Will it hold together?

MzSpark

Junior Member
Does this car have enough juice?

I have a Massive Audio TORO X 124 1000 RMS - 2000 Max and plan to get this Black Ice Series 5,000w Class D Monoblock Amplifier. I also have another Amp PPI 900.4 Phantom 4 Channel and 2 pairs of Alpine speakers for my Hyundai Sonata 2006. Everything in the electrical system is stock. I want to do the Big 3 but I want to know if I also should be recommended for an extra battery and or HO alternator?

 
Does this car have enough juice?
I have a Massive Audio TORO X 124 1000 RMS - 2000 Max and plan to get this Black Ice Series 5,000w Class D Monoblock Amplifier. I also have another Amp PPI 900.4 Phantom 4 Channel and 2 pairs of Alpine speakers for my Hyundai Sonata 2006. Everything in the electrical system is stock. I want to do the Big 3 but I want to know if I also should be recommended for an extra battery and or HO alternator?
What is your alt rating? You definitely need to do the big 3 ASAP then monitor your voltages. Never look at the max rating on anything, it's just a marketing game. I have the same 900.4. Bada$$ little amp.

 
I'd suggest you lookin to what it takes to run a true 5k RMS daily. We're talking big alt + multiple batteries to have a sufficient electrical. Upwards of thousands of dollars in electrical upgrades alone.

It CAN be done with less but not safely if you don't know what you're doing.

 
I'd suggest you lookin to what it takes to run a true 5k RMS daily. We're talking big alt + multiple batteries to have a sufficient electrical. Upwards of thousands of dollars in electrical upgrades alone.
It CAN be done with less but not safely if you don't know what you're doing.
That BA5000.1 isn't going to do 5k. Roughly 2k@1ohm if that.

 
Do the 3 and you'll be good I'm sure. I have a 135 and I'm running ~2500rms with very little voltage drop
You must have some rise then. No way youre running 2500w rms full tilt off a 135 amp alternator + car functions with little to no drop, unless you have an extra battery or two.

 
You must have some rise then. No way youre running 2500w rms full tilt off a 135 amp alternator + car functions with little to no drop, unless you have an extra battery or two.
Of course there's some rise, can't be avoided. I'm running a stock alt and batt with the big 3. Lowest drops are to 13.4 at full tilt.

 
Okay so what D block amp is a certifiable 2500 watt. I'm trying to leave it at 4 ohms. So I want something with headroom and will be a clean power.

 
Okay so what D block amp is a certifiable 2500 watt. I'm trying to leave it at 4 ohms. So I want something with headroom and will be a clean power.
i think that may cost you more money.. Its way easier to make power at a lower ohmage

Im assuming its 2ohm dvc already wired to 4ohm? If so, youd be better off re-wiring to 1 ohm as MANY amps can certify 1k rms under $300

whoops, i was thinking 1 k for some reason.. 2.5k, the brutus line from hifonics certify them at 2400watts rms. seen dynos run around 2200ish at 13.4V

 
Running 2.5kw @ 4ohms will only be able to be done off some of the bigger amps such as the Sundown NS-1 and the DC 9k.

I'd highly suggest something that does 2k-3k watts @ 1 ohm.

Sundowns SVC line is pretty good. They have the SVC-2000D and the SVC-3000D. You could also try picking up one of the older SAZ-2500Ds second hand off here. I got my SAZ-2000D off here. It works like new and I love it.

edit: I love Sundown.

 
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