Why does everyone hate capacitors?

only time I would upgrade battery first is something like my honda. Still need a bigger alt and upgrade magic 3. People can probably answer this better than me but needing a cap at all is dependent on where the second battery is placed in relationship to the amp how fast the batterys transision responce is and if there is a over needed capacitors on the input side of the amp. I am not positive but is this the reason why I liked the sound of my us amps 1000x more than I like the sound of most of the Class D amps I ran because the Class A/B us amp would take more curent but had a lot of caps on the input side where most of the 1000 watt class D though most were cookie cutter amps as I know them as didn't. What I knowticed in sound was that the Us amp seemed to control the sub much better kick drums didn't lag they were alive very much more responcive and punchy rather than just blending the beat together. Was running a Re XXX 15 from the amp. If any one can answer if that is a good explination of the difrence would be or if it was just quality in amps. both same amount of power when messures and both active x over before the amps. Magic 3 upgraded battery 140 amp alt and 0 guage to the back.

 
i would have to guess it would be the quality of the amps and the class they are running, the us amps class a/b's are pretty clean for the power they put out, cleaner than a class d, if everything else is the same in your system then i would guess its the amp's class, but i could be wrong, im no expert im just guessing

 
Well yes, A/B or A or B power is cleaner than class D, but is far more "inefficient" than a class D where monoblock power is all you need and don't really care about harmonics and timbre.

 
yeah understand that was just trying to understand if it was the class d to class a/b or if it had anything to do with the capacitors on the input sides. don't let this get off track guys thanks I didn't mean to get this thred going in the wrong direction. I just thought it could do with the topic

 
yea thats the reason I may go with class D amps in my van for next season, right now I have 8 us amps 2000x's modded to put out about 3500 watts each, but man they **** some serious power!!! Im not sure of a good solid company to go with though, theres a lot of companies out there Ive heard of and seen people use them for DD applications, but not SPL, so Im going to compete this season and see what works for other competitors and go from there . . . .

 
You will see more real benefit from doing the Big 3 and you neither want nor need a cap in your situation.

In most cases with a daily driver system, any current shortfall is a transient one. Without some kind of buffer on the alt, adding a bigger alt by itself isn't going to stop transient current shortfalls or the quick voltage dips that go along with them. The battery is that buffer. The power output of the alt is dependant on RPM and demand. The output of the battery is totally dependant on demand. The alt has a short delay in response to an increase in demand the battery doesn't. Also depending on the amp it is quite possible to pull a current transient that the alt has no chance of supporting. Without a good battery to pick up the slack you're in the same boat as when you didn't have an upgraded alt.

 
You will see more real benefit from doing the Big 3 and you neither want nor need a cap in your situation.
In most cases with a daily driver system, any current shortfall is a transient one. Without some kind of buffer on the alt, adding a bigger alt by itself isn't going to stop transient current shortfalls or the quick voltage dips that go along with them. The battery is that buffer. The power output of the alt is dependant on RPM and demand. The output of the battery is totally dependant on demand. The alt has a short delay in response to an increase in demand the battery doesn't. Also depending on the amp it is quite possible to pull a current transient that the alt has no chance of supporting. Without a good battery to pick up the slack you're in the same boat as when you didn't have an upgraded alt.
werd.

I went with a Deep Cycle first because I was originally planning to do Street B but found Bassrace more fun. I dont regret getting that Yellow top though as it has no problem starting my truck, even when drained to 11 volts. I also have a 95a alt already and with heavy draw I never drop below 12v.

 
i don't seem to have any of these problems with my cheap walmart battery

interesting
You can drain your walmart battery to 11v and below and start your vehicle with out issue?

Wait...you drive a low compression, low displacement, old econobox...it's like starting a lawnmower. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
You can drain your walmart battery to 11v and below and start your vehicle with out issue?
Wait...you drive a low compression, low displacement, old econobox...it's like starting a lawnmower. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
my alt is big enough to run my system without draining the battery. it's actually a 3.8 v-6 and it has been starting fine all winter. actually the weather man just said the high this weekend is gonna be -6. coldest weather this decade. we'll see how she holds up //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
btw i get a constant 14.5 volts at an idle, at my amp, playing a 50 hz. tone so idk where you got the idea my electrical system drops to 11 volts //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
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