what would i have to do to my electrical to be ready for a memphis 4k

woodels420
10+ year member

the man
so this might be a dumb question to ask.what would i have to do to my electrical system to be ready for a memphis 4k.i have a kinetik 2400 and a yellow top,but i am only runing at just under 13volts when i am bumping.i just dont want to buy a amp that costs 525 and then blow it right away.i am going to be runing my mach 5 spl 15" of it.sorry to sound like a noob.any suggestions will help me make my mind up on what i get.

 
Your better off getting more batteries IMO.Yes you will need a bigger alt down the road to get suffencient charging for the batts.But I think multiple batts help more then a big alt and just a few batteries.On 12v with 1 4k I would do at least 3-4 batteries in the back in addition to the one under the hood.

The big 3 in 1/0 is a must and I would run 2 runs of 1/0 positive to the rear.As long as you do a good frame ground you shouldn't need a run of negitive to the back.It didn't gain me any but it may in your case.

Lastly get you a voltage gauge for your dash so you can see your voltage,and make sure to take get the power for it directly from the amp not from under the hood or from the remote wire.You may get false readings.

Hope this helps.

 
Your better off getting more batteries IMO.Yes you will need a bigger alt down the road to get suffencient charging for the batts.But I think multiple batts help more then a big alt and just a few batteries.On 12v with 1 4k I would do at least 3-4 batteries in the back in addition to the one under the hood.The big 3 in 1/0 is a must and I would run 2 runs of 1/0 positive to the rear.As long as you do a good frame ground you shouldn't need a run of negitive to the back.It didn't gain me any but it may in your case.

Lastly get you a voltage gauge for your dash so you can see your voltage,and make sure to take get the power for it directly from the amp not from under the hood or from the remote wire.You may get false readings.

Hope this helps.
exactly what I would have said, too many people that compete only, always say it is a must to do + AND - runs to the rear and in 20 yrs I never have and never had a voltage issue in my life.

it isn't a bad idea to do it, but it isn't a must and like you said, most of the time it affects nothing with very good grounds. I'd rather do 2 small runs at the rear for the ground vs running 1 20ft run from the front to the rear.

 
Well thanks for the advice.im going to think about what way I want to do this.I have a volt meter built in my dash already.with just the batterys I have it sits at 13.1 and doesn't drop lower than 12.3 when im bumping but that's on only 2000rms.so u guys say I should run another run of zero gauge to just the batterys in the back,and another run just to the amp right.

 
What I am saying is 2 runs of positive 1/0 wire from the alt to a fuse block under the hood with ANL fuses.Then from there continue those 2 runs to the back battery bank.Just ground the back bank to the from making a good connection,grinding to bare metal on an area were there is frame rail underneath.

Don't froget about the Big 3 as well.

 
Quick 1/2 related unintentional threadjack.

I'm slightly confused on the alternator running this whole thing, and I'm happy with the battery explanation.

Would the same thing be needed minimum to run an AB VFL 400.1? If not, this is what I am working on. I am possibly thinking about running a second amp as well.

200A alt, redtop up front.

2 135AH batts, and rated slightly higher discharge rating and capacity than PM D3100

3 runs of 4/0 from the batteries to the amp(s), 2 runs from front alt to the back.

Would this be sufficient?

 
With 4000wrms he's gonna need a alt. No matter how many batts he's got , the stock alt won't beable to charge them all.

I guess u could to the upgrades and see what voltage drops u get, than go from there, to choose what size alt. I say ur gonna need one either way.

 
I'll run another run of 0 guage or 2/0 guage. make sure to do your ground the same size and I'll get an alternator. I rather buy a 15 pound alternator than add a 80 pound battery in the back. More weight=less gas milage. I say aleast a 250 with a high idle.

 
A stock alt will charge all the batteries.Most newer vehicles have pretty decent current output and are suffecient enough to charge a few batteries without any problems.As long as the vehicle is driven on a regular basis and not just short runs there should be no problem.

BUT as I stated you WILL want to upgrade it in the future.

 
k.so i need 2 fuse blocks under my hood after the first battery right.sorry to sound like a noob.i just want to make sure i have this right.run two runs of zero gauge from the alt to the fron battery then contiue them both into a fuse block then to the back batterys.then 1 run from the back battery's to the amp with a fuse inbetween the back batts and the amp right.plus i know i need to do the big three to.

 
When you do the big 3 you will run a piece of 1/0 from the alt to the battery,some people chose to fuse this I don not.That will be the charging wire for the front battery.Now in addition to the 1/0 for the big 3 you also connect 2 more pieces of 1/0 and run thos to a fused ANL disturibution block/blocks,which eer you can get.Then from those you run 2 runs of 1/0 to the back batteries and connect them.Ground to the frame in the back like I said earlier.

When making connections to the amp again some peolpe chose to fuse and some don't.I would do it just incase.

 
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