Will this harm too much...?

[dawgs007]

First off, I would like to say "Hi" to the community. I come here from SMD forums, which I was banned from for supporting someone who challenged the almighty SMD DD-1. A solid portion of their members acted like complete and utter know-it-alls.

Now, I am curious and would like to get this forum's opinions on this.

I have 2 12" RF P3 DVC 2ohm in a custom ported box. They are powered by a single RF Prime R1200-1D. The amp is running at 2ohms, obviously lol, so it's only giving each sub 400rms. The amp seems lackluster in "normal" operating settings (low gain, no boost, etc.).

So, I was wondering if my settings currently will harm my subwoofers too much. Currently, the settings are at 5/11 gain, 34hz SSF, 80 LPF, and 50% bass boost.

Thanks for your time guys!

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[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

You should have supported the DD1 if you set your amp up like that.

 

[Umbra]

Welcome.

I don't know why you'd bash the DD-1 if you don't know how to set your amp.

Without knowing your HU's preout voltage or the range on the gain's sensitivity we can't tell if that's a good setting. The best thing to use would be an oscilloscope or DD-1 with a test tone to see where it clips, but you can use a tone and a multimeter to get you to the right voltage. Hate to point you back to the SMD forums, but this thread does a great job going into detail, as well as providing download links for tones: Test Tones and Tuning Tutorial - All New Links, Again! - Tunez - All things music related - SMD Forum

34Hz SSF is high. Your sub can play down to 28Hz, unless you prefer to filter out the extreme lows, might want set that lower.

LPF is fine. It comes down to personal preference, but that's a standard setting.

Bass boost is useless. It only boosts one frequency (typically 40Hz) and is a quick way to send a clipped signal if you don't know what you're doing. You're better off setting it at zero. The gain adjusts all frequencies. If your gains are set right and it's not enough bass for you, upgrade the amp.

 

[dawgs007]

It's a little tough to look at the link when you're banned lol. And I was not bashing the DD-1. At all. I like the tool. The only argument was that if you don't have the funds to purchase DD-1, you had other means to tune the amp a little more than just guessing. They don't like that because it is apparently the ONLY tool you can use anymore.

Anyways, I understand they're high. I'm not oblivious to that fact! What would you suggest they be at? My deck has 4v preout for sub. I understand you cannot tell me exactly. Just an example will help. But, 34hz SSF works because it seems like anything lower really isn't audible nor felt in my car, so there's no point in making them go that low if they can't do it effectively.

 

[dawgs007]

Also, what exactly does bass boost do? I know it focuses on one freq., but when it's on it seems to help in many freq.?

 

[akillj 10+ year member]

That's kind of an illusion. Bass boost essentially turns up the 'gain' on one frequency. (Typically 40hz) Don't use 'bass boost' it's absolute sh*t and you're probably clipping.

What's the DD1? Like $150? I always love to advertise the DSO Nano every chance I get. Just because I feel it's such a useful tool and is

Nobody can tell you what gain settings to use. If there was a perfect gain for all amps, it would be internally controlled. Your amplifier is always putting out as much power as it can, for the input voltage the gain is set to.

LPF and HPF (Sub sonic, same thing) are a little different. LPF is personal preference, this won't hurt anything. HPF should be slightly lower than if not at port tuning. Frequency's below port tuning start to let the sub(s) 'unload.' Meaning they'll be moving as if they're in free air. This can cause over-excursion and possible woofer failure.

You can use a DMM to set gains if you really are on a tight budget. Just set the voltage to where it should be given the amps power rating at the load being presented. RF amps usually do more than rated, so setting it to rated power should be just fine. Turn off bass boost. If your gains are set correctly, turning on bass boost will guarantee you a clipped signal. Distorted / Clipped signals can sound 'louder' but it's really just beginning to form a square wave. This is bad news for your subs as they won't be able to cool themselves as efficiently.

 

[dawgs007]

So the DSO Nano also points out clipping/distortion levels? Sounds reasonable. Also, I feel that my SSF and LPF are good. You DO advise that I turn my boost completely off then?

 

[los33]

So the DSO Nano also points out clipping/distortion levels? Sounds reasonable. Also, I feel that my SSF and LPF are good. You DO advise that I turn my boost completely off then?

The DSO Nano is an actual oscilloscope which will show you an actual signal line to show clipping in live monitoring.

