you have a sub that is 1000w rms and a amp that is 1000rms. Bullshit. they way companies test there products are at totally different frequencies that what you listen to normally. This gives them the ability to say the push 1000w rms. this rms rating is ran at a much higher hertz probally around 80 to 100hz. most subs enthusiasts like the clean sound of a 40hz tune. they way u can tell how good the sub is is to look at the magnet, flex range, and depth of the sub. the bigger the more powerful. (most of the time anyways) when u look to buy a rms amp look at the fuses on the side of the amp. this is the most important thing that many people don't know because they are stupid. AND WALMART LIES!!! This is the real way how to tell what rms you amp is. look at the fuses on the side of the amp. add them up and times them by how many volts you are running. So lets say that you have no secondary battery, you are probally running around 12volts average. if the fuses on the side of the amp add up to 80 (keep in mind there may only be one fuse) take 80X12=960 THIS IS YOU TURE MAX POWER BUT NOT YOUR AVERAGE RMS. to get your rms just take 75% of the 960, this gives you your amp efficiency. so again 75% of 960watts = 720 AND THIS IS YOU RMS.
back to the actual question its as simple as this. dont ever buy walmart quaility junk. always have an amp that will overpower your sub. this allows less strain on you car electrical system. learn how to wire you subs to certain ohms, so you can get the most out of you sub and amp. if you do this CLIPPING will never be an issue. AND I HOPE SOME RETARDS AT BEST BUY DIDNT TELL YOU TO DO THAT. TAKE YOU SHIT TO A REAL CAR AUDIO SHOP AND STOP LISTENING TO WHOEVER TOLD YOU THAT.
