Which do you think is my better install option?

[jchargu3 10+ year member]

Which would I be better with (i think i asked before but i lost it)

INFO:

Sub amp is an Elemental Nine.1

Mid amp WILL BE an Elemental Nine.2 but im using my old sony until I get the Nine.2

Vehicle:

88 Chevy s10

Optima Yellow Top - dual post

OPTION A:

Nine.1 on its own 0 gauge line from battery

Nine.2 on its own 2 or 4 gauge line from battery

 

0 Gauge Side:

Battery Terminal to SINGLE fuse block with 150/180 amp fuse

From fuse block at battery direct to 9.1 amp using one single 0 to 4 gauge adapter direct into the amps Power

 

2 or 4 gauge side:

Battery Terminal to SINGLE fuse block with 150 amp fuse, from fuse block direct and input to nine.2 amp.

 

PROS

- Each amp has its own fuse, and its own lines complete

- If one fuse blows I still have the other range

- would only have to buy one 0 to 4 adapter

 

CONS

Very tight on the battery to add the 0 gauge to everything.

Still having two stereo power lines ran SOMEWHERE in the firewall

 

 

 

Option B:

Short 0 gauge provides power to a dual fuse box that has 2 4 gauge outputs

 

0 gauge

180 amp fuse From fuseblock to 4-0 adapter to the 9.1 amp, another 4-0 adapter into the amp

 

4 gauge

150 amp fuse from fuseblock to 9.2 amp.

 

PROS

- I free one port on the battery by removing the current 4 gauge to the smaller amp.

- One Fuse Block so little hassles to change fuses, or pull fuses when working on the system.

- Each amp has its own fuse incase one blows the other one wont

 

 

CONS

I would have to buy TWO 0-4 gauge adapters

Finding a place to put a big honkin dual fuse block.

Still having two stereo power lines ran SOMEWHERE in the firewall

Option C:

One wire into the truck, then split to two.

 

0 Gauge from battery to single fuse block, with a 300 amp fuse (i think?)

0 gauge from fuse block to inside distribution block 0 in 4ga out.

0 gauge from distribution block to ED nine.1 using the 0 to 4 ga adapters

4 gauge from distribution block to ED nine.2

 

PROS

-One wire into the truck, removes a wire from the battery terminal eliminating the 4 gauge thats already there.

-Less underhood wires.

 

CONS

-One fuse goes out, it all goes out.

-Having a dist block hidden in the interior

-having to use TWO 0 to 4 gauge adapters

Parts Breakdown on each option, expense wise

Option A:

Battery Terminal with a 0 gauge port, and a 4 gauge port

180 amp fuse

0 in 0 out fuse holder

0 to 4 ga adapter

$

Option B:

Battery Terminal with 0 gauge port and a 4 gauge port

1 - 0 Ga In, 2 - 4 ga out dual fuse block

180 amp fuse

150 amp fuse

2 - 0 to 4 ga adapter

$$

Option C:

Battery Terminal with 0 gauge port and a 4 gauge port.

1 - 0 ga in and out fuse block

300 amp fuse

Distribution block 0 in, dual 4 out.

2 - 0 to 4 ga adapters

$$$

Click to read more...

 

[EnvEe 02 10+ year member]

Too lazy to read it all, id say go with one run or 1/0 to the trunk to a fused distro and split it to either 2, or 4g.

 

[the727kid 10+ year member]

Too much to read....

How bout 1 run of 0/1 to a battery in the back and run 0/1 to each amp.

 

[mavster 10+ year member]

too colorful....

 

[filtor1 10+ year member]

Option C

 

[jchargu3 10+ year member]

Some things to think about

I will eventually be moving my batteries to the bed, in this case the the 0 gauge that I ran for the amp will be used for the power to the front of the truck, I'll simple pull it out through the firewall and re run it into the frame, a 5 minute job.

I will also be adding a 200amp alternator in the near future, I run 2 air zenith compressors, along with all this radio stuff, and i will be running an electric linear actuator for a tilt bed setup....

the 4 gauge for the mids are already ran, its what my mids are currently running on and what the lows WERE running on before now.

 

[jchargu3 10+ year member]

hmm some decent points you all have.