which amp is best choice for 2 psi

[ekah]

need to know which amps are best bang for the buck
and reasons why since the claims of rms seems obvious its just the amps ill link are also way different in prices.

Deaf Bonce Apocalypse AAB-3800.1D

GP is your source for top of the line voltage stability for your audio system. Along with many other OVERKILL items. GP, when every tenth counts.

gpcaraudio.com

Amazon.com: Taramp's MD 8000.1 1 Ohm 8000 Watts Class D Full Range Mono Amplifier

Buy Taramp's MD 8000.1 1 Ohm 8000 Watts Class D Full Range Mono Amplifier: Mono Amplifiers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

i hear about this taramps a lot
and the price difference is not so much but the rms seems so much different
can someone explain why the price difference?
would be pushing 2 psi platforms 2 with stock 110 alt and an upgraded batt in front and later a rear batt

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[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

I would do the MD8k personally. I've had nothing but good experiences with Taramps amps over many years. I don't have any experience with Deaf Bonce amps myself.

But I wouldn't run either one of them on stock electrical.

 

[ekah]

I would do the MD8k personally. I've had nothing but good experiences with Taramps amps over many years. I don't have any experience with Deaf Bonce amps myself.

But I wouldn't run either one of them on stock electrical.

when it states 8000rms @ 12.6 vdc
does that mean if my car is at that voltage when running i would see a complete 8000rms compared to when amps state it att 14.4 volts?
that was always a question i had.
if ran at stock electrical like i mentioned
how much power do you think i would see to each sub
compared to me using my cab1600 that claims 1608 @14.2
does that mean im not even seeing a full 1600 since most likely my car would be around 13.6 volts while running?

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

when it states 8000rms @ 12.6 vdc
does that mean if my car is at that voltage when running i would see a complete 8000rms compared to when amps state it att 14.4 volts?
that was always a question i had.
if ran at stock electrical like i mentioned
how much power do you think i would see to each sub
compared to me using my cab1600 that claims 1608 @14.2
does that mean im not even seeing a full 1600 since most likely my car would be around 13.6 volts while running?

Full rms at rated. Rated at 12.6 means full rms at 12.6v. Then, you would need to take into account box rise. That's why the Taramps MD series is good to go. I run a MD3000.1 and my volt meter never drops below 13.4 while driving and 12.6 with the car off. I'm usually over 14.0 while driving.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

need to know which amps are best bang for the buck
and reasons why since the claims of rms seems obvious its just the amps ill link are also way different in prices.

Deaf Bonce Apocalypse AAB-3800.1D

GP is your source for top of the line voltage stability for your audio system. Along with many other OVERKILL items. GP, when every tenth counts.

gpcaraudio.com

Amazon.com: Taramp's MD 8000.1 1 Ohm 8000 Watts Class D Full Range Mono Amplifier

Buy Taramp's MD 8000.1 1 Ohm 8000 Watts Class D Full Range Mono Amplifier: Mono Amplifiers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

i hear about this taramps a lot
and the price difference is not so much but the rms seems so much different
can someone explain why the price difference?
would be pushing 2 psi platforms 2 with stock 110 alt and an upgraded batt in front and later a rear batt

Are you running 12's? If so, I wouldn't suggest more than the MD5000 with that electrical. You should at least do the big three before your install. Good 1/0 wire everywhere or 2/0 welding cable.

 

[ekah]

Are you running 12's? If so, I wouldn't suggest more than the MD5000 with that electrical. You should at least do the big three before your install. Good 1/0 wire everywhere or 2/0 welding cable.

I wanted the 8k just to future proof
It's only like 100 more for 3000rms so thought I could just run8k and be okay for later like I wouldnt need to buy and upgrade to a whole new amp. They're the 12s. So if I were to get with stock electrical at 12.6 volts I wouldnt get 8krms?
Can someone explain box rise in a quick explanation?
I'll probably get a 2nd battery
Is there any type or something to look into when buying a 2nd battery?

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I wanted the 8k just to future proof
It's only like 100 more for 3000rms so thought I could just run8k and be okay for later like I wouldnt need to buy and upgrade to a whole new amp. They're the 12s. So if I were to get with stock electrical at 12.6 volts I wouldnt get 8krms?
Can someone explain box rise in a quick explanation?
I'll probably get a 2nd battery
Is there any type or something to look into when buying a 2nd battery?

Run two AGM's and do the big three and you should be good. Maybe, a little light dimming.

