Where would one buy resin?

[miker 5,000+ posts]

I might be fiberglassing soon... So yeah. Any local stores you can get it at?

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[snova031]

I believe Home Depot and Lowe's carry it, and I believe most marine supply stores will have it as well.

 

[miker 5,000+ posts]

I believe Home Depot and Lowe's carry it, and I believe most marine supply stores will have it as well.

Sweet... I could just imagine shipping costs on that stuff... lol.

 

[bjfish11 5,000+ posts]

I always used to order it from Uscomposites.com. Much cheaper that way...

 

[dragnix 5,000+ posts]

wally world?

 

[dsiddens]

This may be "too much information", but here goes:

Resin can be grouped into three chemical families: polyester, vinylester & epoxy.

Polyester is the least expensive and easy to work with. Not as water resistant as the other two, nor as strong. However, for automotive audio work I think it is the best choice.

Epoxy is the most expensive and sensitive to work with and the strongest. It has the least moisture absorption making it desirable for underwater applications.

Vinylester comes in between polyester and epoxy in terms of cost, ease of use, strength and moisture absorption.

I'd recommend you take a look at http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/product_catalog.html

There are many other businesses that sell polyester and glass.

You will also need:

a basic fiberglassing book from the library

box (s) of nitrile gloves http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=nitrile&Submit=Go

acetone, gallon can (big box stores)

white vinegar (for cleaning your skin of resin)

plastic sheeting of the higher mil thickness (6 mil)

thermometer

possibly some beeswax or paste floor wax (no silicone) or mold release agent

mixing containers ( I like well washed small size cottage cheese containers) or you can spend for clean plastic containers

a large and small measuring device (from your resin provider)

fumed silica, or cellulose based thickener

1" or 2" chip brushes (harbor freight)

tongue depressors or special plastic stir sticks

a shallow pan is good to have as a place to put scissors into some acetone

roll of paper towels

work bench covered with some of the plastic you bought and more plastic on the floor underneath the bench.

ventilation for the workspace

*** if you are going to sand the cured fiberglass, you will probably want/need:

orbital sander with vacuum feature, 80 grit & 120 & maybe finer sandpapers

long sleeve buttoned shirt and long pants, head sock optional

shower facilities and a ladies facial scrubber (aka a "poof")

respirator for particles or a full face respirator, goggles

Well that is not the last word on the subject but it's a start.

Read first; understand. Then work slow, measure carefully, watch the temperature, keep the resin off of your skin, keep any sanded fiberglass out of your lungs and off of your skin.

Keep us posted!

Doug

 

[Trixter 10+ year member]

This may be "too much information", but here goes:
Resin can be grouped into three chemical families: polyester, vinylester & epoxy.

Polyester is the least expensive and easy to work with. Not as water resistant as the other two, nor as strong. However, for automotive audio work I think it is the best choice.

Epoxy is the most expensive and sensitive to work with and the strongest. It has the least moisture absorption making it desirable for underwater applications.

Vinylester comes in between polyester and epoxy in terms of cost, ease of use, strength and moisture absorption.

I'd recommend you take a look at http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/product_catalog.html

There are many other businesses that sell polyester and glass.

You will also need:

a basic fiberglassing book from the library

box (s) of nitrile gloves http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=nitrile&Submit=Go

acetone, gallon can (big box stores)

white vinegar (for cleaning your skin of resin)

plastic sheeting of the higher mil thickness (6 mil)

thermometer

possibly some beeswax or paste floor wax (no silicone) or mold release agent

mixing containers ( I like well washed small size cottage cheese containers) or you can spend for clean plastic containers

a large and small measuring device (from your resin provider)

fumed silica, or cellulose based thickener

1" or 2" chip brushes (harbor freight)

tongue depressors or special plastic stir sticks

a shallow pan is good to have as a place to put scissors into some acetone

roll of paper towels

work bench covered with some of the plastic you bought and more plastic on the floor underneath the bench.

ventilation for the workspace

*** if you are going to sand the cured fiberglass, you will probably want/need:

orbital sander with vacuum feature, 80 grit & 120 & maybe finer sandpapers

long sleeve buttoned shirt and long pants, head sock optional

shower facilities and a ladies facial scrubber (aka a "poof")

respirator for particles or a full face respirator, goggles

Well that is not the last word on the subject but it's a start.

Read first; understand. Then work slow, measure carefully, watch the temperature, keep the resin off of your skin, keep any sanded fiberglass out of your lungs and off of your skin.

Keep us posted!

Doug

dam...and i just mixed, soaked and poured.....

napa, or most auto body supply shops, will sell the resin and matting....about $30 for a gallon of resin and a good amount of matting.