why the hell do i keep smoking amps??!!

[Chevyaudio 5,000+ posts]

what was your voltage drop? VFL's can handle .7 daily...

Yep...that was my guess as well. Sounds like your might of been starving the amp for voltage.

 

[Lil Poot 5,000+ posts]

i just pulled the subs out and checked the wiring. they're wired exactly like in that pictures, which should give a .7 ohm load, why are they saying 1.3 on my multimeter?

there was minimal voltage drop. on certain notes, it would go to around 12.8. during normal hard playing it was mid 13's (those numbers are both at idle). my electrical is pretty solid, dual yellow tops, the rear one a group 31, and a 240 amp alternator. i was also driving and accelerating when it happened, so it was probably seeing upper 13's. i did "wire my shit right" and i imagine you'd be touchy also if you just fried 1100+ dollars in amps in 4 weeks time, and were now again without bass.

by running it hard, i dont mean clipping, i just mean full output for 10-20 minutes at a time.

you seriously interested redline? i think i may just say **** it and sell all my gear.

 

[skadude016 5,000+ posts]

i just pulled the subs out and checked the wiring. they're wired exactly like in that pictures, which should give a .7 ohm load, why are they saying 1.3 on my multimeter?
there was minimal voltage drop. on certain notes, it would go to around 12.8. during normal hard playing it was mid 13's (those numbers are both at idle). my electrical is pretty solid, dual yellow tops, the rear one a group 31, and a 240 amp alternator. i was also driving and accelerating when it happened, so it was probably seeing upper 13's. i did "wire my shit right" and i imagine you'd be touchy also if you just fried 1100+ dollars in amps in 4 weeks time, and were now again without bass.

by running it hard, i dont mean clipping, i just mean full output for 10-20 minutes at a time.

you seriously interested redline? i think i may just say **** it and sell all my gear.

how much for the blown 150.1?

sorry to hear about all that man

 

[RedlineAccord 10+ year member]

I'd hate to take that stuff away from ya. You probably just need to cool down a bit and figure out the problem before saving up and setting up your system again. But if you really do feel like you want to get rid of em, I'd be interested. I wanna get louder than this Rockford 15" T1. I just installed my friends 2 12" SSD's and they were amazing, and kind of gave me a kick in the direction of Fi. lol I don't think my new Hifonics BXi1206D would be TOO bad in powering one of them, would it? It runs at 1 ohm easily.

 

[Mitch86 5,000+ posts]

I wasnt trying to be a dick. (or maybe I was?) But, you are obviously doing SOMETHING wrong. Either that or you have the worst luck ever. I know it sucks to fry equipment, been there done that. But you also have to take the blame when it's obvious that you have done something to cause this. I hope you figure out the problem. And sorry if I offended you.

 

[XTRProBoy 10+ year member]

If they're wired like they are in the picture that looks like the coils of each driver are wired in series and then the drivers are paralleled together.

If the drivers are dual 1 ohm coils, wouldn't you get a 1-ohm total impedance like that? I.e. One driver with it's coils wired in series would give you 2-ohms. Wire two of them like that and then in parallel with each other and you get to 1-ohm.

I'm not sure how you're arriving at this .7-ohm figure but I don't see anyway you'd get that if both drivers are dual 1-ohm coil subs. The only total impedances you can get with two 1-ohm DVC subs (wired together for equal power split) are: 4, 1 (two ways of getting to this impedance), and .25 ohms. How did you calculate .7 ohms?

Anyway also remember that your meter is measuring DC resistance when you put it on the speaker wires, not impedance (which is an AC value and varies on speakers throughout the frequency range). So 1.3 Ohms on the meter sounds about right for wiring the subs for an impedance of 1 ohm.

 

[skadude016 5,000+ posts]

If they're wired like they are in the picture that looks like the coils of each driver are wired in series and then the drivers are paralleled together.
If the drivers are dual 1 ohm coils, wouldn't you get a 1-ohm total impedance like that? I.e. One driver with it's coils wired in series would give you 2-ohms. Wire two of them like that and then in parallel with each other and you get to 1-ohm.

I'm not sure how you're arriving at this .7-ohm figure but I don't see anyway you'd get that if both drivers are dual 1-ohm coil subs. The only total impedances you can get with two 1-ohm DVC subs (wired together for equal power split) are: 4, 1 (two ways of getting to this impedance), and .25 ohms. How did you calculate .7 ohms?

Anyway also remember that your meter is measuring DC resistance when you put it on the speaker wires, not impedance (which is an AC value and varies on speakers throughout the frequency range). So 1.3 Ohms on the meter sounds about right for wiring the subs for an impedance of 1 ohm.

those coils are each .7ohm nominal

 

[Lil Poot 5,000+ posts]

they just call them d1's and d2's. dont know why. they're actually .7 and 1.4 ohm coils.

 

[Chevyaudio 5,000+ posts]

What does your electrical system consist of?

reason the Coils are reading high, is because DCR is obtained on a cold coil that is at rest. You played your subs alittle this morning, so the reading is going to be alittle high...

 

[Exploder 97 10+ year member]

sorry bro, this sports a *****. just sell what you got and get a 500 watt sub system and move on to something else...

 

[skadude016 5,000+ posts]

there was minimal voltage drop. on certain notes, it would go to around 12.8. during normal hard playing it was mid 13's (those numbers are both at idle). my electrical is pretty solid, dual yellow tops, the rear one a group 31, and a 240 amp alternator. i was also driving and accelerating when it happened, so it was probably seeing upper 13's.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Lil Poot 5,000+ posts]

my electrical is in my sig. i thought it would be plenty stout, 1/0 gauge big 3, 1/0 runs connecting both power and grounds, group 31 yellow top in the rear, 34 in the front.

 

[vladd 10+ year member]

sounds to me like he got dual 2ohm subs not dual 1, resulting in his final 1.3(1.4) instead of .7

 

[Chevyaudio 5,000+ posts]

they just call them d1's and d2's. dont know why. they're actually .7 and 1.4 ohm coils.

because they are dual 1s and dual 2s...if they were true dual .7s and dual 1.4s, Thats how they would be listed. DCR is different...

quoted from nG in another thread...Im to lazy to write it out..

You don't understand.
Nominal resistance, the minimum resistance your amp will see most of the time. Expecially after rise, it's almost higher than this all the time.

DCR (direct current resistance). This is the actual resistance at rest, when the coil is cold. Usually hover around this when measure with a DMM at rest.

Nominal impedance is all you should ever worry about.

You have a Dual2ohm subwoofer, wire it in parallel. Perfect match for the Hifonics amplifier, presenting it with a 1ohm load.

nG

 

[XTRProBoy 10+ year member]

those coils are each .7ohm nominal

Ahh okay. Above he said "they're dual 1s" so I thought that meant dual 1-ohm coils.

Anyway again 1.3 equivalent DC resistance is not that far off. Provided both drivers the same (read the resistance across each driver individually instead of together or even better across each individual coil) then it should be okay. For example, speakers with nominal impedances of 8 ohms can read less than 6 ohms DC resistance on a meter but that doesn't mean they are 6-ohm speakers, they're still 8-ohms nominal across the frequency range they were intended for.

So read the drivers individually (or the all coils if you can)--they should all give pretty similar readings.