which amp is best choice for 2 psi

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I must have a magical electrical system. I've never dropped below 13.0 with the car on and 12.6 with the car off and a 95 amp alternator. Can you blow an amp if you don't give it enough power? It seems like it would just go into protect.

Probably have really high box rise

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Probably have really high box rise

Are you saying that I prolly have high box rise?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

You can check your box rise

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

You can check your box rise

I really can't. Believe it or not, I'm not that smart.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Are you saying that I prolly have high box rise?

yes it would explain your voltages not dropping low meaning you arent really outputting that much real world power on music which is absolutely normal. Real world music power numbers is usually around 2 to 8 ohms when wired to 1 ohm. its not that the amp is bad or anything this is just natural physics of how current works and how musical recording works. Which is the reason why you have people that say they can throw double or triple RMS wattage to their sub. Its not that their sub is strong as ****, its more like their sub is just getting proper wattage after factoring rise and music dynamics in the recording.

 

[ekah]

What car is it in?

2006 mazda 6 hatchback
what about yourself?

 

[ekah]

Get to the HO Alternator. The 8k can be turned down and just turn it up when you decide to upgrade and make future changes. Also get an AGM battery. I heard lithium is the new wave but I don't know anything about that technology except it's what we use in most rechargable devices cellphone, tablets, game controllers etc. From what I understand Taramps are sensitive at the input and they don't like being underpowered (no amp does but, these especially). Aside from that I hear rave reviews on Taramps. Power it right and it will serve you well!!!! Bass

i have an AgM in the front
i just need to add one to the rear
but i heard its also bad to use a 2nd battery in the rear with stock alternator
like it drains it more
taxes the alt more with 2 batteries
true or false?
anyone can recommend a type of battery in the rear?
and some place that does ho alternators for a 2006 mazda 6 v6
i looked online and locally and no luck

 

[ekah]

you can run a taramps

just get the md8k you can run it just fine on stock electrical. Would you get the full power out of it? no. Can you get anywhere close to full tilt? no. Will you damage anything? Not if you are smart. Install a volt meter lower your sub level all the way down, bring up the gain a bit, play your hardest hitting bass music, now with the car running and music playing, raise the sub level until your voltages drop to low 12s, viola thats the most safe power you are gonna get out of your amp with your current electrical. Upgrade the alt later when you want actual power out of the amp but in the mean time you'll have clean signal and power and future proofed headroom.

my stock electrical would be a 110 amp alt
running at this moment a cab1600 and a ppi 900.4
to 2 psi platform 2's
i just received the 2nd sub and right when i hooked it up
my rca sent backfeed and then i tried taking out the rca the middle prong got stuck inside the amp
thats what happens when you buy cheap rca
got worried but then after i took the rca out
i then ran the amp with another pair of rca and subs and worked fine
so that was me trying to upgrade to a bigger amp for future proofing
but its all good now
but in the end ill probably buy the taramps this weekend maybe
so you recommend me just turn gains slightly and turn music with heavier bass to protect myself right?
so would i hear a difference with now 2 subs and plus the taramps md8k? even with stock electrical?

 

[ekah]

I must have a magical electrical system. I've never dropped below 13.0 with the car on and 12.6 with the car off and a 95 amp alternator. Can you blow an amp if you don't give it enough power? It seems like it would just go into protect.

whats your electrical look like?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

my stock electrical would be a 110 amp alt
running at this moment a cab1600 and a ppi 900.4
to 2 psi platform 2's
i just received the 2nd sub and right when i hooked it up
my rca sent backfeed and then i tried taking out the rca the middle prong got stuck inside the amp
thats what happens when you buy cheap rca
got worried but then after i took the rca out
i then ran the amp with another pair of rca and subs and worked fine
so that was me trying to upgrade to a bigger amp for future proofing
but its all good now
but in the end ill probably buy the taramps this weekend maybe
so you recommend me just turn gains slightly and turn music with heavier bass to protect myself right?
so would i hear a difference with now 2 subs and plus the taramps md8k? even with stock electrical?

yes you'll notice a difference because your amp wont be anywhere near 100% like it is now and the taramps is much more efficient. No i'm not telling you to do what you just mentioned. I told you SPECIFIC instructions. DO NOT MISS A STEP. Do not rely on the gain knob, rely on the sub level adjustments and head unit volume and the voltmeter thats connected right to your amp power and ground terminals. Adjust purely on voltage levels, nothing else.

 

[darkkon 10+ year member]

its the opposite, they pop if your electrical is too strong. My sources, all the bass shows. people running 15 volts, going full tilt, just a little soft clip, bam amp pops. While people with weaker electricals dropping down to 10 volts and the amp still lives for years. makes sense if you actually understand the full bridge topology. The internals are operating at close to 100% stress levels, when you give too much current and force them to make more power, its past 100 they pop. Its not like half bridge koreans where it leaves a lot left on the table which allows them to make more power by wiring to do the absolute dirt and upping the voltage to stupid levels.

