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Where would one buy resin?
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<blockquote data-quote="dsiddens" data-source="post: 3680931" data-attributes="member: 583923"><p>This may be "too much information", but here goes:</p><p></p><p>Resin can be grouped into three chemical families: polyester, vinylester &amp; epoxy.</p><p></p><p>Polyester is the least expensive and easy to work with. Not as water resistant as the other two, nor as strong. However, for automotive audio work I think it is the best choice.</p><p></p><p>Epoxy is the most expensive and sensitive to work with and the strongest. It has the least moisture absorption making it desirable for underwater applications.</p><p></p><p>Vinylester comes in between polyester and epoxy in terms of cost, ease of use, strength and moisture absorption.</p><p></p><p>I'd recommend you take a look at <a href="http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/product_catalog.html" target="_blank">http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/product_catalog.html</a></p><p></p><p>There are many other businesses that sell polyester and glass.</p><p></p><p>You will also need:</p><p></p><p>a basic fiberglassing book from the library</p><p></p><p>box (s) of nitrile gloves <a href="http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=nitrile&amp;Submit=Go" target="_blank">http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=nitrile&amp;Submit=Go</a></p><p></p><p>acetone, gallon can (big box stores)</p><p></p><p>white vinegar (for cleaning your skin of resin)</p><p></p><p>plastic sheeting of the higher mil thickness (6 mil)</p><p></p><p>thermometer</p><p></p><p>possibly some beeswax or paste floor wax (no silicone) or mold release agent</p><p></p><p>mixing containers ( I like well washed small size cottage cheese containers) or you can spend for clean plastic containers</p><p></p><p>a large and small measuring device (from your resin provider)</p><p></p><p>fumed silica, or cellulose based thickener</p><p></p><p>1" or 2" chip brushes (harbor freight)</p><p></p><p>tongue depressors or special plastic stir sticks</p><p></p><p>a shallow pan is good to have as a place to put scissors into some acetone</p><p></p><p>roll of paper towels</p><p></p><p>work bench covered with some of the plastic you bought and more plastic on the floor underneath the bench.</p><p></p><p>ventilation for the workspace</p><p></p><p>*** if you are going to sand the cured fiberglass, you will probably want/need:</p><p></p><p>orbital sander with vacuum feature, 80 grit &amp; 120 &amp; maybe finer sandpapers</p><p></p><p>long sleeve buttoned shirt and long pants, head sock optional</p><p></p><p>shower facilities and a ladies facial scrubber (aka a "poof")</p><p></p><p>respirator for particles or a full face respirator, goggles</p><p></p><p>Well that is not the last word on the subject but it's a start.</p><p></p><p>Read first; understand. Then work slow, measure carefully, watch the temperature, keep the resin off of your skin, keep any sanded fiberglass out of your lungs and off of your skin.</p><p></p><p>Keep us posted!</p><p></p><p>Doug</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dsiddens, post: 3680931, member: 583923"] This may be "too much information", but here goes: Resin can be grouped into three chemical families: polyester, vinylester & epoxy. Polyester is the least expensive and easy to work with. Not as water resistant as the other two, nor as strong. However, for automotive audio work I think it is the best choice. Epoxy is the most expensive and sensitive to work with and the strongest. It has the least moisture absorption making it desirable for underwater applications. Vinylester comes in between polyester and epoxy in terms of cost, ease of use, strength and moisture absorption. I'd recommend you take a look at [URL="http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/product_catalog.html"]http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/product_catalog.html[/URL] There are many other businesses that sell polyester and glass. You will also need: a basic fiberglassing book from the library box (s) of nitrile gloves [URL="http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=nitrile&Submit=Go"]http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=nitrile&Submit=Go[/URL] acetone, gallon can (big box stores) white vinegar (for cleaning your skin of resin) plastic sheeting of the higher mil thickness (6 mil) thermometer possibly some beeswax or paste floor wax (no silicone) or mold release agent mixing containers ( I like well washed small size cottage cheese containers) or you can spend for clean plastic containers a large and small measuring device (from your resin provider) fumed silica, or cellulose based thickener 1" or 2" chip brushes (harbor freight) tongue depressors or special plastic stir sticks a shallow pan is good to have as a place to put scissors into some acetone roll of paper towels work bench covered with some of the plastic you bought and more plastic on the floor underneath the bench. ventilation for the workspace *** if you are going to sand the cured fiberglass, you will probably want/need: orbital sander with vacuum feature, 80 grit & 120 & maybe finer sandpapers long sleeve buttoned shirt and long pants, head sock optional shower facilities and a ladies facial scrubber (aka a "poof") respirator for particles or a full face respirator, goggles Well that is not the last word on the subject but it's a start. Read first; understand. Then work slow, measure carefully, watch the temperature, keep the resin off of your skin, keep any sanded fiberglass out of your lungs and off of your skin. Keep us posted! Doug [/QUOTE]
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