 

[yamomluvsme]

On a stock alt no ******* way you can support 8k. You need atleast a 320 and two big lead acid batteries. Innwhichbat that point lithium is much more viable.
I'd suggest a MD 5000 and a high output alt.

 

[ekah]

On a stock alt no ******* way you can support 8k. You need atleast a 320 and two big lead acid batteries. Innwhichbat that point lithium is much more viable.
I'd suggest a MD 5000 and a high output alt.

But if I do go with the 8k would I come close to doing at least 5k with it and thethen upgrade later to get the full 8k? Would save money down the road right if I just get the bigger one for 100 dollars more?
Or just get the 5k and almost run close to 4k more like with just stock electrical?
Ano other thing I noticed is the taramps dont have 2 terminals for 2 subs
Would I just connect it through direct leads? How big of an input are ththe speaker terminals and power and ground?

 

[ekah]

Run two AGM's and do the big three and you should be good. Maybe, a little light dimming.

Light dimming would be going full ham right? Of course if I were to run it and not go full tilt I should be fine?

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Light dimming would be going full ham right? Of course if I were to run it and not go full tilt I should be fine?

What car is it in?

 

[IndySlim]

Get to the HO Alternator. The 8k can be turned down and just turn it up when you decide to upgrade and make future changes. Also get an AGM battery. I heard lithium is the new wave but I don't know anything about that technology except it's what we use in most rechargable devices cellphone, tablets, game controllers etc. From what I understand Taramps are sensitive at the input and they don't like being underpowered (no amp does but, these especially). Aside from that I hear rave reviews on Taramps. Power it right and it will serve you well!!!! Bass

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

you can run a taramps

Light dimming would be going full ham right? Of course if I were to run it and not go full tilt I should be fine?

just get the md8k you can run it just fine on stock electrical. Would you get the full power out of it? no. Can you get anywhere close to full tilt? no. Will you damage anything? Not if you are smart. Install a volt meter lower your sub level all the way down, bring up the gain a bit, play your hardest hitting bass music, now with the car running and music playing, raise the sub level until your voltages drop to low 12s, viola thats the most safe power you are gonna get out of your amp with your current electrical. Upgrade the alt later when you want actual power out of the amp but in the mean time you'll have clean signal and power and future proofed headroom.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Get to the HO Alternator. The 8k can be turned down and just turn it up when you decide to upgrade and make future changes. Also get an AGM battery. I heard lithium is the new wave but I don't know anything about that technology except it's what we use in most rechargable devices cellphone, tablets, game controllers etc. From what I understand Taramps are sensitive at the input and they don't like being underpowered (no amp does but, these especially). Aside from that I hear rave reviews on Taramps. Power it right and it will serve you well!!!! Bass

its the opposite, they pop if your electrical is too strong. My sources, all the bass shows. people running 15 volts, going full tilt, just a little soft clip, bam amp pops. While people with weaker electricals dropping down to 10 volts and the amp still lives for years. makes sense if you actually understand the full bridge topology. The internals are operating at close to 100% stress levels, when you give too much current and force them to make more power, its past 100 they pop. Its not like half bridge koreans where it leaves a lot left on the table which allows them to make more power by wiring to do the absolute dirt and upping the voltage to stupid levels.

Even all the distributors say the amps will pop if you force them to make too much power. Hence why the dont recommend wiring the md series below one ohm. The bass series have internals that have a lot left on the table and is beefier which allows it to benefit from the usual korean treatment.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

its the opposite, they pop if your electrical is too strong. My sources, all the bass shows. people running 15 volts, going full tilt, just a little soft clip, bam amp pops. While people with weaker electricals dropping down to 10 volts and the amp still lives for years. makes sense if you actually understand the full bridge topology. The internals are operating at close to 100% stress levels, when you give too much current and force them to make more power, its past 100 they pop. Its not like half bridge koreans where it leaves a lot left on the table which allows them to make more power by wiring to do the absolute dirt and upping the voltage to stupid levels.

Even all the distributors say the amps will pop if you force them to make too much power. Hence why the dont recommend wiring the md series below one ohm. The bass series have internals that have a lot left on the table and is beefier which allows it to benefit from the usual korean treatment.

I must have a magical electrical system. I've never dropped below 13.0 with the car on and 12.6 with the car off and a 95 amp alternator. Can you blow an amp if you don't give it enough power? It seems like it would just go into protect.