whats good/bad about 12" vs 15" subs...

g30ffr3y
10+ year member

soul destroyer
before i further upgrade my system i figured i would

ask what everyones opinions on sub size is...

i just figured 12" was a nice inbetween... but

what are the good and bad features of 12" vs 15"

subs...

ever on the quest to become more knowlegable...

 
Given that we are talking about the same series of subs:

15" Good:

Potential to get louder than the 12" version

15" Bad:

Needs a bigger box than the 12" version

Harder to fit in tight places as opposed to the 12" version because if it's bigger size and bigger box

12" Good:

Smaller box requirements

Can fit into tighter places because of it's smaller size and smaller box

12" Bad:

The 15" has the potential to get louder

 
im not hating on JL at all...

for the price i paid for my W3v2's

i am very happy...

but then again i got them

for practically half price...

if i could get brand new

JL W6v2's for half price i

probably wouldnt even

ask this many questions...

so squeak... really all you get with a 15" is potential to

get louder and it takes up more space???

i was thinking that a 15" would help me get that rolling

bassline dub-e-dub feeling better off my cheesy BPM

techno XM station...

but i dont really claim to know anything...

 
Well.....if you want to get into the nity-grity; As a sub (or any speaker for that matter) excurts farther, it's distortion increases. So, if you play both subs at a volume level that is near the "limits" of the 12" sub, the 15" sub should be a little "cleaner" since it is able to play at the same volume level of the 12" sub with less effort (less excursion because it has more cone displacement). Now, if this difference is audible, it is hard to say..............and it's also assuming a lot of things. But, it's nice in theory //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

WTF is "dub-e-dub"??

 
Well.....if you want to get into the nity-grity; As a sub (or any speaker for that matter) excurts farther, it's distortion increases. So, if you play both subs at a volume level that is near the "limits" of the 12" sub, the 15" sub should be a little "cleaner" since it is able to play at the same volume level of the 12" sub with less effort (less excursion because it has more cone displacement). Now, if this difference is audible, it is hard to say..............and it's also assuming a lot of things. But, it's nice in theory //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

WTF is "dub-e-dub"??

like rolling octave bass lines... i couldve written it

doobeedoobeedoobee i suppose... youve got to

know what i mean... hrmm...

to write a bassline like that on a synth you would

play say an E and then while still holding the first

E play a higher E and once the second E played let

go of the lower E so its got a smooth transition and

the sound never drops out...

grrr... if this makes any sense... its all over remixes

and bubble gum techno... and delerium and front line

assembly as well as the sort of stabbing westward type

bands i listen to...

now back to the 15"s... what your saying is that 15"s would

not necessarily help me achieve this effect unless there was

a limit from power/volume that came into play...???

thinking that im almost there with my 300watt W3v2's

and if i do make the jump would go to 600watt RE SE's

i dont think power would come into play...

would you suggest keeping with the 12"s then???

btw... dub-e-dub is also a ultra cheesy dance song on

dance dance revolution for playstation...

 
There are many factors to consider when deciding on what sub size to go with. The most obvious ones are cost, power available, enclosure size limits and of course personal preference. But, one most people seem to forget is that you also want to blend you subs in with your front stage. Someone with a powerful (loud) front stage could probably handle the added output of 15's without drowning out the front stage too much, whereas someone whose front stage consists of dash mounted 4x6's would probably have problems matching outputs. Also, the frequency response of a driver is affected by its cone area as well. Not only will a 15 play louder than a 12, it also tends to have more authority in the lower octaves (due to more cone area making it easier to play lower notes due to the increased output). A front stage with 8" midbass drivers, for example, again would be more likely to blend well with larger subs (15's) than would a front stage with 4x6 or even 5-1/4 midbass/midrange drivers, because the 8" midbass drivers could run lower, allowing you to run the highpass on the 15's lower and keep the sub in its lowest octaves where its happy.

 
my interior is all factory... i dont ever plan on amping

the interiors... heck... unless i blow out a speaker

i probably wouldnt ever even swap out the

speakers...

another point for the 12" i guess...

the authority at lower levels the only real plus...

do you sacrifice the higher end of the low end then???

*meaning... do the 12" handle the non super low bass better*

 
Generally when you go to smaller sized drivers, their output range (in frequency) does extend higher. But whether or not going from a 15 to a 12 makes an audible difference in the freq range a subwoofer would play at is debateable. And just keep in mind, a subwoofer's job is to play the lowest freqs. Midbass drivers handle the range just above the sub (approx 80hz+). If you want better midbass response, look at your midbass/midrange drivers, dont subject your subs to criteria they aren't designed to meet.

 
Generally when you go to smaller sized drivers, their output range (in frequency) does extend higher. But whether or not going from a 15 to a 12 makes an audible difference in the freq range a subwoofer would play at is debateable. And just keep in mind, a subwoofer's job is to play the lowest freqs. Midbass drivers handle the range just above the sub (approx 80hz+). If you want better midbass response, look at your midbass/midrange drivers, dont subject your subs to criteria they aren't designed to meet.


you seem very pro-15"... do you have 15" ??? ive never even

heard a 15" in a car... only in my friends minivan... and it sounded

like mega crap...

 
I have a pair of XXX 15's. Not installed yet. I also own 12's and 10's that Ive run (not XXX's //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif). Ive never run 8's for subs, but I built a friend's system with 8's. I am not pro 15, I am pro matching up components so the end user is happy. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Honestly, running all your other speakers stock, 15's will drown out your other drivers. 12's probably will too. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif But some people like very bass heavy music, so to each their own. Good luck with your project. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

edit: if your friend's system sounded bad, it was most likely due to installation quality (or lack there of), design flaws (like a bad enclosure size/type), poor quality equipment, or all three. It wasn't simply due to the size of the cone.

 
"more authority in the lower freqs" ? Not to argue, buy my IDMAX 12 @ 28hz has quite the authority down low //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
"more authority in the lower freqs" ? Not to argue, buy my IDMAX 12 @ 28hz has quite the authority down low //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
But have you ever heard a 15" IDMax to compare it against //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif He didn't say it would have a "lacking" low frequency output.

 
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g30ffr3y

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