Even all the distributors say the amps will pop if you force them to make too much power. Hence why the dont recommend wiring the md series below one ohm. The bass series have internals that have a lot left on the table and is beefier which allows it to benefit from the usual korean treatment.

just because a system has 300 amp alt and 10 battiers doesnt mean the amps going to use all that power, it only draws what it wants.

so i dont understand how going overkill on batteries can kill an amp, unless i understood what you typed wrong or read it too fast either way im not rereading it lol but

it should be the opposite, but taramps are rated 9v to 16v so really as long as your not seeing under 10 volts your solid

secondly, im legit getting the exact same amp as you bro md 8k.1 soooo

i have two 84 amp hour batteries plus the starting under the hood, and a 175 stock alternator.
i plan to run 5k full tilt for about a hour half to hour before my batteries will need recharged. or i risk running dangerously low voltage to the amp

5k watts will draw 450 amps, 0 gauge of 16 foot will not be able to transfer 450 amps so you will need a battery bank in your trunk, or two runs of 0 gauge from your front battery if you plan to be cheap, but i would buy two used batteries for 250 and call it a day. so you dont have to worry about your 600 dollar amp exploding.

8k watts will draw close to 850-900 amps, at this point you better have a high output alternator and 4 batteries of at least 100 amp hours each and thats only to play at full tilt for about 1-2 or so hours

 

[yamomluvsme]

Bro I'd you get the 8k atleast upgrade the alt. Pulling 400+ amps will destroy your stock electrical system

 

[yamomluvsme]

its the opposite, they pop if your electrical is too strong. My sources, all the bass shows. people running 15 volts, going full tilt, just a little soft clip, bam amp pops. While people with weaker electricals dropping down to 10 volts and the amp still lives for years. makes sense if you actually understand the full bridge topology. The internals are operating at close to 100% stress levels, when you give too much current and force them to make more power, its past 100 they pop. Its not like half bridge koreans where it leaves a lot left on the table which allows them to make more power by wiring to do the absolute dirt and upping the voltage to stupid levels.

Even all the distributors say the amps will pop if you force them to make too much power. Hence why the dont recommend wiring the md series below one ohm. The bass series have internals that have a lot left on the table and is beefier which allows it to benefit from the usual korean treatment.

I've seen a few people run um at .5 the will protect when it gets under 1ohm but no smoke. Running them at 15 5 too

 

[ekah]

well just bought it last night on amazon for 449$
now its back to 480$
guess i got it on a random flash sale.
i wont turn my gains up but just leave it at minimum and play with the volumes to see if it clips on amp
if i get more output just by that then ill be happy
if i can turn gains up while the volume is at a high 37 out of 42 with gains at minimum ill be happy with that also
i leave my gains at about 1/4 of the way now with the cab1600 and to me it gets loud but to you guys probably not.
as long as i hear/feel a difference with a 2nd sub and a 8k compared to 1 sub and a 1600 than ill be happy
and as long as i dont fry the amp either lol but im sure as long as the gains arent like passed quarter i think i should be fine
i know when my subs will clip as the smell will get nasty as i blown my past DD that way i now know what a burnt coil smells like.
later down the line is a batt in the back which i think you can probably turn the gains up just a little more after this
and then HO alternator then turn the gains a little more maybe after each upgrade?
as long as i follow that clipping light im assuming.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

just because a system has 300 amp alt and 10 battiers doesnt mean the amps going to use all that power, it only draws what it wants.

so i dont understand how going overkill on batteries can kill an amp, unless i understood what you typed wrong or read it too fast either way im not rereading it lol but

it should be the opposite, but taramps are rated 9v to 16v so really as long as your not seeing under 10 volts your solid

secondly, im legit getting the exact same amp as you bro md 8k.1 soooo

i have two 84 amp hour batteries plus the starting under the hood, and a 175 stock alternator.
i plan to run 5k full tilt for about a hour half to hour before my batteries will need recharged. or i risk running dangerously low voltage to the amp

5k watts will draw 450 amps, 0 gauge of 16 foot will not be able to transfer 450 amps so you will need a battery bank in your trunk, or two runs of 0 gauge from your front battery if you plan to be cheap, but i would buy two used batteries for 250 and call it a day. so you dont have to worry about your 600 dollar amp exploding.

8k watts will draw close to 850-900 amps, at this point you better have a high output alternator and 4 batteries of at least 100 amp hours each and thats only to play at full tilt for about 1-2 or so hours

its not the batteries its mainly the alts charging 15.+ aka 15.4 or so. Rail caps in full bridged amps are basically set to 90+ % usage capacity for normal 12.6-14.4 volt operations. A constant 15.4 volts after drop with slight clipping causes the rail caps, power supply and the bare minimum number of fets to be well over capacity and build up waaay too much heat way too fast. If you watch bare vids taramps repair videos he'll tell you the full aspects of it as well, very informative and he tells you straight up the amps arent meant to do actual rated for long periods of times due to lack of proper amounts of fets which is pretty much in line with what all the distributors say. The amount of batteries does not matter. The alternator charging voltage does. Everyone that I know charges 15 volts plus has popped a taramps when they soft clipped. Everyone else is soft clipping all day long without ever popping it.

I'm not bashing on taramps i'm literally just giving it to you straight. I love it i use it but you need to know the operating conditions if you want to have a healthy functioning amp. You cannot treat it like a korean unless you have the bass series which have much beefier internals but they arent operating anywhere at full capacity at the start like the MD and HD series are.