Will this work???? Help Guys!

[Colin+M 10+ year member]

Ok, i want to go active for my next comp set.

I currently have the stock h/u and am using a Navone LOC for my preamp.

I will be installing a h/u with a built in crossover in the summer, but until then....

I have 2 JL audio 300/2 amps. These have x-over settings of 12/24db slope,

selectable frequency range(high pass x-over points) of 50-500hz for the midrange, and 500-5000hz for the tweeters.

Could i use one for the mids and set the the hp x-over at say 80hz(or whatever) and use one for the tweeters and set the hp x-over at say 1500hz.

I am not an expert, but it seems just crazy enough that it might work.

I am putting my old Alpine 7998 in my car this summer and it has a built in Low/Mid/High crossover, so if all else fails i can go that route then.

I just keep looking around on this forum and active seems the way to go, money and adjustablity wise.

Why did you guys decide to finally go active? Is it the "next step" in SQ system evolution?

Thanks

Colin

Click to read more...

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Could i use one for the mids and set the the hp x-over at say 80hz(or whatever) and use one for the tweeters and set the hp x-over at say 1500hz.

Yes, you could. Only you won't be lowpassing the mids aswell, which is normally necessary. It will still *work*, but the results may not be extremely pleasant.

You could look on partsexpress to see if they had any Fmods that would work for you though. It would still be far from ideal, but it would work slightly better.

Why did you guys decide to finally go active? Is it the "next step" in SQ system evolution?

Most people do it because they use DIY drivers and are mixing and matching new drivers constantly. Going active gives you the flexibility to do this quickly and easily compared to constantly having to rebuild passives. Plus active even in more of a static setup does offer many advantages like ability to adjust xover frequency, ability to time align each driver individually (something you can't do through a passive xover), etc. But fine results can still be had using passive xovers. So active isn't always flat-out better than passive.

 

[Colin+M 10+ year member]

so you cant just rely on the freq. response of the mid itself to cut out the higher frequencies?

Will the higher frequencies hurt the driver or just sound like crap?

Also, is 150 watts rms per mid and tweeter (300 watts rms per door) too much power?

Can you even find tweeters/6.5 mids that will take that kind of power?

thanks

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

so you cant just rely on the freq. response of the mid itself to cut out the higher frequencies?

The mid will have some natural top end rolloff due to inductance and such. But typically not enough to really validate attempting to run them without a lowpass crossover with good results. Which is why most everybody uses bandpass filters on their mids //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Will the higher frequencies hurt the driver or just sound like crap?

Just sound like pooh and make it hard to try to blend the mid and tweeter together.

Also, is 150 watts rms per mid and tweeter (300 watts rms per door) too much power?

No. You'll only use what power you need. The rest will just be there for headroom.

Can you even find tweeters/6.5 mids that will take that kind of power?

As I said above...you'll only use what power is needed out of the amplifier. Just because the amp is 150w doesn't mean you will actually use all 150w of that.

 

[Colin+M 10+ year member]

Thanks Squeak,

So do i need a seperate crossover to make things blend? What is this bandpass filter you speak of?

I am learning as we go, is it like a in-line filter ?

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Bandpass filter = highpass and lowpass on the same speaker

 

[Colin+M 10+ year member]

thanks