The DD-1 just shows clipping from any signal distortion it detects and you are forced to buy another version if your pushing over 3k which is stupid.

As for the bass boost it is not needed. Set your SSF to a reasonable freq as anything to low can cause your sub to go over xmax if to much power is sent.

Also do not forget to play with any sub level/sub volume controls on the headunit and also if you have it then SLA level can help.

At times loudness can help, but only if your preamp is lacking which if 2v then it should not.

 

[Umbra]

It's a little tough to look at the link when you're banned lol. And I was not bashing the DD-1. At all. I like the tool. The only argument was that if you don't have the funds to purchase DD-1, you had other means to tune the amp a little more than just guessing. They don't like that because it is apparently the ONLY tool you can use anymore.
Anyways, I understand they're high. I'm not oblivious to that fact! What would you suggest they be at? My deck has 4v preout for sub. I understand you cannot tell me exactly. Just an example will help. But, 34hz SSF works because it seems like anything lower really isn't audible nor felt in my car, so there's no point in making them go that low if they can't do it effectively.

Did you get IP banned? Can't you just log out and view it? You could try a free web proxy as well, but if you can't get to it basically you're looking for a 40Hz test tone with a -7dB amplitude. You can use -10 to be safer, or -5 if you want to push it a bit more. Find an alternative guide to setting gains with a multimeter. If you gain knob was labeled input sensitivity it'd be marked with voltages. You could then just set it to 4V and be done with it. That'd be a safe setting, but there would probably be headroom to get more out of it, that where these tools come into play. I don't think yours is labeled that way, so I don't know what would be a safe setting.

The DSO nano is great tool. I bought one off Newegg for something like $75. It's more work than the DD-1, but it can be used outside car audio.

If you're getting an O-scope you can set the gains perfectly. Bass boost can distort the signal quickly and you'll see that with the O-scope, but If you really like using it then use it, you'll just have to turn the gain down to compensate. Your bass boost boosts the signal around 45Hz. I don't think it's only 45Hz dead-on, but it's a narrow range around that point.

 

[dawgs007]

I'm using a Kenwood Excelon X397 deck. It has subwoofer level (mines at +15). Also, the decks LPF is set to through to sub. My amp SSF is set to 34hz.

 

[Umbra]

I'm using a Kenwood Excelon X397 deck. It has subwoofer level (mines at +15). Also, the decks LPF is set to through to sub. My amp SSF is set to 34hz.

If you play with the settings on the HU on the fly, make sure you max out the subwoofer level when you set your gains, as well as what you want to be your max volume level. If you had it less than max when you set it, then turned it up you'd be clipping. If you max it out then set the gains appropriately it won't be in clipping territory regardless of the HU settings.

 

[dawgs007]

That was probably the most helpful thing i've heard yet. I didn't think about putting it at "my" max volume while setting it up. Thanks man! Also, yes, i was ip'd. And shortly after u posted it, i used a proxy and looked at it. You recommend 40hz on "my" volume while tuning the amp?

 

[Umbra]

That was probably the most helpful thing i've heard yet. I didn't think about putting it at "my" max volume while setting it up. Thanks man! Also, yes, i was ip'd. And shortly after u posted it, i used a proxy and looked at it. You recommend 40hz on "my" volume while tuning the amp?

40Hz is the frequency of the sine wave you use as the test tone. It sounds like a loud, continuous noise if you listened to it, which reminds me to mention you should unplug your speakers when you play the sine wave for tuning.

The number 40 has nothing to do with your volume. The volume you designate as your max volume doesn't matter, but if you set your gains just short of clipping and go beyond this volume it might clip at times. In the past, people suggested not using the highest value on your HU because it can clip as well. 75% or less is recommended, especially if you're running your speakers off it. If your speakers are on their own amp and everything is using the preouts you could probably max the volume on the HU if you wanted.

 

[dawgs007]

So you recommend using the multimeter method at 40hz to tune it then?

 

[Umbra]

So you recommend using the multimeter method at 40hz to tune it then?

It's not as good as the O-Scope method, but it beats the hell out of guessing. Use a 45Hz tone since this is where your boost is.

GlassWolf has a good guide for this method. It goes through step by step and goes into further detail some of the topics I mentioned before:

GlassWolf's Pages