, they rest around 13.0v. Since they rest at 13.0v, they cannot possibly provide any amps of power above that voltage. Once they begin to provide amps of power, the voltage will drop accordingly. So let's say for instance you have a load of 300a. Let's say your load is static and that your alt is rated at a static 200a @ 14.4v. You would then receive your first 200a of voltage at the 14.4v and the remaining voltage from the battery at maximum 13.0v. In reality, your battery voltage will drop some under a 100a load. Depending on the size of battery, it will likely drop at least half a volt. Therefore you have a current voltage of 12.5v at best.
If you are being truthfull about your voltage staying at 14.6v at full tilt, that would imply that your voltage of your alt is 14.6v and is able to produce more amps of current than your load requires. Therefore, no need for a battery at all. That means you have a very small audio system, likely with no sub at all.
So by that reply I can assume that you are one of the following:do you suk da penis with that smart azz mouth of yours? who are you Kevin Nye the science guy or sumtin. come sit in my truck and tell me i got sub at all. i just tell you teh numbers off the digital voltage gauges mang, i aint no wiz kid like you so but out, my comments i put on here are truthful as well as my advice on how to wire it up so get over it.
I have not seen an MLA that is set to above 15.3v so I would assume you have a custom MLA. Which type of vehicle and MLA do you have?oh and by the way if you know what the Missing link module does, why do you say stuff about 14.4 volts when my charging voltage is now at 15.4 from the MLA, not 14.4?
I have not seen an MLA that is set to above 15.3v so I would assume you have a custom MLA. Which type of vehicle and MLA do you have?